Follow Us!
-
Review: Steinhart Ocean Vintage Military
21 Mar 2012 by w&w in Featured, Review / 49 Comments
The Ocean line by Steinhart is a group of Rolex homage divers. There are various models that cover everything from GMT Masters, to Sea Dwellers to a particularly well-done Explorer II 1655 (the Steve McQueen model), but the bulk of the Ocean series are Submariner homages. Of the plethora of models Steinhart makes, the Ocean Vintage Military really stands out as a unique offering. This is because the OVM refers to a very specific, rare and interesting model of the Rolex Submariner, the ref. 5517 Mil-Sub. The 5517 was a military issue Submariner for the British Royal Navy in the early 70’s. As a non-civilian model, it had some special design details that make it truly unique in the Sub family. The two most noticeable differences are in the hands and bezel insert. The 5517 lacks the iconic Mercedes hour hand and instead has a broad and stubby sword hand, and the bezel insert has individual minute markers going all around the bezel, rather than just from 0-15. The other more subtle details are a capital T in a circle on the lower half of the dial, indicating that the watch contained Tritium, fixed lug bars for use with nylon straps and unique serial numbers.
Case: Stainless Steel
Movement: ETA 2824-2 25 Jewel Automatic
Dial: Black
Lume: Old Rhadium (Super Luminova)
Lens: Domed Sapphire with Double Internal AR
Case Back: Screwdown
Strap: Stainless Steel Bracelet
Water Res.: 300m
Dimensions: 42mm, 50mm lug-to-lug
Thickness: 13mm
Lug Width: 22mm
Crown: 7mm screwdown
Warranty: 2 yearOne could imagine given the popularity of vintage Submariners, original 5517’s are highly sought after, ultra-rare grails within the group. Considering around 1000 were ever issued, and they are legitimately parts of Naval and watch making history, it is not surprising that they go for around 100k at auction. This leaves most of us with little to no hope of ever owning one. Of course, there are a lot of watches that the same could be said for, the problem is that this one is really great looking. It takes the classic Bond-approved styling of the Submariner and tacks on some sportier and more aggressive features designed to maximize visibility for military usage. So, when the OVM first came to my attention I knew I had to have it. It takes the historical looks of the 5517, some contemporary features like a 42mm case, and combines them into a very affordable and damn great looking package. This is not to say that I don’t like the other Ocean watches, far from it, but being able wear a watch I’ll never own, in a matter of speaking, is very appealing to me.
That being said, the OVM is not just a beautifully executed and drop-dead gorgeous 5517 homage; it’s probably the best deal on a great watch you can get. At around $400 (price might fluctuate do to currency exchange rates) you are getting a terrifically built watch with an ETA 2824-2 25 jewel automatic movement, a domed sapphire crystal with double AR internal coating, a good quality oyster-style steel bracelet and generally superb finishing all around. Simply put, you wont be able to find a better deal on a Swiss made watch with these features. With that in mind, if you are looking to get a watch with an ETA movement now is the time to do it. It’s hard to say exactly what the future holds for brands like Steinhart with the ETA withdrawal, so considering the price tag and value here, I’d highly recommend one.
And now, on to the watch… The case of the OVM is stainless steel with a brushed finish on the top surface and polished sides. It measures 42mm without the crown, 50mm lug to lug and has 22mm lug width. This makes the OVM larger and bulkier than a true Sub, but it still sits in that very comfortable medium sized watch range. The classically shaped case has slab sides and a fairly flat profile. The most predominate formal feature of the case are the large triangular lugs and crown guard, but neither really draw to much attention. The case design is ultimately very functional and leaves the visual weight of the watch to the bezel and dial. The watch has a solid steel screw down case back with small lettering etched around its perimeter with various details. In the center of the case back is a large and amusing etching of either a Trojan (I think) soldier or more likely Neptune with a trident riding in a chariot pulled by a giant seahorse. The etching is just a silhouette, but it’s a nice touch.
The crown of the OVM is screw-down and measures 7mm by 4mm. The design is simple, but well executed with an easy to grasp texture over most of it. The Steinhart “S with a crown” logo it deeply etched in the side of the crown, which is a detail I appreciate. It threads very easily and has a secure feel to it; it also winds the movement with a very smooth sensation. All in all, it’s simply a well-made crown.The bezel of the OVM is one of the most standout features of the watch. Not only is it a visual centerpiece of the design, it is very well made and features a high-quality mechanism. The style of the bezel, as I mentioned earlier, is directly from the 5517. The markings are unlumed metal, which gives them a nice sheen that matches with the case. The index is comprised of a triangle at 0/60 small marks for the individual minutes, larger rectangles for 5, 15, 25, 35, 45 and 55 and numerals for 10, 20, etc… The use of individual markers for every minute gives the bezel a busier look than the typical Sub styled bezel, but it isn’t overwhelming. In fact, the added markers increase the sportiness of the watch in a welcomed way. There is also an applied lume dot on the 0/60 triangle, which is the only glowing point on the bezel, and a general detail of Submariners I like a lot.
The edge of the bezel has a scalloped grip that is easy to grasp and stays true to the Mil-Sub look. Turning the bezel is a genuine pleasure that reassures me of this purchase every time I hear it click. The mechanism has substantial resistance to it and certainly wont budge without intentional force, but is not so stiff as to be impractical. And when you turn it, the snap of the bezel locking into place is genuinely sublime; it’s actually loud.
One of the great high-value details of the watch is the domed sapphire crystal that Steinhart has chosen. The shape of the crystal is very interesting; it has a subtle but noticeable dome to it and fairly substantial bevel at the outer edge. There is absolutely no distortion of the face across the main span of the dome no matter the viewing angle, and then a fairly pronounced distortion under the bevel. This however does not affect the legibility of the dial at all, as all of the critical markings are within the diameter of the dome. The sapphire also has an internal anti-reflective coating that aids in the legibility, and occasional throws off a nice blue reflection. Having a sapphire like this is an undeniably great feature, as it provides high-scratch and shatter resistance as well as great clarity. While a domed acrylic crystal, like that of the Helson Skin Diver, might have been more authentic to the 5517, the sapphire is great contemporary addition.
The dial of the 5517 is referred to as a “Maxi Dial”, which means that the geometric markings that define the Submariner dial are bolder than on other models. Steinhart stayed true to this and actually uses non-maxi dials on other models, like the Ocean 1 Vintage Red. The dial of the OVM is, not surprisingly, very well made. The markings are very sharp, the black of the dial is dense and matte and the printing of any text is very crisp. On the outer edge of the dial is an index of small lines in white for the individual minutes, with slightly bolder lines at an interval of 5. The primary index is applied with “Old Rhadium” lume, which has a pale peach color. There is large triangle and twelve, large circles for 1, 2, 4, 5, 7, 8, 10 and 11 and rectangles for 3, 6 and 9, which comprise the typical Submariner layout.There is a Steinhart logo on the upper half of the dial, a 1 in a circle, 660ft = 200m and automatic on the lower half of the dial. The 1 in the circle is the OVM’s way of add the tritium indicator to the dial, and I think this was a clever way to do it. I doubt that legally they could have used the T in a circle, but the 1 in a circle looks very similar and refers back to the “Ocean 1” line, which the OVM is part of. The 660ft = 200m is what the dial of the 5517 read…but here’s the thing, the OVM is a 300m watch, as it clearly says on the back of the case. I think this is sort of silly thing for them to have done. Of all the details to be 100% loyal to, I don’t think this was the one to go for. I mean, there could be an option for the watch with an acrylic dome and no bracelet, which would be more impactful visual details, though the watch is still great with a sapphire and a bracelet. That being said, it doesn’t affect anything and no one will ever notice.
The peach color of the lume really makes the marking jump off of the dial and have outstanding readability. The lume itself does not glow peach, but rather a pale green, and while of decent strength, is not best lume I’ve seen by any stretch. In fact, I find the peach color does a better job of being almost a day-glo color than normal lume green. The “Old Rhadium” lume, which we also saw on the C. Ward C8 pilot, is meant to add a false patina to the watch. If you look at pictures of 5517s you’ll see that the lume on them has aged to be this same color. While I think the idea of a false patina is kind of ridiculous, the lume adds an interesting dimension to the look of the watch, as it is a warm color. This really opens up strap options, as you’ll see later on in the post. The hands of the watch are sword style and also filled with this lume. The fat hour hand is a great visual detail to this watch that is not only authentic; it adds that military look that separates the Mil-Sub from the civilian models.
The OVM comes standard with an Oyster style brushed steel bracelet. I have to say; I am surprised by how much I like it. First off, it’s simply well made, well finished and comfortable. The bracelet arrives with all links intact, making it very large out of the box. Steinhart chose a bracelet with screw bars holding together several of the links, making adjusting the bracelet very easy. I think this is a great feature, especially on a watch in this price range, as it allows easy changing by someone without a set of watch tools or local jeweler. The brushed top surface matches seamlessly with the case, and gives the watch a dressy and masculine appearance. At first I thought, this will be a great option for occasions where I want a more refined look for the watch, like if I were wearing a suit for example. But I’ve found myself wearing it with the bracelet on a much more regular basis than that. It’s just easy to wear and looks great… I still can’t believe this came with a $400 dollar watch.
That all being said, the right look for a Mil-Sub is on a NATO strap. So, I went out (by which I mean browsed the internet) and bought 3 straps that I have been regularly rotating on the watch. The great things about NATOs is that they are both cheap and interchangeable, and with a watch like this, you are going to find you want to wear it all the time, as such, having different color combinations to use with it make endlessly more versatile. The first NATO I got for it was a brown/khaki Maratac. The brown has a distinct “camo” aesthetic that clearly suits the styling of the watch and matches well with the warmth of the “Old Rhadium” lume. The next one I bought was a vintage leather NATO from panatime. They call it vintage, because it has a surface finish that has a somewhat random texture. Once again, it doesn’t actually look old or have an authentic patina. What it does have is a beautiful rich leather color with a strong orange undertone. The leather itself is also very soft and high quality. On the OVM the leather adds a more stylized and fashionable aesthetic to the watch. It plays well off of the lume. This option looks killer with blue jeans and brown work boots. The third NATO I picked up was a blue-steel grey model from Strapcode. I got this one simply because of this photo of an actual 5517 on a similarly colored strap, which makes me drool. The blue in the grey makes the lume jump out. This is just beautiful color combination that can be worn with anything.
The Steinhart Ocean Vintage Military is a truly stupendous watch that is worth every cent you pay for it, and probably a few more too. It looks great, it wears great, it is built to last out of high quality components and it is a remarkable bargain. Seriously, there is nothing else out there for $400 dollars that can compete with this, making this probably the best value in a watch we’ve come across. Steinhart really is an anomaly and I recommend taking advantage of their great prices…you never know when things might change. If you like the aesthetic of the 5517 Mil-Sub and don’t have spare 100k to drop on an original, then you will be happy with this purchase. There are only two problems with it… I never seem to want to take it off, and now that I know how great Steinharts are I want to get another, and that Ocean Vintage GMT is starting to look mighty tempting.
Thanks for reading and enjoy the gallery!
by Zach Weiss
Related posts:
-
-
-
Advertisements
-
-
49 Comments
Sean
Beautiful watch! Definitely have my eye on one… Just asking, did you get it directly from Steinhart? I have read many a story about their customer service. Did you have any issue?
21 Mar 2012 07:03 pm
Scott
After reading your original survey on submariners, I ordered this directly from Steinhart. It took several weeks for them to reply with shipping confirmation, but it was certainly worth the wait.
I wear mine on an "Admiralty Grey" Nato from corvuswatch- that particular strap is made by Phoenix in the UK, who is an official supplier to the Ministry of Defense, and supposedly supplied the same color straps provided on the original 5517 Mil Subs. Indeed, the strap in your photo of an actual Rolex Mil Sub looks to be the Phoenix Admiralty Grey strap.
A fantastic watch- thank you for your review and pointing me to this! love the site!
22 Mar 2012 01:03 am
w&w
Hi Sean,
Thanks for the question. I had the exact same experience as Scott (next comment) did. These watches seem to be amongst their most popular, so there is a bit of a wait time. Steinhart isn't the most communicative about it. but in the end, you'll get your watch and be happy.
Blake recently purchased a different model (soon to be on the site) and he had great customer service.
-Zach
22 Mar 2012 09:03 am
Peter
Hello Zach,
I had been eying this watch for about 2 months. Pulled the trigger last Friday. Gnomon sent out the watch on Monday to the US, and by Wed afternoon (yesterday) it was sitting on my wrist! Your review is both thoughtful and spot on. This watch just straight out represents tremendous value. Build quality is phenomenal. FIrst day out of the box I was minus -2 seconds! Keep in mind that the ETA movement on the OVM was reported to me (by the folks at Steinhart) to be the elabore grade. I really could not be happier! Thanks again for the great review!
Regards,
Peter
22 Mar 2012 07:03 pm
w&w
Hi Peter,
Thanks for pointing out that they are available from Gnomon as well...and I didn't know they were elabore grade! That's just another fantastic perk to this watch.
-Zach
22 Mar 2012 09:03 pm
Lance
Hi Peter,
Did you get tagged with any FedEX or Customs duties when this watch arrived?
Thanks,
LDV
13 Apr 2012 12:04 pm
Van
Hi Zach
Great review, thank you.
Could I ask you what tool you used to adjust/remove the links with on the braclet.
Cheers.
26 Mar 2012 07:03 am
w&w
Hi Van,
A small flathead screwdriver will work.
Something like this:
Set of 5 Pieces Precision Screwdrivers for Watch Repair
27 Mar 2012 02:03 am
Dave
Mine arrived today. Thanks for the review, it was what finally convinced me to pick one up. So, glad I did too. Beautiful high quality watch. Links were really easy to adjust with eyeglass screwdrivers. I have ordered a leather strap for it too. Curious to see how that will look.
Anyway keep up the great reviews. I have picked a few watches up after finding your site. Nice to see reviews of watches I can actually afford:)
30 Mar 2012 11:03 am
maique madeira
great review, and great photos too.
i’ve been thinking about this one for quite some time now, and you’ve just made my decision so much easier.
thanks.
31 Mar 2012 10:03 am
Neverok
Great review of an awesome watch with some very enjoyable photos. I have owned the GMT diver which was very well constructed. The only gripe I have with the divers series, is the lack of a divers clasp/extension. Not a deal breaker, but it would be useful and in keeping with the style and also, a nice tapering 20 mm bracelet would add and to my mind, complete the series.
All the best
02 Apr 2012 12:04 am
John L
I have to agree, I just got mine based largely on this review and I don’t think there are many watches with the value ratio so high. I definitely prefer it over the run of the mill Submariner clones…
12 Apr 2012 11:04 pm
Mike
I just wanted to let you know this article made a watch guy out of me. I will be ordering this to start my affordable collection. Thanks, you have a wonderful site!
15 Apr 2012 10:04 am
w&w
Hi Mike,
I don't know if there is any greater compliment!
Thanks!
-Zach
22 Apr 2012 03:04 pm
Peter
Hello Lance,
Sorry for the late reply….no added fees…..straight up $40 UPS expedited…that was it. Have had for about a month now … +16 seconds…….wow!
Peter
20 Apr 2012 08:04 pm
Patrick
Thanks for all your great coverage, fellas. You’re my favorite watch resource out there. One question here: The brown leather NATO that appears in some of the photos on this Steinhart—of what make is it and where can I find one?
Thanks again.
29 Apr 2012 09:04 am
w&w
Hi Patrick,
Thanks for the kind words, you find that strap at panatime.
Best,
Zach
29 Apr 2012 10:04 am
cold
Thanks for the excellent review. Can you please link directly to the panatime vintage leather strap you showed? The one on their site I found looks darker.
08 May 2012 12:05 am
cold
Damn you answered it right above this comment! Sorry :)
08 May 2012 12:05 am
Ken
Where did you find that blue-steel strap from Strapcode? I couldn’t locate it…you are right, it is a fantastic look
08 May 2012 12:05 pm
w&w
Hi Ken,
The link in the second to last paragraph should get you there, but also check out corvus who apparently sell the real mil-spec strap
Best,
Zach
08 May 2012 09:05 pm
Mick
Great site and Review of a great watch, after watching this review about 40 times lol and the rest of yours, iv just had mine come in the post and its the dogs!!!! now to get it some new straps
Thank you W&W for your help in making my mind up
Keep the good work up
A T B Mick
25 May 2012 05:05 am (@Twitter)
jc
Thanks for the great review. I have a question about the blue-steel strap from Strapcode. Your strap looks like the finish is stainless but the link on strapcode.com is to a brushed version. Did you buy the brushed version of the strap? That combination is my favorite. Thanks.
05 Jun 2012 10:06 am (@Twitter)
w&w
Hi JC,
Yes, I got the brushed version, which matches the case of the OVM. It's a great combo.
-Zach
09 Jun 2012 03:06 pm (@Twitter)
Mike
Just got my OVM today and immediately put it on the Corvus Admiralty Grey nato. The strap varies wildly from a light smoky blue to a dark blueish-grey, depending on the light. I think that accounts for everyone on the forums debating what color Admiralty Grey actually is.
Here is a wrist shot: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/1003/Siberian/photo.jpg
18 Jun 2012 10:06 pm (@Twitter)
Rob
Your great review put me over the edge and now I have one on order.
Thanks for such a thorough and thoughtful review on such a beautiful watch. Great photography too.
24 Jun 2012 12:06 am (@Twitter)
Chris
Just pre-ordered mine, can’t wait! Thanks for the review.
26 Jul 2012 01:07 am (@cgsnow)
Eddie
great review as allways
just can not find that brown leather strap on panatime site
14 Oct 2012 02:10 pm (@Twitter)
w&w
Hi Eddie,
Here is a direct link: http://www.panatime.com/nelibrvisole1.html
14 Oct 2012 09:10 pm (@Twitter)
John
This review nailed it for me and made me gamble on a Steimhart. I’ve had my Steinhat OVM for 3 weeks now and its perfect! I can’t seem to take it off my wrist. It’s so weird because my other watches are now just gathering dust lol .
The Steinhart Vintage GMT also looks like it may be a target on the horizon too. Any chance of a review on that one guys???
The weird thing is, I was never really a “Rolex Guy”, I actually had a disdain for the brand. Now that I have this watch I see them in a whole new light. Yes they are IMO over priced but…..it’s the aesthetics, it’s something about the form vs function that I can now see that I never really did before. I think only by owning and review and reading about all the other watches out there that one begins to see this. What I love about Steinhart is that whilst I will never be able to aquire a Rolex 5517 the OVM let’s me have a very good taste and feel for what it is and at the same time paying a great tribute to Rolex watches. I would like to save up for a used Rolex GMT someday but until then I will enjoy the OVM and may get another for Xmas…the GMT (Steve Mc’Queen), that’s if you guys can get your hands on one and do another stellar review
16 Oct 2012 07:10 am (@Twitter)
Eddie
Sold out damn, just when I was ready to order it
21 Oct 2012 08:10 pm (@Twitter)
Tyler
Try watchrecon they seem to always have things available.
21 Oct 2012 11:10 pm (@Twitter)
Eddie
Thanks Tyler,
just placed order the black DLC instead.
cant wait
22 Oct 2012 11:10 pm (@Twitter)
david
Is this one ? http://www.panatime.com/nelibrvisole1.html it look more brown than orange
31 Oct 2012 03:10 pm (@Twitter)
Rick
I’ve bought one for my birthday and I own it for over a month now. The watch is outstanding and exactly like you described.
I’m wearing it with a rubber black strap now, its very comfortable and goodlooking.
After graduating I’m buying the Graf Zeppelin.
Thank you for the excellent reviews W&W!
21 Nov 2012 06:11 am (@Twitter)
Jordan
Great review! Just for a point of reference, how big is your wrist Zach?
24 Nov 2012 03:11 pm (@Twitter)
w&w
Hi Jordan,
My wrist is around 7"
best,
Zach
08 Dec 2012 04:12 pm (@Twitter)
produktvideo
Hi,
thanks great review! I just ordered the black version!
best regards from berlin
24 Nov 2012 07:11 pm (@film-connexion)
scott
this may be a dumb question, but is this watch a hand-wound watch, or automatic? i’m inches away from pulling the trigger on this lovely steinhart ocean vintage, and i would be wearing this watch daily, but i wanted to know if i would be needing to wind it everyday. cheers,
scott
04 Jan 2013 03:01 am (@Twitter)
w&w
no worries. The watch is powered by the industry standard automatic movement, the ETA 2824-2. So, no daily hand winding to worry about.
best,
Zach
04 Jan 2013 11:01 am
Richard Ralph
Hi Zach,
thanks for the excellent review and video.
I’ve been surfing the net for about a month looking for a decent mechanical watch with a couple of Steinhart divers on my (very long) short list and came across the article above.
Finally pulled the trigger an placed an order last night and looking forward to seeing my OVM in March,
cheers,
Richard
12 Feb 2013 09:02 am (@Twitter)
Al
after reading your great review I’m 99% convinced to buy this watch, albeit there are some minor issues that almost break the deal for me (the most important being the awful “200m” sign on the dial, but ultimately I almost decided I can live with it.
I’m planning to put it on a nato strap as soon as I get it, thus I was wondering if the grey strap you’re talking about is this one
http://www.strapcode.com/store/nato-22mm-heat-sealed-heavy-nylon-brushed-buckle-military-grey-p-802.html
it looks a completely different color than in your pics, though
anyhow, thanks for showing me a great piece of machinery, sir!
19 Feb 2013 03:02 am (@Twitter)
w&w
Hey Al,
yeah, that's the strap...another option is the "admiralty grey" NATO by Phoenix, which used to be available from Corvus...but now they seem a bit hard to track down.
19 Feb 2013 02:02 pm
Al
you should ask a percentage to both Steinhart and Phoenix, since I capitulated and ordered both. For those living in Europe (like me), Phoenix straps are directly available from the company thru its ebay store (user mickie500). Too bad Phoenix straps are only available with polished buckles. Can’t wait to get my hands on the combo.
27 Feb 2013 09:02 am
Micah
Hey w&w, awesome review! I’ve aways liked Steinharts. How do you think, the OVM go up against C. Ward’s C60 Tridents?
01 Apr 2013 04:04 am
Ceasuri de Mana
Great review, and for that price it’s a bargain.
13 May 2013 05:05 pm
Leave a Comment