Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro Review

We’ve reviewed many Christopher Ward watches since we started worn&wound, but somehow we’ve never reviewed one of their most popular models; the C60 Trident Pro (please note this model is no longer in production). Well, it’s time to correct that. This watch is not just exceedingly popular because of its classic diver looks, it’s also because it offers a tremendous value that few other watches can compete with. Swiss made, Selitta SW200 movement, 4mm thick sapphire crystal make this $535-$635, strap option depending, a great deal.

Christopher Ward doesn’t dance around the inspiration of the Trident line with language like “based on a certain famous watch” they go straight for it, saying that the watch takes its cues from the 1954 Rolex GMT Master. This is clearer in the C60 Trident GMT models, as they have GMT hands and a similar bezel (though the iconic “pepsi” version seems to have been discontinued). The 3-hand model we are looking at today has more similarities to the Submariner, but in both cases C Ward has done a great job of taking elements of those watches, mixing them with new and different ideas, to create a unique line. These aren’t homage watches in the traditional sense, just historically inspired.

The C60 has been around for a while and now comes in many different styles and colors, from hot orange to COSC certified to a newly released 38mm version. Though perhaps the most classic version would be that with a black bezel, for the sake of looking at something different, we went with the khaki version on NATO…and boy are we glad we did. Subtle details tend to be the most important, and the perfectly tuned olive green used in the bezel really took the style of this watch someplace unique.

Case

The case of the C60 is simple and clean with sharp edges and an overall unique design. Measuring 42 x 50 x 13mm with 22mm, the C60 is medium sized and fairly thin, especially for a watch with a 4mm sapphire crystal. From over head, the lines flow very smoothly from the nicely proportioned lugs to the crown guards and back again. From the side, the elegant shape is even clearer. The central case is kept fairly thin through out, giving it a svelte profile. One little detail I quite like is how the lugs have a blunted edge that cuts back underneath the case. This doesn’t do anything special, it just looks nice, finishing off the shape of the case well.

At 3 is a 6 x 5mm screw down crown that while a bit narrow, has a nice length making it easy to grasp. Proportionally, it works with the case design, especially since it is flanked by crown guards that add visual weight. The crown itself is simple, but well detailed with coin edging and a small C Ward logo on its end.

The case back lacks the usual details one finds on divers and instead has a single large emblem. The emblem contains a deeply etched trident over a pattern of waves with the word “Deus Maris Altum” (god of the high seas) inscribed around it. Otherwise, it simple states Swiss made, and leaves the rest of the details to the dial. The emblem is nice looking and well executed, though I couldn’t help but think the back felt a little empty.

The bezel of the C60 has a very classic design. It’s fairly thin, with a slight incline towards the surface of the crystal. Around the edge is some coining that provides needed grip. The bezel itself has a 120-click uni-directional mechanism that has a decent feel. It snaps accurately into place, though it does have a bit of back-play. The insert is beautiful, but we’ll get to that later.

Overall, the case has simple, but well executed finishing. The top surface is entirely polished, giving the watch a bit of glitz, while the sides are brushed to a satin finish. The edges all around are very crisp, which speaks to the overall manufacturing quality. It’s a sturdy and well-built case that feels like it can take a bump or two, and with the 300M water resistance, could definitely be used in an active environment.

Dial

As said before, the dial design of the C60 Trident Pro borrows from Rolex GMT Masters and Submariners, but adds some unique elements, giving it a distinct personality. Starting with the primary index, you have a series of applied rectangles at 3, 6, 9 and 12 and circles for the other hours. This gives the dial an immediate Sub-look, but the proportions of the circles and rectangles are quite different. There is also a double rectangle at 12, rather than the usual triangle. The applied markers are very nicely executed, each having a bit of polished steel around a white center that catches light nicely.

Around the very perimeter of the dial is a seconds/minutes index with small white hash marks. The lines are printed to a precision of 1/5th a second, which ties into the sweep of the seconds hand. Every 5 minutes is a small lume dot, which gives it a sort of vintage tritium dot look. One detail here that stands out is how the rectangular markers of the dial break into this index, giving the dial a bit of a crosshair look. I happen to like how this off sets the circular markers, which are further in towards the center.

The most interesting facet of the design, one that really distinguishes this watch and gives it a unique presence, is the pattern on the face itself. Instead of being a flat matte black, the dial has a series of wavy lines covering it. This bit of texture plays with light very nicely, and adds a bit of depth and intrigue to the dial. This is a level of detailing you don’t find too often in this price range, so it’s a real value adder. It’s also simply very attractive.

The bezel insert also adds some unique flavor to the watch. It’s an aluminum insert with markings that are reminiscent of Submariners, with long lines and numerals alternating. The first fifteen minutes is broken down to just lines every five and small dots for the minutes in between. Since it is an aluminum insert, the markers are actually gaps through the color showing the metal underneath. At 0/60 is a triangular marker with a molded lume pearl or pip.

The greatest feature here is the olive green “khaki” color (khaki in England and the US are defined a bit differently, it would seem). It’s not a color that I’ve ever seen used on a watch bezel before, and it’s truly gorgeous. It’s a dark green with bronzy undertones that looks like it was selected from a cutting of camo. It works beautifully with the dial underneath and adds an edge to the overall aesthetic that wouldn’t otherwise be there.

At just past 4 is a rectangular date window showing the black on white date. The window has a metal border, which gives it a similar look to one of the applied markers while also emphasizing it more. I find the implementation of the date to be pretty disruptive to the dial. On Subs and GMTs, the date is always at 3. While I understand wanting to separate the designs, having the date off center throws the balance of the dial. The window, which replaces the 4 o’clock marker, is also not exactly where 4 should be (it’s closer to 5), so it just feels awkward. It’s also further towards the center than the circular markers, which is due to the size of the movement, but that makes it feel like it’s just floating off. As convenient as it is to have a date, I would rather they had forgone it entirely to keep the symmetry and layout consistent or at least offered a no date option.

That hands of the C60 are quite a departure from the Rolex source material, yet work very well with the overall style of the watch. The hour and minute hands are both classically shaped, but have a sort of art deco twist in the form of tapering elongated tip. The hour hand then lightly refers to the Mercedes hand by being shorter and largely circular, though it lacks the triangular cross. The minute hand is then a large roman sword shape, which is quite different than what you’d find on Sub. The second hand is a long thin steel stick with a red tip and a trident on the opposite side. I quite like the trident, it is unique, reinforces the branding of the line and ties in with the waveform on the dial.

The C60 features lume on the hands, applied markers, small dots on the outer index and the bezel pearl. The lume pearl features green lume, while everything else has blue. Unfortunately, I found the quality to be very disappointing. Under direct charge from a UV flashlight, the pearl glows brightly, though it fades quickly, the hands glow medium strength also fading fast, and the dial barely glows. On the dial the small markers on the edge glow brightest, while the applied markers, despite their size, hardly glow at all. Considering this is a dive watch from a reputable brand, not to mention the quality of lume we’ve seen on cheaper dive watches made in Asia, I was very surprised by this. This doesn’t ruin the watch as ultimately it is a style piece with some dive specs, but I think it limits its potential greatly.

Straps and Wearability

There are handful of different strap options one can choose from when selecting a C60, but the simplest and least expensive, is on a NATO. They released this option in honor of James Bond’s 50th anniversary on screen. Depending on what bezel color the watch has the NATO will change, but the Khaki comes on a traditional Bond regimental strap with black, red and green lines. If you watch Dr. No closely, you will see Bond’s Submariner 6538 on a ribbon strap of the same color. Many different NATOs are called “Bond” style, but this is the true version. Anyway, as we all know, regardless of the color, Sub style divers look amazing on NATO straps and the C60 is no exception.

The Khaki bezel already has added some military vibes to the watch, and the NATO takes that further. Now, I am going to be really picky here, but I do think the bezel and Bond NATO clash a little bit. The greens are very similar, but are not quite the same… Will anyone notice that, probably not, but once I became attuned to it, I couldn’t help but see it. The specific NATO it comes with is also pretty generic in terms of manufacturing. It has heat welds rather than stitching and unbranded hardware. I was hoping it would be a beefier NATO that was unique to C Ward, rather than the typical bought-from-a-catalog variety.

Luckily NATOs are super easy to swap, and if you are like me you have tons, so I preferred to wear it on military tan NATO, which gives the whole watch a camo feel and blends with the olive/khaki bezel. Another great option (sorry for the shameless plug) was on one of our Graphite NYC NATOs. The matte grey emphasizes the bezel and dial colors while the sort of faded quality of the nubuck brings out some vintage elements to the design.

On the wrist, the C60 wears incredibly well. It’s one of those watches you put on and forget about, because it’s just so comfortable. The 42 x 50mm size wears smaller than it is, and really looks great on the wrist. My wrist is 7″ and 42mm is about as large as I like to go, so the C60 really fit perfectly, but I think it would work on larger and some slightly smaller wrists as well.

Some of the gripes I had before about the date window, etc. really go out the window when you are wearing it. It simply looks great. It’s handsome, masculine, understated and classic… While it doesn’t look like a vintage Sub or GMT, it has a bit of the same attitude and great style on its own, so it gets the job done. Like a Sub, it’s sporty, but refined so it works with any attire and can be worn anywhere. The khaki bezel adds something different and unique to the mix that makes it all the more interesting and cool.

Conclusion

It’s pretty easy to understand the popularity of the C Ward C60 Trident Pro. It’s great looking, paying tribute to some iconic designs while also having its own identity. Details such as the wave patterned dial, applied markers, interesting hands and unique bezel color options really take the C60 that extra step that makes a watch special. Overall, it’s also very well made and has the credentials of both Swiss manufacturing and a Swiss automatic movement. For the price of $535-635 it really offers a lot of style and quality.

That said, I do think the lume is disappointing and I wish there was a no date option for those of us who would rather save the dial’s symmetry. I’m also not sure if it really makes sense to get the NATO option rather than the leather strap for a mere $15 more. NATOs like this are very common and inexpensive, while C Ward’s leather straps are better than average. Frankly, they should just include the NATO with the other strap options.