Martenero Edgemere Review

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Charm is never an easy thing to quantify. Whether it’s a person, a work of art, or even a watch, something either has that undefinable charisma or it doesn’t. It can be tough to put your finger on in watches especially. You can put two designs with very similar elements side by side and one can be infinitely more charming than the other. That’s the way I’ve felt about the Martenero Edgemere, one of the most charming, likable watches we’ve seen in a long time. So what gives this nautical-inspired piece so much character? We spent some hands-on time with the line to find out.

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Introducing the new Martenero Edgemere.

Editor’s Note: Just as a matter of full transparency, it should be made clear that Zach Weiss, co-founder and Executive Editor of w&w, works with Martenero in a design capacity. worn&wound has no financial relationship with the brand, nor does Sean Lorentzen, the author of this review. The post was also written without editorial influence.

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$550

Martenero Edgemere Review

Case
316L stainless steel
Movement
Miyota 8425
Dial
White/Blue White/Red White/Silver Blue/White
Lume
N/A
Lens
Sapphire crystal
Strap
Genuine leather
Water Resistance
50m
Dimensions
40mm x 47mm
Thickness
11.8mm
Lug Width
20mm
Crown
5mm x 3mm; screw down
Warranty
Yes
Price
$550

Case

The case of the Martenero Edgemere is simple and classically proportioned, but with a surprising amount of detail for the price point. Straight, squared-off lugs anchor the watch from a top-down view, giving it a planted, masculine appearance. The light, subtle brushing here contrasts nicely with the thin polished bezel.

The case features an attractive mix of polished and brushed surfaces.
The signed “M” crown at three.

There are four distinct layers when viewed from the side, breaking up the simple slab-sided geometry with alternating bands of polishing and brushing. It’s not a particularly thick watch at 11.8mm, but these bands help to make it look even thinner and add some elegance to the proceedings. The crown at three is signed lightly with a minimal Martenero “M.” For the case back, Martenero has gone with a crisply etched compass rose design that brings home the marine chronometer vibe of the piece and helps to sell the fun, adventurous feel.

martenero-edgemere-13

Dial

As nicely done as the case is, the dial of the Edgemere is where its personality really starts to shine through. The main surface of the dial carries a diagonal striped pattern, giving off the feel of deck planks on a sailboat. The sub seconds dial at 4:30 sits on a lower layer, adding some textural contrast with a sunburst finish, and the off-center placement comes off as playful rather than unbalanced. martenero-edgemere-33

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The Edgemere’s signature dish, however, is the applied hours track. Sitting well above the main surface and adorned with simple Arabic numerals, this contrasting ring anchors the color scheme of the dial and gives the piece just the right amount of depth. Along the outside, a narrow minutes track completes the look and adds another splash of color. The handset, in another nautical touch, is a modernized take on the traditional marine teardrop style. The long stick hands culminate in clean diamond tips, windowed for the small seconds and painted in yet another contrasting color for the minutes.

martenero-edgemere-all-four
With four different color combinations, the new Martenero Edgemere takes on some surprisingly different personalities.

There are four different distinct dials on offer. The classic combination, of course, is the white dial/blue ring variant. A staple of marine watches and nautical style in general, it’s given a touch of creativity here with a red-tipped minutes hand and tricolor minutes track. It’s Cape Cod as all hell, and I fully expect to see this in some prep/Americana wardrobe albums in the coming months. The blue dial/white ring version is another safe bet, essentially a slightly more muted reversal of the first.

Edgemere White Blue
Edgemere Blue
Edgemere Silver
Edgemere White Red

The Edgemere really excels with its two more adventurous offerings. The first–the white dial/brushed silver ring variant–still carries a pop of color with its teal sub seconds and minutes hand tip, but classes up the design with a polished sheen. This is one that feels a bit dressier and a little more suit-ready than the others, but still unique and fun. The second–and in my eyes the real winner of the bunch–is the white dial/red ring combination. Swapping out the traditional nautical blue in the ring for a vibrant red gives this one an individual character, but keeps the blue in light touches on the hands and minutes track. It’s harmonious, balanced, fun, and together with the proud “Martenero New York” signature plaque on the dial, refreshingly all-American.

Movement

At the heart of the Edgemere is a solid, reliable Miyota 8425. As Miyotas have become ubiquitous among microbrands in the past few years, we’ve seen this power plant several times before, but there’s no denying it’s a wise choice here. Easy to maintain and cost effective, the 8425 is perfectly serviceable given the overall package.

Straps and Wearability

Strap choice for the Edgemere consists of lined leather in brown, navy blue, or crimson, depending on the dial choice. The straps themselves are some of the best we’ve seen at this price point. They’re thick and supple, and there’s some fine variation in color, especially with the brown. The finishing touches–the edge painting and same-color stitching–streamline the look nicely. The signed buckle is also a nice touch. With this much choice already on hand, this design is versatile enough to work on all sorts of straps. A nylon slip-through in the summer would be a natural choice, and I can’t help but wonder how the white/red ring combo would present on a Milanese bracelet.

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On a 6.75-inch wrist, the Martenero Edgemere is an absolute joy. (Also featured our Harris Tweed 2 Watch Fold.)

As far as wearability goes, the 40mm case and wide-set shortish lugs hit a sweet spot for most, feeling pleasantly mid-sized on wrists both big and small. The Edgemere, depending on the color, could be the perfect piece for the “one-watch” man. It’s eminently versatile, feeling at home on T-shirt weekends as much as suited business meetings. If there was a situation where this thing doesn’t fit in, I haven’t found it yet.

Conclusion

There’s no one thing that makes the Martenero Edgemere as charming as it is. It’s an effort in harmony, with every element working together, and the end result definitely leaves an impression. I’ve never been a marine deck watch kind of person. “I’m a chronograph guy,” I’d tell myself every so often while wearing this. Before long, however, I couldn’t deny it. This marine watch, with its vibrant colors, clean case, and unique attitude had won me over. It’s the girl you don’t expect to fall for that you often fall for the hardest, and my list of reasons for not buying one is running dangerously short. It’s hard to put a price tag on charisma, but at $550, it’s a steal.


Visit Martenero to pick up yours today.

Images from this post:

Hailing from Redondo Beach, California, Sean’s passion for design and all things mechanical started at birth. Having grown up at race tracks, hot rod shops and car shows, he brings old-school motoring style and a lifestyle bent to his mostly vintage watch collection.

seanpaullorentzen
  • Justin Yates

    Very cool dial design that gives the watch some depth. The different touches of finishing also provide contrast in a different sense to make it interesting to look at. Still not a fan of the lugs. It’s interesting where we’ve arrived at with microbrands where the vernacular of “a steal” is now used for a $550 no complications watch using a Miyota 8425. Four years ago that would be lunacy.

    • Thomas

      My $0.02: I hope that more people (perhaps yourself included) realize that a watch is so much more than the cost of it’s movement.

      • Justin Yates

        I do realize this. But it plays a part. There’s a sweet spot of extra features or finishing combined with the movement that should be striven for with regards to pricing. Do you think there would be a huge market for a watch with Lange level finishing that had an ETA 2824 and cost $15,000? It’s what turned the Pelagos from a pretty good watch into a great watch.

        • Thomas

          Yes, I do believe there is a market, and even using your example Ochs Und Junior is doing very well selling modified ETA 2824’s for over $10,000 (and modified UN movements for over $20,000).

          In one watch the movement could be 80% or more of the cost to produce the watch, and in other watch it could be 20% or less. If both watches use the same movement, which one is going to cost more retail?

          • Justin Yates

            Are you referring to their perpetual calendars? High complications are going to be expensive – it is what it is. I guess on your other point, what kind of watch person are you? Would you rather your money went to some haute horlogerie or to precious metals on a pedestrian off the shelf movement?

            My initial comment was more to the observation that a few years ago it seemed microbrands hit a sweet spot of offering value with off the shelf movements, good design, and solid, well executed finishing. It now seems they’re moving further upscale using the same movements and occupying the pricing group of Longines etc that they used to be such a bargain when compared to. A great example is Autodromo. You’re asking someone who is most likely mechanically inclined or at least interested (due to our given hobby) to shell out over $900 for a Group B with a Miyota 9015 that doesn’t “do anything”. It’s a three hander that isn’t in some crazy dive case or some specific tool watch. Yes, the case is nice as well as the design, but the movement still matters. You’re pricing a lot of potential customers out because you wanted to put titanium around a 9015.

            I like the watch. I can afford the watch. But I’m very conscious of what I’m getting for my money and would only buy it second hand. But there is almost no Group B used market to speak of. Which means there aren’t that many out there to sell. I wish microbrands would just remember what it is they’re selling.

            The Martenero hasn’t priced itself out of the market by any means, but the landscape and the niche that micros are trying to fill has definitely changed. The Swiss industry is in a complete crisis due to overproduction, over saturation, and price inflation, and I hope micros can take lessons from this so the same doesn’t happen to them.

          • Thomas

            I’m referring to the annual calendar, which uses a $150 ETA 2824 base movement and adds 3 components to make it an annual calendar, bringing the watch to over $10,000 retail.

            You can buy watches with genuine ETA 2824’s for as little as about $400, and everywhere in between. I would say not all of them are great value, but a lot of them are and they all share the same movement. There are a lot of other factors that can significantly affect the value of the watch.

            I find it pessimistic to say that the small Group B preowned market is because nobody bought them. I am much more inclined to think it’s because Autodromo really nails it with their watches, and their owners don’t part with them very often. Why would a titanium case need to house a more expensive movement? The beauty of the micro market is you can get what matters to you, whether that be a watch with an ETA 2824 that skimps in other areas in order to keep the price low, or a watch with a Miyota movement that is kick-ass in every other department and has a mid-range price.

            I agree with you about the state of the Swiss market and being conscious of how you are spending your money. My point is that the lowest price doesn’t represent the greatest value.

          • Justin Yates

            In the end value is relative and our perceptions of it are as unique as we are ourselves. I do understand your balance of movement vs features as pertains to price, there are just certain combinations I would rather stay away from personally for the cost. Do Montblancs use in house movements? No, but their price for an annual calendar is astounding. That’s value in regards to watches for me.

            I don’t want to misconstrue my views as lowest price = greatest value… I don’t feel that way at all. I think Jaeger-LeCoultre is without any doubt in my mind the best value in the watch industry, especially second hand prices. And the fact that you can easily get an ultra thin with one of the thinnest mechanical movements ever made, put together by the same master watchmakers who assemble their perpetual calendars, for under $3000 on the used market is mind blowing to me and I only hope the secret stays safe for a longer time because in the watch world it’s almost criminal.

            In the end one’s preferences are not apt to be altered by quick discussion but I did enjoy it and found it informative and entertaining.

          • Thomas

            Agreed. We are all in it for the love, after all. Cheers!

  • dread_dentist

    Playful??? Nope, just unbalanced. It should be made out of plastic and say Swatch on the dial. I’d buy one for my niece if it were $500 less.

    Maybe it’s a hipster/millennial thing?

    • LackofPerspective

      Yes, because intergenerational sniping means you don’t have to generate an intelligent argument.