w&w’s Guide to Watches 40mm and Under (Part 1)

A few years ago, we put together a list of some our favorite watches coming in at 40mm and under. At the time, the industry was trending toward larger watches, but we found that our audience often shared our preference for smaller timepieces, and that was ultimately the impetus for the original guide. We maintained that preference over the years, and it seems pretty apparent that the industry by and large is following suit today.

We’ve since owned, played with, and reviewed hundreds, if not thousands, of other watches from all sorts of brands big and small, young and storied. That level of exposure doesn’t come without consequence; our tastes have changed in subtle—and sometimes not so subtle—ways, and our guidelines for what make a watch objectively good or bad have matured, or at least we’d like to think so.

Given that progression and what we know now, we thought it was time to give that list another go. So today we present our guide to some of our favorite watches 40mm and under. These are pieces that we’ve had a chance to experience in the metal and they’re all currently available on the market, so you don’t have to worry about jumping down the vintage rabbit hole or digging too hard to find them.

This is going to be a big one, so we’ve broken it up into two parts. Don’t worry—part two is not too far behind. Let’s get to it.

(Editor’s note: Don’t forget to check out our watch review grid, which features nearly 300 watches that we’ve covered in-depth at w&w. Designed to be a tool for our readers, the grid can be sorted using a number of handy parameters, among them brand, type, price, and of course, size.)

Hanhart Pioneer MK I – 40mm

Hanhart is a storied German brand that’s made quite a comeback over the last couple of years. The Pioneer Mk I is part of the brand’s core collection and it is based on a great military chronograph from the ‘30s. What makes the Mk I especially unique is that it features a mono-pusher design, something that Hanhart accomplished by working with haute movement manufacturer and modifier La Joux-Perret. Beautifully finished and exceptionally priced, the Pioneer Mk I is a wonderful option for anyone seeking a unique, reasonably-size chronograph.

Sinn 556 I/A – 38.5mm

Sinn (Sinn-Spezialuhren) is no stranger to worn&wound. It’s a brand we swear by, and it’s a strong favorite among the editorial team (we’ve got the personal collections to prove it).

Founded in 1961 by Helmut Sinn as a vehicle for producing value-driven tool watches, Sinn has since grown in size and scope without straying far from the course. Particularly, the brand has focused on pioneering case technologies and standards that put Sinn’s watches in a class above many others. Case in point: the recently instituted DIN 8330 standard developed in cooperation with Sinn to formally define a true pilot’s watch.

The 556 is Sinn’s entry-level piece both in terms of specs and cost. While it lacks the exciting technology Sinn often features in its higher-tier watches, the 556 remains a well-priced contemporary, German-made sports watch. The cases are finely engineered in-house by SUG, a firm co-founded by Sinn’s current and longstanding owner, Lothar Schmidt (side note: SUG also manufactures cases for A. Lange & Söhne). The dials are crisply printed, and among some of the most legible I’ve ever come across. And the movement—a top-grade ETA 2824-2—is finely decorated and visible through an exhibition case-back.

Within the 556 line, there are two primary variants: the 556 I and the 556 A. The former features simple baton indices for the hours track, and the latter has Arabic numerals at 3, 6, 9, and 12 in a style akin to cockpit clocks. The A variant is playful and casual, and the I boasts a great all-around aesthetic that makes it the perfect option for someone wanting a versatile, everyday watch.

Nomos Metro – 37mm

Based out of Glashütte, Nomos is a small brand (of about 260 employees) with some big ambitions. Known primarily for its playful, modernist aesthetic, Nomos really came into its own in 2005 after the firm developed its first in-house caliber. And while going in-house is a feat in its own right, Nomos went a step further by keeping prices accessible, shattering the notion that in-house had to be expensive. Since that time, Nomos has greatly expanded its catalogue, and in 2014 Nomos took a step toward true independence with the Swing System, its in-house escapement.

The Metro, the first watch to feature the Swing System, has one of the brand’s quirkiest designs. It stands out from the rest of Nomos’ offerings with it’s off-kilter, asymmetrical dial and wire-lugged cylindrical case. On the wrist, the Metro wears comfortably with some considerable presence given the all-dial design. Overall, it’s a great option for anyone looking for a watch that’s different than anything you’d likely see on the street.

Damasko DA 36 – 40mm

Flying largely under the radar of most watch enthusiasts, German brand Damasko Uhrenmanufaktur does not pull any punches. Like Sinn, Damasko focuses primarily on the design and manufacture of  robust tool watches. To that end, Damakso holds a number of patents for an impressive roster of tech—from the brand’s proprietary self-lubricating crown system to the ice-hardened steel cases used across the entirety of Damasko’s catalogue. And it should be noted that Damasko is a full-fledged manufacture to boot, with two impressive in-house calibers, both featuring a silicon escapement.

The DA 36—alongside a handful of variants featuring slightly different dials and case finishing—is Damasko’s entry level model. Though you won’t find Damasko’s in-house movement, the DA 36 does host a number of the brand’s impressive case technology, ensuring a robust and enduring timepiece.

Aesthetically, it’s a bit blunt, but there’s a lot to be said about such a straightforward approach. It’s austere and highly legible. It’s outwardly simple, yet at the same time deceptively complex in its finer details—e.g. the custom day/date wheels that allow the aperture to rest right below, rather than on, the bisecting cross hair at three o’clock.

It’s a watch that has, in my personal experience as an owner, garnered more interest and attention from non-enthusiasts than perhaps any other in my collection, several times from complete strangers on the subway. Now, I don’t buy watches for the purpose of attracting praise, but there is certainly something alluring about the DA 36.

Mido Baroncelli Heritage – 39mm

One of the standouts from this year’s Basel, The Baroncelli Heritage is a stunning vintage-inspired model from Mido. It is a relatively thin watch at 6.85mm, so it is sure to fit under a shirt cuff. To achieve such a size, Mido’s designers employed some clever tricks.

The bezel is narrow and stepped, which gives the case some dimensionality. The dial, rather than being smooth and glossy, has an eggshell-like texture; it’s matte and slightly uneven, which keeps it from looking too plain. The hands are sandblasted on one side and diamond-polished on the other, giving the appearance of being faceted while remaining completely flat. A similar technique is used on the Slim d’Hermès and Citizen’s Eco-Drive One—both far more expensive pieces—to great effect. Additionally, the seconds hand on the white and cream dialed models are blued steel.

Overall, the Baroncelli Heritage offers an incredible value, and had there been any other brand name on the dial the watch would have easily clocked in at over $2,000.

Junghans Max Bill – 34mm/38mm/39mm/40mm

Designed by renowned Swiss designer and architect Max Bill, the watches that make up the eponymous line from Junghans are unlike almost anything else on the market. Simply put, they’re a masterclass in minimalism—something that many strive to embody, but so few achieve.

Design heritage aside, the Max Bill watches are simply gorgeous. The stark, domed dials coupled with precise printing and iconic typeface (just look at that elegant “4”) make for an attractive face, one that is further accentuated by a prominent domed crystal. Given the all-dial design and the UFO-like case shape and size, the watches sit ideally on the wrist without sacrificing any presence. It’s a perfectly executed balancing act.

Junghans offers the Max Bill collection in a number of sizes and setups, from the 40mm Chronoscope down to the 34mm manual-wind option. Whatever your preference, there is something for everyone.

Autodromo Group B – 39mm

As far as racing-inspired watches go, Autodromo has the aesthetic down pat. Founded by car and racing enthusiast Bradley Price, Autodromo has consistently released hit after hit, from its early days with the Veloce and Vallelunga to the most recent Group B Evoluzione.

But if I were forced to choose a favorite among the pack, I would undoubtedly go with the original Group B collection, inspired by Group B racing cars from the ‘80s. The mix of metals, unique construction, stunning dials, and overall high level of fit and finish make the Group B watches a fantastic buy, and the subdued sizing makes for a joyful experience on the wrist.

The thing that Bradley does really well, and perhaps better than most, is that he doesn’t hit you over the head with his source of inspiration. As our own Zach Weiss noted in his review, “the watch design itself is obviously not a literal translation of a rally car, instead [it speaks] to sport watches of the surrounding period, as well as the aesthetics of the 80s [while] avoiding the tackiness that pervaded the era.”