Introducing the Olivier Jonquet Capitaine and Carrosse

Share this story:

As I noted in a recent article about Itay Noy, one of my favorite things about Baselworld is getting a chance to spend time with smaller brands outside the main halls. These are usually independents–sometimes they’re even one-person operations—doing interesting things off the beaten path. Itay Noy is one such brand. Another is Olivier Jonquet. On the final day of our trip, we met Mr. Jonquet in the lobby of the Ramada Hotel near the main buildings at Baselworld, and we used the opportunity to talk to the designer/maker about his latest batch of watches.

The Carrosse

I’d wager that few of you have ever heard of Mr. Jonquet and his eponymous brand. As far as press goes, Olivier Jonquet got a bit of coverage a few years back with the release of the Elie, a simple, vintage-inspired timekeeper manufactured entirely in France. To achieve that label, Mr. Jonquet sourced a batch of vintage French calibers, France Ébauches 233/69, which he disassembled, cleaned, and regulated. The resulting cushion-cased timepiece featured a white enamel dial with applied Breguet numerals and hands, and it was limited to just 50 units. It’s a complicated watch despite its immediate appearance suggesting otherwise, and one where the devil’s in the details. These have long since sold out.

Save

Save

Save

Save

Save

Save

Save

Save

Save

Advertisement

Olivier Jonquet’s sophomore outing consists of two collections—the Capitaine series and the limited Carrosse. One can immediately see the brand’s early DNA in these two watches, but there’s undoubtedly a higher level of refinement here.

First, the Capitaine. The first word that comes to mind here is baroque. From the dial to the ornate hands, the Capitaine eagerly pulls on the design of 17th and 18th century clocks. To be perfectly frank, I wasn’t especially drawn to this watch when I first saw it online, but in person it was truly breathtaking, with each detail expertly executed.

Capitaine Black
Capitaine Steel

The cushion case now measures an upsized 43.5mm by 43.5mm, features wire lugs, and has a domed sapphire in the front and a flat sapphire in the back. Powering the watch is a top-grade Unitas 6498-1 movement, finished ever so slightly in-house.

The watch is available in two versions: Steel and Black. The former features a white enameled dial, heat-blued hands, and a polished stainless steel case; the latter then features a black enameled dial, white painted hands, and a PVD-coated case. It’s a sportier take on an otherwise classic design.

Save

Save

Save

Save

Save

Save

Save

Save

Save

But as nice as the Capitaine is, the real star of Olivier Jonquet’s current catalog is the Carrosse. Utilizing the same case, the Carrosse takes a more complex approach with the dial. The white painted dial features dramatic embossed cartouches with blue hour numerals painted within, giving the watch some dramatic dimensionality. A set of golden hands further draws the eye to the dial.

The Carrosse on a 7.5-inch wrist.

All three watches wear exceptionally well. Despite the larger dimensions and squared case, the wire lugs temper the way the watch looks when worn. And while there is certainly a bit of a dramatic flair here, it’s subdued  when the watch is on the wrist. In terms of styling, I’d argue that this makes for a solid daily wear to the office.

Save

Save

Save

Save

Save

Save

Save

Save

Save

Each watch comes with a bespoke watch strap, hand-stitched and distressed for a high-end look and feel. I really liked the way the Capitaine model looked with the burnished blue strap. There’s also a very handsome alligator option offered by the brand. That said, I think these watches would look fantastic paired with a number of different classically styled straps should you prefer something a bit more subdued.

The Capitaine Steel retails for 1,825 Euro, the Black and Carrosse for 1,991.67 Euro. Converted, that’s about $2,002 and $2,184, respectively, but expect VAT to be deducted if you’re buying outside the EU.


For more information visit Oliver Jonquet.

Images from this post:
Ilya is worn&wound's Managing Editor and Video Producer. He believes that when it comes to watches, quality, simplicity and functionality are king. This may very well explain his love for German and military-inspired watches. In addition to watches, Ilya brings an encyclopedic knowledge of leather, denim and all things related to menswear.
ryvini
Categories:
  • Elijs Dima

    Gorgeous pieces.

  • tgadzo

    Almost like wearing a tiny grandfather clock on your wrist. Quite charming – love them all!

  • Alex Tan

    Those dials, hands looks really unique and original. Nice.

  • Cepillin1183

    The white dialed Carrosse watch immediately drew me to the circle of apple shape as hour markers. Now I can’t un-see it. An “apple” watch. I cannot un-see it. Still, a stunning brand execution overall.

Article / News & Releases

Introducing Ronin Watches

By
Contrary to the claims the wrist watch is “dead” it …

Introducing Makara Watches

By
Get your wallets ready, because I’m about to show you …