The Sinn Flieger 103 line is a staple of the brand’s collection, and features a number of models with broad variation in design, complication and finishing. The 103 St we’re reviewing is arguably the most simple and classically designed of them all, with base Valjoux 7750 movement, polished case and acrylic crystal. Other 103 models expand on the line’s core design to include titanium cases, GMT functionality, sapphire crystal and, of course, Sinn’s signature technologies such as DIAPAL (lubricant free escapement) and Ar-Dehumidifying which prevents moisture from building within the watch case as it ages. Even the 103 Classic, modeled after the original 103 A of the 1960’s now features proprietary technology. These more sophisticated enhancements have become a calling card for Sinn since the brand was sold in 1994 from Helmut Sinn, its founder, to Lothar Schmidt. For a complete list of in-house technologies, please see Sinn’s website.
The 103 reviewed here has strong roots to the vintage pilot chronographs of the 1960’s, and to the early days of Sinn manufacture. Its is immediately clear that the 103 draws strong inspiration from the Breguet Type XX, with which it shares many design elements from the case, bezel and dial. Around the same time that the Type XX was being manufactured, as was the iconic Heuer Bundeswehr chronograph, which Sinn collaborated with Heuer on at the time. This piece, while lacking the elegance of the Type XX, shares a similar design language.
The 103 St has further been in Sinn’s lineup of watches since at least the 1980’s, if not longer. Frankly, record of Sinn’s activity and collection is sparse from its founding in 1961 until 1994 when ownership changed hands. This may a result of the companies philosophy of strictly producing high-quality timepieces at affordable prices, spending little time or money on advertising and other “superfluous” marketing. This also meant only selling watches directly to customers. Unlike today, when you can hop on watchbuys.com or, in certain areas of the world, head to your local jeweler to pick up a Sinn, under Helmut Sinn’s leadership, you had to deal directly with the company to purchase a timepiece.
Now that we have a bit of the 103’s history down, lets take a closer look at the watch itself.
Case: Stainless Steel
Movement: Valjoux 7750 25 jewels 28,800
Strap: Stainless bracelet with polished and matte finish
Water Res.: 20 atm
Dimensions: 41 x 47mm
Thickness: 15 mm
Lug Width: 20 mm
Crown: 6 x 4.75 mm screw down
Warranty: 2 year
Measuring 41 mm in diameter and 47 mm lug to lug, the 103’s case features distinctively aggressive lines, similar to those found on vintage pilot chronographs, specifically the Breguet Type XX available throughout the 60’s and 70’s. But the cases most outstanding feature has to be the black alloy bidirectional pilots bezel, also common on vintage models. Matte black, the bezel shows silver numerals at five minute/second intervals and hash markers in between. Along its side is subtle, toothed edging, appearing only above the numerical indicators. This provides a nice tactile feel when rotating the bezel, and also contributes to the overall sense of refined masculinity that defines the watch.
When viewed from above, the 103’s lugs emerge from below the black bezel, polished and aggressively angled, and beveled edging along the lugs’ sides highlights their geometry. At the two three and four o’clock positions are the polished chrono pushers and screw down crown. Prominent guards surround the screw down crown, but unlike other models of the 103, the pushers of the St do not feature screw down guards.
Viewing the 103 St from the side, its angular design is even more apparent, with the lugs sloping sharply downward, reminiscent of the wings of a fighter jet. The case also appears rather tall, and it is at 15.5 mm, aided by the beautiful domed acrylic crystal. Viewing the 103 St from the side, you also gain a full appreciation the various colors and textures it incorporates, from the bubble of the crystal, to the tactical black bezel, to the polish of the mid case and brushed finish of the screw down case back. The blend of these dynamic features is key to the heart and soul of the 103 St as a tool pilot chronograph with polish and class of of a vintage luxury timepiece.