Grand Seiko teams with Watches of Switzerland for their Latest Mt. Iwate Dialed GMT

Grand Seiko has announced a special edition collaboration with Watches of Switzerland, the UK based luxury watch retailer. The “Toge” Special Edition, carrying reference number SBGM241, is a green dialed GMT that combines a bunch of well loved Grand Seiko features into one impressive and unique dress watch. Let’s take a closer look.

Grand Seiko Toge SBGM241

• Case Material: Stainless steel 
• Dial: Green
• Dimensions: 39.5 x 13.7mm
• Crystal: Sapphire       
• Water Resistance: 3 ATM 
• Crown: Push/pull                       
• Movement: Caliber 9S66
• Strap/bracelet: Crocodile Leather  
• Price: $5,200
• Reference Number: SBGM241
• Expected Release: Delivery in July

Fans of Grand Seiko know that their watches tend to be inspired by the natural world as well as cultural references, and this is the starting point for the most dynamic feature of the Toge, its green dial with the now familiar Mt. Iwate pattern. The color of the dial is Grand Seiko’s take on British racing green, and of course the small ridges on the dial are meant to evoke the slopes of Mt. Iwate, visible from Grand Seiko manufacture where the design was conceived. “Toge” is a Japanese term that refers to a mountain pass, and the watch is meant to make you think of a drive through the mountains, perhaps in a classic British sports car. 

For those that haven’t experienced the Mt. Iwate dial, it’s really something special. As you can get a sense of in the photos here, the pattern can be subtle and almost invisible in certain lighting conditions, and incredibly dramatic and transfixing in others. It’s a rare combination of being both a bit under the radar and highly distinctive, and is completely worthy of being held in the same esteem as other classic Grand Seiko dials, like the Snowflake and the many limited edition dials featuring elaborate geometric patterns.

The case used here is the classic 39mm Elegance case designed by Nobuhiro Kosugi. Many modern Grand Seiko references have harsh angles to really amplify the beauty of the Zaratsu polishing, but this design is softer, dressier, and leaves an entirely different impression than something like a 44GS derived case. While the impressive polishing might not be as immediately obvious from across a room, upon close inspection the finishing will certainly hold up, both on the case and dial. The hands are impossibly sharp, and each marker is faceted and brought to the same no-distortion shine as the Zaratsu polished elements on the case.

The Toge is powered by the 9S66 caliber, a GMT movement with an independently set hour hand for local time, and a date at 3:00. While this movement is not as high end as the high beat rate movements found in other recent Grand Seiko offerings, it’s still finished to the same standards, adjusted to tolerances of -3 to +5 seconds per day, and makes use of Grand Seiko’s MEMS technology to ensure the highest levels of efficiency and chronometry.

The Toge is essentially a more colorful take on the SBGM221, reviewed here, and like that watch it seems to capture much of what is appealing about Grand Seiko, but in a subtle and somewhat more conservative way. Here we have a GMT, perhaps the brand’s signature complication at this point, with a dial that is meant to stun (and with a poetic and fun backstory), and a case that wears well on any wrist.

The new Grand Seiko Toge is available exclusively through Watches of Switzerland and select Mayors locations, with a retail price of $5,200. Additionally, visiting the Grand Seiko USA, Grand Seiko UK, Watches of Switzerland, and Mayors social media hubs on Instagram and Facebook allows users to try the watch on through an augmented reality (AR) filter, a first for Grand Seiko. Grand Seiko