Embodying the idea “if it aint broke dont fix it”, the 200 meter FLX003 shares the same proportions and specs as its predecessors in Fleux’s collection. With an on paper diameter of 38mm (39mm including the overhanging bezel), it seeks to comfortably measure in smaller than the 41mm Omega it draws inspiration from. While the 14mm thickness (including the domed crystal) prevents the FLX003 from wearing small, downward sloping lugs (which happen to feature nicely polished chamfered edges) paired with a reasonable lug to lug distance of 47mm allow for a noticeable but comfortable wearing experience you’d expect from a midsize diver. Like the Seamaster 300, the FLX003 has a 20mm lug width that is paired with a sailcloth strap. The stock SEAQUAL strap features quick release spring bars and is surprisingly pliable out of the box despite being made out of recycled ocean plastic.
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Beyond the case, the FLX003 is defined by a series of deliberate features that set it apart from your average homage. And yes, I used the H word. By definition, homage means to pay honor and show respect, and that is exactly what this watch does for the Big Triangle. Showing respect and honor is generally considered a good thing in nearly all aspects of life, but somewhere along the way, homage became a dirty word in the watch community. To be clear, I don’t subscribe to that mentality. Modern watches have historically drawn inspiration from watches of the past. Brands started pairing black dials with rotating bezels in the 1950’s, a winning open-source combination that has been kept alive simply because it looks really damn good. To suddenly reject the tradition of recycling aesthetics because a word became stigmatized on forums seems a bit silly to me. Some of that stigmatization lies in inaccurately conflating homages with replicas. And I get it- replicas are bad and harm real people, be they consumers or brand owners. But unless a watch maliciously pretends to be something it isn’t, I don’t see a reason to draw an imaginary line in the sand to determine what design traits can and can’t be borrowed. Frankly, that sounds exhausting. I’d much rather spend my time geeking out over exactly how modern watches are creatively paying tribute to watches of the past.
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For the FLX003, that tribute centers on the giant triangle at 12:00. Apart from this obvious star of the show, you might be hard pressed to guess its inspiration from the dial-alone. Like the Seamaster 300, the Fleux features a lumed 3,6,9 layout and a brand name at 12:00. Unlike the Seamaster 300, it distinguishes itself with a diving flag at 6:00 along with two lines of text reminding us that this is an automatic watch with 200 meters of water resistance. I’m rarely a fan of using limited dial space to tout specs and think the flag alone would have provided aesthetic equilibrium, but overall the addition is successful in contributing both balance and an original element. Offering legible contrast to a black dial, fauxtina lume in the form of Super-Luminova C3 “Old Radium” (love it or hate- I think it works here) is applied in healthy, puffy amounts to the hands and baton markers that are notably thinner than those found on the Seamaster 300. This same lume tone is expertly matched to this bezel markings, including a glowing luminescent inverted triangle.
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Backing up the 200 meters of water resistance advertised on the dial, the FLX003 features a screw down crown (decorated with a diving flag to match the dial). But beyond this, Fleux admirably opted not to go the “spec monster” route, instead prioritizing vintage charm over modern robustness. The choice to use a period-correct double-domed hesalite crystal not only provides proof that your watch was designed by a fellow enthusiast, but also provides warm hues and pleasing distortions that sapphire simply can’t compete with.
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Like acrylic crystals, aluminum bezel inserts like the one on the FLX003 are as prone to scratches as they are to flak from some spec-blinded buyers. While not a perfect match to the original bakelite, I think it’s an appropriate modern alternative for mimicking vintage charm on a budget. Fleux even opted for a friction-fit bi-directional bezel- a nod to the original Big Triangle and a favor to our significant others that are sick of noisy bezels ruining movie night. As final reminders that the FLX003 isn’t your average homage, it deviates from the Seamaster 300 with countdown markings instead of the more common elapsed time and features a highly legible broad arrow (instead of the original sword) hour hand- a choice that keeps that overall design in the Omega universe without sacrificing functionality.
Final Thoughts
No matter if you call them homages or prefer the term “inspired”, after years owning and enjoying watches that celebrate classic designs, I’ve learned they generally fall into two categories: those that prioritize specs and value over unique interpretation, and those created with enthusiast inspired tweaks to celebrate the designs we collectively cherish. Both fill an in demand niche, but Fleux decidedly fall into the latter. In fact, venture to Fleux’s website and you’ll find an “about us” page that tells a story of founder Edward Cho’s childhood fascination with mechanical movements and finding joy in interacting with them. It’s a simple summary many of us can relate to, and frankly, the kind I want from the person designing my watch.
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Vintage inspired designs, ranging from look-alikes to loose interpretations, have become increasingly prevalent in the enthusiast community, and it’s easy to see why. Familiar designs offer something for everyone, no matter if you want to test out a design until you finally win that auction, or if you’re a budget-conscious collector like me that is about as likely to spend 10K on a 50 year old watch as you are to convince a room of enthusiasts that the Patek Philippe Cubitus is a well-designed bargain. Thanks to the FLX003, those unfavorable odds don’t need to stand in the way of experiencing a thoughtful interpretation of one of the most iconic designs of the past half century. Fleux
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