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Editor’s note: In this week’s 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Sunny Tsui takes us through a hypothetical collection that is remarkably well balanced. It features a watch from a major luxury brand, an affordable indie on the rise, and, like so many of these three watch collections, a Seiko that you might not be expecting.
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It’s always interesting to think about a three watch collection with a given budget at a certain point in time. The recommendations will evolve over time with our knowledge in watches, new models coming up, and the market conditions. I have been considering style, complications, and brand variety when constructing this collection. To push the boundary maximising the value, I am selecting all three watches from the pre-owned market.
Christopher Ward C63 Sealander GMT – $900 (Pre-owned)
The first one is a versatile watch from a British brand – Christopher Ward. I have been following the brand for a while but really took notice, like many others, when they launched the C1 Bel Canto. From my experience the brand really does a good job in manufacturing high quality watches with reasonable mark-ups. With a 39mm diameter, 12mm case height, and a 46mm lug-to-lug distance plus a clean white dial, the C63 Sealander GMT is a versatile watch fitting any occasion and outfit. You can easily pair it with business casual attire in the workplace or wear it outdoors during vacations. Its GMT function also tells you that it will be a perfect travel companion. Finishing of the hands, case, bezel, and bracelet are smooth and make the watch comfortable to wear. To reserve the budget for the next two pieces, I would look for a pre-owned example at around $900.
Seiko Presage SARX027 – $550 (Pre-owned)
My next pick is a dress watch I personally owned a few years ago. This Seiko Presage is an earlier model launched around 2015. When I first saw this watch at a Seiko store, I was caught by its lovely white enamel dial which gives a strong contrast with the black artistic hour markers and hands. Despite its price point, the white parts of the dial are clear and give a warm and gentle reflection of light. Apart from the fascinating dial, the fully polished case and lugs are constructed such that there are multiple surfaces to reflect the light from different angles. Some bonuses are that it comes with an open case back, a thin and shiny leather strap, and a well-made folding buckle. It measures 40mm in diameter, 13mm in height, and 47mm from lug-to-lug, which puts the watch on the larger end of the dress watch spectrum. Still, it’s a great match with a suit in professional settins. Since SARX027 was launched almost 10 years ago, you will have to go pre-owned for this reference, which you should be able to find at around $550.
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph IW377701 – $3,550 (Pre-owned)
With a $5000 budget in total, I think it’s worth acquiring an iconic piece from a luxury brand. The last piece to be added to this hypothetical collection is the IWC Pilot Chronograph. This particular reference, IW377701, is an earlier model launched in the 2010s. It has a 43mm diameter, 15mm case height, and measures 53mm lug-to-lug. This watch offers all the hallmarks from the vaunted IWC Pilot line: a busy yet clear dial, a well-polished case, a properly tuned chronograph movement, and, in my opinion, one of the best calf leather straps. Moreover, a special feature I love about this model is it has an extended date window showing the last and next dates which mimic a plane’s control panel design. I would love to wear this in winter to pair it with a leather jacket and a pair of leather boots, which is a real pilot inspired aesthetic. You can also dress up with this IWC to make a statement in important events. Its price on the pre-owned market is around $3,550, and I believe you can find a good-quality one with a full set with patience.
