Latest Review
Helson is a watch company that we’ve mentioned a few times on worn&wound. They have a number of models that we admire, and by the looks of their newest offerings, Helson is maintaining their commitment to quality divers at an affordable price.
Helson Blackbeard
Recently, Helson rolled out a few new vintage inspired divers under the Blackbeard name. They are currently available in three models: two with ETA 2824-2 movements and one with a “Top Grade” Valjoux 7750. The Blackbeard series is a sort of follow up to their beloved Skin Diver collection. That being said, where the Skin Diver was paying homage to 60’s military designs, the Blackbeards go in a more whimsical direction.
As the name suggests, classic pirate lore play a role in overall design and as such, there are prominently featured Jolly Rogers on each watch. The 2824 models come in two flavors: a black with green lume model that has a glowing skull and cross bones at twelve, and a white dial version with black hands and orange lume that has a more sneaky design. In light, the face might appear as a simple clean white with chunky black markers for an index, but in the dark, its true character is revealed via the skull and crossbones that are nearly the entire face.
Both feature domed bezels with lumed markers, which gives them a certain Fifty Fathoms resemblance, screwdown crowns with skulls etched in, sapphire crystals, 500M depth rating and both mesh and rubber straps. At $749, these are certainly not cheap, but considering their uniqueness, great looks, high quality components, and good brand reputation, that seems like a fair amount of booty (couldn’t resist).
The Blackbeard Chrono, which at the time of writing this is only available with a black dial, sports its skull insignia at 9 under the small seconds. It has the typical 7750 layout, with dials at 12 and 6 for the chronograph and a day/date at 3. At 42mm x 18mm, this is a chunky beast of a chronograph, but that seems fitting given the character of the watches. The Chrono goes for $1099.
Case: Brushed 316L surgical stainless steel
Movement: 25 Jewel ETA 2824-2 automatic – power reserve 40 h./ “Top Grade” Valjoux 7750
Lens: AR coated, 3mm thick Sapphire
Bracelet: 22 mm mesh bracelet and 22mm natural rubber strap
Water resistance: 500m/1.640 ft
Diameter: 42mm
Height: (Blackbeard) 16mm (Blackbeard Chrono) 18mm
Lug width: 22mm
Crown: Screw down
Helson Shark Diver 42mm
Helson has also recently released an updated and slimmed down version of their Shark Diver, coming in at a 42mm wide (51.5 lug to lug) and 14.5mm thick. That’s considerably more palatable for many than the 45mm wide and 18mm thick original Shark Diver. The new model also comes in a number of alternative color ways that you won’t find with the original, including all black and blue versions (face and bezel). But for my money, the real winner of the group is the model that comes with a black bezel, white face and blue C3 lume (pictured).
Possibly the most interesting detail of the new 42mm line is that it is available with either a 25 Jewel ETA 2824-2 automatic movement or a 24 Jewel Japanese Miyota 9015 automatic. Both varieties are identical in weight and size, while the Miyota is priced at $599, $100 cheaper than the ETA version. It also looks like the white faced version I like so much only comes with an ETA movement. Both models are currently available over on Helson’s website.
Case: Brushed 316L surgical stainless steel
Movement: 25 Jewel ETA 2824-2 automatic – power reserve 40 h.
Lens: AR coated, 3mm thick Sapphire
Bracelet: stainless steel bracelet with removable screwed end links / double locking clasp with diver extension
Water resistance: 500m/1.640 ft
Diameter: 42mm
Height 14.5mm
Lug distance: 22mm
Crown: Screwed w. side protection
images from Helson-Watch.com
