Latest Review
March 8, 2022 
Dive watch history continues to be fertile ground for new releases, and Bulova has gotten into the game with the new Mil-Ships diver, a part of their ongoing archive series. This is a special watch with a storied past, but unlike many of the high profile dive watches that are already part of vintage watch lore, the Mil-Ships seen here is based on a prototype that was never made commercially available. The insider nature of the Mil Ships is part of its appeal – it’s not only a fully capable diver with a ton of style ready for whatever you throw at it, it’s a conversation starter with a story like none other.
The story begins in 1958, when Bulova delivered three pre-production samples of a new “submersible wristwatch” to Washington Navy Yard for testing. The watches were put through their paces, with tests for watertightness, readability in the dark, and other functions critical for any watch issued to military personnel. The watches were tested both in a laboratory environment and in actual diving situations.
Unfortunately, two out of those three watches failed. Even though the watches continued to run, a tell-tale right on the dial indicated that they hadn’t passed the test for watertightness. A colored strip of paper, designed to change color with any moisture entering the case, had indeed given warning that the watches were compromised. Bulova, likely aware of the expense ahead of them to tackle significant engineering challenges, shelved the project and moved on.
Now, over 60 years later, Bulova has returned to the Mil-Ships, creating a pair of special watches paying tribute to that early, nearly forgotten prototype. The MIL-SHIPS-W-2181 is available in two versions, one a standard production model with a workhorse Miyota movement, and the other a limited edition powered by a Sellita SW200. Both capture the romance and distinctive aesthetic of late 50s dive watches with a transporting effect that will make you think you’re part of the team testing these watches in the field.
At 41mm with a sandblasted case finish, these are tool watches to their core. The new Mil-Ships has 200 meters of water resistance, so it can easily stand up to virtually any type of diving, professional, recreational, or military. The dial layout is simple and straightforward, which is exactly what you expect and need in a purpose driven tool. But because we’re working from a template born in the 1950s, there’s a casual elegance at play here as well. The hour markers are made up of a combination of circular and rectangular plots, filled with tan lume, colored to look like time has done its job on the dial. The hands have a classic and ornate quality to them, easy to read and colored in the same tone as the markers, but with a decorative flair that sets the Mil-Ships apart.
Perhaps what really makes the watch special, though, is that small strip of paper right above the 6:00 marker. This two-tone strip changes color with any moisture ingress to the case, making it easy to see at a glance if the watch’s watertight seals have failed. This isn’t simply a decorative nod to a watch from Bulova’s past – the strip really works. If you dunk the watch in a pool with the crown unscrewed, or the gaskets fail after years of regular use, that strip is going to change color.
The Mil-Ships has a distinct and clean bezel design, with a black aluminum insert marked by Arabic numerals at 15, 30, and 45, with straight hashes at five minute intervals, and a triangle at 12:00. These accents are lumed and color matched to the markers on the dial and the Mil-Ship’s hands. An interesting quirk of the watch, common to the original as well, is that the bezel needs to be pressed down in order to turn it. This offers an extra bit of security and confidence that it won’t be accidentally knocked about, and provides for a bit of retro charm as well.
As a nod to history, the Mil-Ships also features a nicely engraved caseback, featuring an image of diver’s helmet in relief. On the limited edition version, the watch’s LE number is indicated as well. The caseback design serves as a reminder of this watch’s interesting, decades-long path to production, and the sometimes circuitous routes watches take through our shared history.
The MIL-SHIPS-W-2181 powered by a Miyota automatic movement carries a retail price of $895. If you opt for the limited edition, it will set you back $1,990. The LE comes in an elaborate presentation box modeled after the diving helmet seen on the caseback.
