Hands-On With the Iridescent New Oris ProPilot X Laser

Oris expands their ProPilot X collection this week at the Dubai Watch Week event, with the introduction of the ProPilot X Laser. The watch continues with the theme of the ProPilot X, bringing the same trim titanium case and bracelet to the party, but this time mated to a very different dial experience than we’ve seen before in this collection. There are big changes and some smaller ones that we appreciate seeing here, as this represents the biggest departure from the standard trio introduced last year. Oris has never been afraid to wade into experimental waters with their dials, and this ProPilot X continues that trend in a new way. 

The latest ProPilot X is called Laser thanks to the technique used to create its dial, a method which Oris claims has not been applied in watchmaking before. Oris enlisted the help of a research lab affiliated to the prestigious ETH Zürich university to bring the concept to life. The result is something bordering ethereal in person, with a constantly changing palette of colors rendered in the unique texture. The iridescent effect is quite powerful and Oris has demonstrated a deft hand in making sure it’s the focal point of this watch.

We’ve been spoiled by some truly amazing dial creations in recent years from the likes of Grand Seiko, Czapek, Arcanaut, and yes, even Oris. My first thought upon seeing a truly compelling dial is to how it fits in with the rest of the watch. For instance, the Arcanaut Arc II Fordite boasts a unique colorful dial that takes precedence over telling the time, whereas Grand Seiko is careful to preserve practical elements such as date windows and power reserve indicators, sometimes to the point of compromise to the delicate beauty of their dials. Oris generally finds a good balance here, but with the ProPilot X Laser, they lean more towards Arcanaut’s conceptual territory and fully embrace the experience of the dial over practical needs. 

The dial at work here, which is, like the case, titanium, recreates optical inference sometimes found in nature, reflecting blue and green waves while suppressing red waves. It is at once powerful and subtle, and will take on new character depending on the angle and the light. Upon closer inspection you’ll also notice the vertical texture, bringing another element to the party. Oris has foregone a date aperture here, and even the hour markers are done in a manner that takes a backseat to the rest of the dial. As a result, it can be difficult to read at times, but that almost feels besides the point here. There’s a commitment to the result that I have to tip my hat to, and is something I’d love to see from other brands that take pains to create such dials.

The rest of the watch remains much the same as we’ve seen in other ProPilot X watches, which is to say, quite nice (read Ed Jelley’s full review right here). The 39mm case measures 12mm in thickness and sports a nicely integrated titanium bracelet that makes for an overall lovely experience on the wrist, even if the bracelet doesn’t quite have that silky articulation quality. The somewhat aggressive design can feel slightly at odds with the relative simplicity of the dial, especially with this specific dial, but it creates for an altogether unique experience. 

The ProPilot X Laser gets Oris’ in-house caliber 400 sans the date, and it is visible through the exhibition caseback. Pricing for this watch is set at $5,200, and it is available now. Keep an eye out for more news from Dubai Watch Week coming soon. Oris.