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Earlier this year, when Dutch independent brand Holthinrichs announced their new Signature Collection, we thought it was one of the most impressive new projects in indie watchmaking. It represented a bold shift for the brand, moving from complex, bespoke watchmaking to something more easily repeatable and at a more approachable price point. With advances in manufacturing capabilities, the new and less expensive Signature Collection actually represents a vision of watchmaking far closer to what brand founder Michiel Holthinrichs had always intended. It was, and remains, an exciting story for fans of the brand, but after seeing Holthinrichs steadily create watches that are more and more ambitious in recent years, we’ve kept hope alive that the brand hadn’t completely abandoned their goals of creating something truly high end and in-house.
Now, on the heels of the Signature Collection comes word of a new project within Holthinrichs that would appear to fill the void of truly high end watchmaking that was left when the brand transitioned to their new model. Holthinrichs Haute Horlogerie provides an outlet for the brand’s most ambitious ideas, and the first watch under this new banner, the Ornament Nouveau, is unlike anything they’ve attempted previously.
Like every watch Holthinrichs has made, the defining characteristic of the new piece is its sculptural design. But with the Ornament Nouveau, those ideas have been manifested not just in the case and dial design, but in the movement itself. It’s a realization of a design goal Michiel Holthinrichs has had from the very beginning, one in which every component is integrated, working together, and adheres to the same overarching concept.
The movement is described by the brand as in-house, but is the result of partnerships with Dutch precision manufacturers and Swiss suppliers. It measures 4mm thick, but the design has maximized visual depth through lots of hand finishing and an architecture that complements the sweeping curves of the case. The brass mainplate can be finished in any of four custom galvanic treatments: 18K gold, 18K rose gold, white rhodium or black rhodium. The mainplate has a double concave shape, which accentuates the caliber’s three dimensional qualities, as do the steel bridges perched above it. The balance wheel is held in place by a three dimensional glass bridge that the brand refers to as the “Holthinbridge.” This is a manually wound caliber with a power reserve topping out at 83 hours.
While it’s tough to tell from these early renders, the dial would also appear to be pretty special, and similarly a bit of a departure for the brand. It’s described as UV sensitive, and made from a photochromic material. Holthinrichs says the dial turns dark gray when exposed to UV light, but otherwise has a translucent quality that allows the wearer to view the movement underneath.
The Ornament Nouveau is a limited series of 20 pieces with a retail price of CHF 67,138. Holthinrichs has set up a special Instagram feed for this project here.
