Independent Watchmaker Sergey Chutov and His Fortress Collection

Not everyone has the courage to turn away from an established career, and take a risk on something that brings them joy. The watch industry is saturated with watches and watch brands focusing on every price point; from the powerhouses supported by the conglomerates they’re nestled under, to the independent and microbrands that have filled the market with innovation at a value cost, it can be hard for a new watchmaker to find their place. Sergey Chutov is an independent watchmaker that’s staking his claim, a fortress on a crowded battlefield, with pride, design, craft, and complex mechanics melting into the forge. 

Until 2018, Sergey worked as a civil judge in Moscow. While going about his days he often found that his mind would drift to his passions. “One day I noticed that my thoughts were more occupied with watches than with legal work,” he told me. Eventually, Sergey made the decision to change the course of his life, and set down the path to gathering more knowledge about watches. “I spent 4 years learning how to make watches and honing my skills before making my first model,” he said. 

That first model that Sergey is alluding to would be his Fortress I. There are currently five Fortress models that make up Sergey Chutov’s body of work. Each one with a similar DNA and evolving motif, with variations on movement, materials, and style. When I think of a “fortress” my mind goes to something cold and uninviting, but these watches, although arguably stark, beckon you to come closer. To peek at the materials used to create these beautiful contemporary dials. I had to know where the inspiration behind the “fortress” came from.

Sergey drew on influence from the renaissance architecture of Florence. Inspired by the beauty of architectural marvels like Brunelleschi’s dome of the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, and the surrounding monuments. “There is no particular fortress that inspires me, I am rather inspired by the unconventional approach of architects and designers,” he said. And it was this blending of styles and unconventional solutions that fueled what Sergey would create. The changes of the dial designs and materials used are the perfect examples of this evolution of style. 

Sergey’s explanation of the influence behind the design of these watches adds all new depth. The Santa Maria del Fiore in Florence, for example, took 173 years to construct; it’s no surprise the cathedral contains multitudes of influence as its construction spanned different architectural periods. In a similar fashion, the design of Sergey Chutov’s watches, although contemporary, clearly have influences spanning across a century or more. I can see hints of Patek and Lange, even Philippe Dufour, but with Sergey’s new twist, especially when looking at those handmade upper dial designs and cutouts made with materials like German silver and satin bronze. Sergey is also excited to start adding even more customization to future models. 

As of now, Sergey considers his achievements to be modest, but this artisan continues to grow his arsenal. “All dials are handmade by me, as well as some of the hands. The next step is to manufacture the movement bridges and housing,” Sergey said. Watchmakers spend decades honing their craft, and entering into that realm must be daunting, yet Sergey says “the feeling of being a schoolboy at an adult party is gradually leaving me.”

It’s clear that Sergey has committed himself fully to his watchmaking, and it’s inspiring that he started as a watch collector and enthusiast. And perhaps it is through his experience collecting that we reach the true core of his brand’s philosophy.

Sergey believes in building trust and a closeness with his customers. He wants his watches to exceed their expectations, so that his customers can look forward to what’s next. “Receiving positive feedback and an emotional response from customers, when they open a big box thinking that there is only a watch inside, but see many more gifts from me, I begin to realize that I am moving in the right direction,” he said. It’s evident that Sergey is willing to go the extra mile to strengthen the connection with his customers. 

In order to become one of Sergey’s customers all you need to do is head over to his website and select your favorite model. You’ll then be asked to provide your name and number to request contact from Sergey. He’ll then reach out to you with information about your model’s availability, delivery time, and payment options. Sergey Chutov’s watches currently range in price from $3000 to $5000.

Sergey’s brand is one that developed purely from passion. Like Sergey, I too find myself thinking about watches most of the time, and it’s heartwarming to know that there are watchmakers and brands that see what they do as more than just a job, but a calling. It’s also exciting to see an artist grow in their craft. I’m looking forward to seeing what will come next from Sergey Chutov and how his art will evolve with time. Sergey Chutov

All images by @time.texas and used with permission