In 2016, we announced the return of Guinand, the company once helmed by Helmut Sinn after his departure from his eponymous brand. Driven by new leadership, Guinand promised a revamped catalog of watches that would grow the firm, yet remain true to the ethos that has made Guinand a best-kept-secret in German watchmaking.
One of Guinand’s most technically-interesting watches has been and remains the Flying Officer. It’s a remake of a pilot’s chronograph bearing the same name that Guinand produced in the ‘60s (Guinand’s take on the 24-hour chronograph shouldn’t be confused with the Flying Officer also produced by Galet).
Save
What makes the Flying Officer especially intriguing, and it’s also what one would likely notice first upon seeing or handling the watch, is that it features a true 24-hour dial, with the hour hand advancing across the dial once every 24 hours. To achieve that, the watch’s engine—the now-discontinued Valjoux 7760—had to be modified in-house by Guinand. Furthermore, to achieve the register layout of the original, Guinand had to move the 30-minute sub-dial counter to three o’clock from 12 (the historical model, it should be noted, featured a sub-dial with a 45-minute counter at three). While not an uncommon modification, it is a significant one. In an act of self-restraint, Guinand has also omitted the date window, keeping the symmetry intact.
Save
Save
Save
Going beyond the movement, another appealing trait of the Flying Officer is its size. It measures 37.5mm wide and 11mm thick, which is absolutely wild for a chronograph being produced in 2017.
Guinand first brought the Flying Officer back into the fold in 2011 as a limited edition release during the Hassler era of the brand—that is, after Helmut Sinn left and before the new management under Matthias Klueh took over. It is still currently available for purchase, though last I checked availability seems to be totally dependent on Guinand’s stock of modified 7760s.
Save
Save
Save
Earlier this summer Guinand unveiled the Flying Officer 12h Automatic—an iteration of the Flying Officer that, while admittedly a departure from the original’s concept, retains some of the foundational DNA of the Flying Officer aesthetic. For sure, it’s a different watch with some significant changes in functionality from the original Flying Officer, but it’s still damn cool.
The Flying Officer 12h Automatic is, as the name spoils, a 12-hour chronograph powered by an automatic caliber—here the Valjoux 7753. The architecture of the 7753 is responsible for a highly pleasing register configuration, with the 30-minute counter at three, a 12-hour counter at six, and the active seconds at nine. And yes, there’s no date window here, too.
As far as the size goes, the case retains its 37.5mm width, but it’s been scaled up in height to about 14mm to account for the automatic movement. The case is stainless steel (fully polished), and it features a domed sapphire crystal with internal anti-reflective coating up top and a screwed case back with a sapphire aperture around back.
One thing that Guinand hasn’t changed in all these years is their direct-to-consumer model. As a result, both the Flying Officer and the Flying Officer 12h Automatic are offered at highly competitive prices. The Flying Officer 12h Automatic is €1,790, and the Flying Officer—with its greater level of movement modification—is a slightly higher, yet reasonable €1,889. Excluding VAT and converted to USD with current exchange rates, that’s about $1,772 and $1,870, respectively. For what you’re getting with either of these two watches, that’s a really solid deal. Guinand
Ilya is Worn & Wound's Managing Editor and Video Producer. He believes that when it comes to watches, quality, simplicity and functionality are king. This may very well explain his love for German and military-inspired watches. In addition to watches, Ilya brings an encyclopedic knowledge of leather, denim and all things related to menswear.
This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website. Out of these cookies, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website. We also use third-party cookies that help us analyze and understand how you use this website. These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. But opting out of some of these cookies may have an effect on your browsing experience.
Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. These cookies ensure basic functionalities and security features of the website, anonymously.
Cookie
Duration
Description
cookielawinfo-checkbox-analytics
11 months
This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Analytics".
cookielawinfo-checkbox-functional
11 months
The cookie is set by GDPR cookie consent to record the user consent for the cookies in the category "Functional".
cookielawinfo-checkbox-necessary
11 months
This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookies is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Necessary".
cookielawinfo-checkbox-others
11 months
This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Other.
cookielawinfo-checkbox-performance
11 months
This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Performance".
viewed_cookie_policy
11 months
The cookie is set by the GDPR Cookie Consent plugin and is used to store whether or not user has consented to the use of cookies. It does not store any personal data.
Functional cookies help to perform certain functionalities like sharing the content of the website on social media platforms, collect feedbacks, and other third-party features.
Performance cookies are used to understand and analyze the key performance indexes of the website which helps in delivering a better user experience for the visitors.
Analytical cookies are used to understand how visitors interact with the website. These cookies help provide information on metrics the number of visitors, bounce rate, traffic source, etc.
Advertisement cookies are used to provide visitors with relevant ads and marketing campaigns. These cookies track visitors across websites and collect information to provide customized ads.