J.N. Shapiro Launches the Resurgence, the First U.S. Made Mechanical Watch Since 1969

It’s not hyperbole to say that this is an historic day in American watchmaking history. J.N. Shapiro, the California based indie known primarily for their beautiful engine turned dials, has announced a new American made watch. According to the brand, this is the first mechanical watch that can be accurately described as “Made in America” since 1969, when the last American made Hamilton watches rolled off the production line. It’s a big deal, and a big step for a watchmaker that has been very much on the rise in recent years, taking on more complex production challenges with every new release. From dials, to cases, to movements, Shapiro can now claim a watch where virtually every component is made in a single workshop. 

The watch, which Shapiro has dubbed the Resurgence, is the culmination of 12 years of learned experience among Shapiro and his team. At a glance, it has all of the aesthetic hallmarks of any Shapiro watch. A highly detailed multi level dial, for one, accented with intricate engine turning that has become Shapiro’s hallmark. What sets this watch apart, though, is the movement, which is not only beautiful to look at, with healthy doses of anglage, bridges with a distinct Damaskeening pattern (the American equivalent of Côtes de Genève), and rounded spokes on the caliber’s wheels, but has been designed and fabricated entirely in the United States. Shapiro produced his first movement prototypes in 2019, and that has led to the caliber at work in the Resurgence, which beats at an old-fashioned 18,000 BPH, features a free sprung balance, hacking seconds, and can be custom made with one of three distinct bridge layouts. Shapiro says that all components of the movement are made in his workshop, with the exception of hairsprings, mainsprings, and jewels. To that end, he notes that the team is working on jewel and hairspring production, and they hope to be making those in the workshop later this year. It’s also worth noting that components that could be classified as consumable (crystals, gaskets, and straps) are not made in house. No matter how you look at it, this is an incredibly impressive feat. 

Naturally, cases, dials, and hands continue to be made in-house by Shapiro and his team, and on that front they’ve created something appropriately special for the Resurgence. The dials feature guilloche patterns in multiple sectors which can be customized to the taste of each client – different patterns have sometimes wildly different characteristics, and Shapiro can create dials in a number of traditional executions, as well as his own “Infinity Weave” pattern. On the Resurgence, each dial sector is constructed from a different piece of metal, which gives it an almost sector-like appearance and adds a degree of depth not commonly associated with traditional engine turned dials. This method of construction means that Shapiro has to use both century old engine turning machines (for the decoration) with modern CNC machines (for milling) to get everything to fit together perfectly, and to properly align guilloche patterns across different layers. The attention to detail, literally to the micron, is kind of mindblowing. 

Case options are numerous. In addition to the rose gold case seen here (photo credits to Atom Moore), the Resurgence will be available in white gold, tantalum, steel, and dark zirconium. For the first time, Shapiro is offering the option of an engine turned midcase, a design flourish that is inspired by pocket watches, and rarely seen on modern wrist watches. Cases measure 38mm by default, but Shapiro offers some customization options here based on the request of each client. As with other J.N. Shapiro watches, there are multiple opportunities for owners to make unique requests for customization, including dial colors and the type of numerals (Roman, Hindu Arabic, and Hebrew are among the options available). 

The Resurgence itself is a truly exciting watch, but I think what’s even more interesting is the new territory this puts the J.N. Shapiro brand, and what it means for American watchmaking in general. Shapiro has long held that one of his great inspirations is George Daniels, and this release indicates that Shapiro has learned a lot from the Daniels method of producing things by hand in a bespoke fashion. Up until now, it was Daniels’ one time apprentice, Roger W. Smith, who seemed to be carrying that particular torch solo, but with this release it’s apparent that Shapiro is doing a version of that old school type of watchmaking right here in the United States.

Prices for the Resurgence series start at $70,000 for steel and zirconium cases, with the tantalum case priced at $80,000 and white and rose gold versions priced at $85,000. The Resurgence is limited by production capabilities (in other words, it’s not a numbered, limited edition series) and deliveries are expected to begin by the end of this year. J.N. Shapiro