It’s New Omega Day, and if you thought we’d escape with only the ultra capable Ultra Deep that Blake wrote about earlier today and not hit on what is arguably the brand’s most important product line, the Speedmaster, well, there was absolutely zero chance. After last year’s introduction of an all new Moonwatch with a METAS certified caliber and January’s launch of what is probably the most opulent Speedy ever, Omega has split the difference with their Spring releases, giving us a vintage inspired update to a fan favorite with an interesting new movement, along with another solid gold option in a dial color that’s still very much of the moment.
The new generation Speedmaster ‘57 is the latest version of their vintage inspired Speedmaster line first introduced in 2013. Since that first launch, there have been a bunch of ‘57 releases, but a few key features tied them all together. These are two register chronographs with a date at 6:00, and maintain some important vintage cues from the earliest Speedmasters that are particularly important to collectors, namely the straight lug design, steel tachymeter bezel, and (usually) a smaller size. The thing about these watches that always seemed somewhat incongruous to me was the use of an automatic movement. I think I get what Omega was up to here: it was an attempt to marry an important design language from the brand’s past with the best of their movement tech from today. Now, I’m no purist, and I’m fine with an automatic Speedmaster in principle, but for me it always felt wrong to have a watch that looks so carefully to the past without a hand wound movement.