Latest Review
I have a confession: I previously dismissed Orion for the wrong reasons. As an avid collector of microbrands, somewhere along the way I subconsciously created an arbitrary value scale based solely on movements. Collecting primarily in the sub $500 range, most watches that have passed through my watchbox have been powered by Seiko NH movements- the long reigning king of budget friendly 3rd party workhouse movements. On the occasions that I crossed that $500 threshold, I’ve been conditioned to expect a Miyota 9000 series, slightly more expensive, and considered an upgrade largely thanks to an extra two beats per second and the resulting sweeping second hand. Truth be told, I could care less about beat rates, but owning something deemed more premium is hard to pass up. It’s this human desire for the seemingly better thing that led me to shy away from Miyota powered watches over $700. Afterall, having $700 to drop on a microbrand opens up the option to own a watch powered by a Sellita SW200, a Swiss movement synonymous with luxury.
Of course, this is a deeply flawed way to collect watches and judge value. And, (spoiler alert) a guaranteed way to miss out on value-packed brands that don’t blow their entire budget on a movement. After spending time with Orion’s Miyota 9039 powered Sylph collection, which hovers just over $700 like much of their catalog, I’ve gained a new appreciation for brands that prioritize finishing and design over being the best bargain by spec sheets alone.
The Watch
The Orion Sylph is a 39 mm sport watch with 100 meters of water resistance, a sapphire crystal, elegant vibes and a comfort forward thickness of only 10.5mm. As nice as those things are, in the crowded microbrand market that increasingly churns out enthusiast-minded watches, it could describe any number of watches you’ll discover by searching #MICROBRAND on Instagram. In fact, dig back far enough and you’ll find images of previous iterations of the Sylph that, beyond the dial, bear little resemblance to the refreshed one available today. Before we look at those updates that are evidence of a mature brand that has grown skilled at nailing the details, let’s look at the under-the-crystal details that have remained consistent.
Staying true to the collection’s roots, the new Sylph features a white rally track around the perimeter of the dial. Enveloping chisel shaped diamond polished indices that are captivatingly reflective and packed with blue BGW9, the finely printed hash marks serve as functional minute markers while acting as complementary bookends to the sunburst finishing of the dial. Rally tracks, as the name implies, have a tendency to give a motorsport vibe to most dials they adorn, but with polished details abound, the Sylph leans elegant despite its rugged specs.
I spent time with both the sunburst burgundy and graphite variants and found myself gravitating strongly toward the burgundy. This is partially due to having previously reached my lifetime quota of robust black dial GADA (go-anywhere-do-anything) watches, but mostly because lighter colors have a tendency to best bring out the burst of this naturally dressy, radial effect. The Sylph is also available with a (currently sold out) black mother of pearl dial that offers an even further refined take on the theme of sporty elegance. Each of the three versions is paired with faceted hour and minute hands that feature the same polished finishing and lume as the indices. Likewise, each Sylph displays the brand name and logo at 12 and “automatic” at 6, all printed in white to match the rally track. Adding a welcome pop of color to an otherwise subdued palette, each version has a vibrant second hand that is color matched to the printed model name. The burgundy Sylph I favored has yellow accents, with orange on the graphite and teal on the mother of pearl.
In stark contrast to its previous case which had beefy crown guards and a very tool-esque vibe, the refreshed and crown guard free Sylph is built on the midsize Hellcat platform, which prioritizes comfort above all else. I found that the curved caseback that fans of the brand have grown to love increased wearability a surprising amount despite its subtle curve. After a couple days of wearing it, swapping the Sylph for other watches of similar height left me questioning why flat casebacks are industry standard. Demonstrating an ability to nail the details, this cozy case utilizes a combination of mostly brushed surfaces that remind you this is a highly capable 100 meter watch, and polished edges that add depth and tie into the dial’s aesthetic.
Among these polished components is my favorite detail of the entire watch: the high-polish concave bezel. While the unusual shape caught me off-guard at first, I quickly grew to love the fun reflections it provided and its ability to provide a distinct element that seemed designed specifically for the kind of people that care about things like reflections on a bezel (me). Staying true to the elegant motif, rounded lugs on the 47mm lug to lug case transition to an equally soft feeling Y-link bracelet with vertically brushed links that feature polished reliefs on the base of each “Y”. No, the bracelet doesn’t have a quick-adjust clasp, but does have micro-adjust holes.
Final Thoughts
To avoid risking unnecessary damage to watches that aren’t my own, I’ve developed a habit of boxing up a loaner watch as soon as my opinions have been formed. Admittedly, I’ve never been instructed to “baby” a watch and this is probably an unnecessary precaution, or at least that is what I am telling myself as I continue to unbox the Sylph time and time again for one last test drive. Unlike any other watch I’ve previously reviewed, it really began to feel like my watch. Maybe this is simply because my personal collection is currently missing a comfort forward daily wearer, but I’d suspect it’s because the Sylph nails the often attempted yet rarely delivered balance of attainable yet luxurious, and robust yet refined.
Shopping online for a microbrand can sometimes feel like navigating a minefield, searching for watches that feel like complete packages while steering clear of those that give the vibe of random (yet technically compatible) components that have been slapped together. Offering the best version of the first category, the Sylph is as cohesive as it is comfortable. Reading the backstory page on Orion’s website and learning of founder Nick Harris’s experience as a trained watchmaker helped me better understand his goal to make a rally track on an elegant watch feel natural. If you’re looking for the best specs per dollar, the Orion Sylph isn’t it (nor is it trying to be). Afterall, watches with the same movement and water resistance can be found for half the price. But if you want the comfort of a curved caseback and the quality of diamond cut indices, the Sylph stands out in the category of sub $1000 go-anywhere-do-anything microbrands. Orion
