Review: Christopher Ward’s Best Diver Ever? The C60 Trident Lumière

When Christopher Ward announced the C60 Trident Lumière a few weeks back, the emphasis—errr—the spotlight was put on using massive Globolight lume plots on the dial. Twelve individually molded lume-infused ceramic monoliths promised to glow like cartoon uranium studded the dial per hour. A dial they claimed cost them 4x the usual. Well, after a few weeks with the watch, while I can attest that the lume is very impressive, it’s not why the C60 Trident Lumière is successful.

Rather, it’s simply because it’s the best-executed tool/sports watch the brand has made, at least that I’ve encountered. The proportions are refined, the finishing is excellent, and the aesthetic is cohesive. The C60 Trident Lumière (just Lumière from here out), like the Twelve X and Bel Canto, demonstrates that Christopher Ward is a brand operating at a level on par with or higher than big Swiss brands at an equivalent price, a function of, but not a given, with their D2C model.

However, it’s perhaps more impressive in some respects than those other two watches because it’s not a showpiece. No, the Lumière is a mainline, if higher priced, offering for the brand. Which is to say, it’s a sign of what they can do on a “normal” watch and, thus, perhaps, a sign of what to expect in the future. But, enough hyperbole. Clearly, I am a bit taken with the Lumière, so let’s get into the details.

Case

Immediately upon removing the Lumière from its packaging, I was struck by the case. Measuring 41 x 47.9 x 10.85mm, it read impressively thin. 41mm, which almost feels daring in today’s small-diameter climate, is wide enough to spread the 10.85mm out, creating a proportionally thin watch, especially for a 300m diver with a substantial bezel. Wide, swooping bevels on both the top and bottom of the mid-case further reduce the thickness visually.

The finishing also stood out. Made of grade 2 titanium, which some brands will tell you can’t be polished nicely, the Lumière is mostly brushed with an appealing, noticeable grain but also features crisp polished bevels with sharp lines. Finishing quality can be a bit hard to quantify, especially as it has improved industry-wide over the last few years. Still, based on my experience, I’d say the Lumière is punching well above its weight.

The crown guards are an interesting and appealing detail. Previous watches from the C60 line feature crown guards that are part of the mid-case itself, protruding from the side in a continuous line. The Lumière’s are small blocks on either side of the crown that appear to be bolted on with small hex screws. If this looks familiar, that’s because it’s how they do them on the Twelves.

From an aesthetic perspective, they feel more technical and aggressive than the previous design, which works well for the modern diver format. They also feel slightly more involved and detailed, which adds to an overall sense of quality. On a broader conceptual note, it’s interesting to see how Christopher Ward’s aesthetic is evolving, with one line learning from another.

There are a couple of other points of interest: on the left side, you’ll find a helium escape valve, which is like the hood scoop or spoiler on my Subaru Legacy GT from college—it may look cool (or not), but it is really of no use (see this recent and informative post by Submersible Wrist for more information). Also, the case back features a large display window allowing for a view of the SW300 inside. Though a chronometer-certified movement with a custom rotor, it’s not much to look at as it doesn’t feature any extra graining or decoration. So, I don’t think a display back was necessary here, though it does make the water resistance and slim profile even more impressive. That said, I do wonder if they had gone solid if they could have made the watch even thinner.

The Lumière features a 120-click uni-directional bezel with a coin edge for grip. The mechanism feels excellent. It has a proper amount of tension and lands precisely with only the tiniest bit of backplay. It’s also possibly the loudest bezel I have experienced. Its sound is more like a “pop” than a “click” and rings out. Like, enough that I got a bit self-conscious while playing with it in the office. But, hey, if that’s your thing, C Ward nailed it.

Dial and Bezel Insert

As mentioned before, the dial and its use of GlobolightTM were the focus of the press materials for the Lumière. A material/process by a Swiss company called Xenoprint that brands have used for a while, such as Sinn, Aera, Moser, and Christopher Ward on the Moon Glow; they turned it up to 11 for the Lumière. There are 17 pieces on the dial, 12 for the hour markers and 5 for the logo, with the hour pieces being almost absurdly tall, so tall that they practically touch the minute hand.

Every hour save 12 is a long rectangle with a chamfered edge towards the center of the dial, adding just a bit of nuance to their otherwise blocky forms. The marker at 12 is an oversized triangle outline, an enjoyable change from standard shapes. As it’s a molded form, there is an inner cavity that shows off that it glows not just on the top but all sides, including within, which is a smart touch. The outline form is echoed by the hour and minute hands, which are inverted versions of the typical C60 shapes, featuring thick stacks of lume.

And, as expected, they glow damn well. When charged directly, everything glows bright blue and lasts a good while. I went to an afternoon movie while wearing the Lumière, and going from the sunny world to a dark theater was a great test. At first, it was bright enough to look like it was powered from within. It faded slowly, but with eyes adjusted to the dark, the marks and hands were visible for some time.

However, one of the best features of the markers is not related to their lume. Because they are so tall, and such a crisp white, they are highly visible from all angles. The Lumière is a watch that is nearly as functional when seen from a very low angle as directly from above. The fact that that stays true while glowing makes it even better. While viewing angle is not a requisite for a dive watch, as far as I know, it seems advantageous.

The dial surface is a dark gray gradient with a stippled texture. The gray-to-black fade is effective, emphasizing the markers and adding some stylization. The stamped textured surface was perhaps chosen to appear extra matte, once again emphasizing the crisp white markers. I find this type of texture a mixed bag. Sometimes, it works better than others, as it can come off a bit cheap. Here, I think it’s inoffensive and has intention, but because of the stamping, the white overprint, particularly on the dial text, has slightly messy edges. Admittedly, this is only noticeable with a macro lens.

The grey extends to the matte ceramic bezel insert, which looks fantastic. Sure, an all-black dial and bezel would have looked good, too, but the use of gray here plays off of the titanium nicely, giving the Lumière a touch more of an aesthetized look. The markings on the bezel are all lumed, as they should be on a modern diver, matching the color of the dial markers but not quite their intensity.

A functional detail I was glad to see was that the ring on the inside of the bezel, which features small black marks every five minutes, was stationary. This allows you to align the bezel with these marks rather than the dial, which is easier as they are on the same level. I recall previous C60s featuring split bezel designs that were cool looking but were part of the same surface, so they didn’t have this added function.

The dial of the Lumière comes together well, and I’d go so far as to say I prefer it to the standard C60s, which are similar but feature applied metal markers. To me, the C60 line has always been about satisfying the itch for a clean, simple, modern diver. They aren’t overly stylized, which in turn means they can seem a bit plain– but intentionally so. And that’s not a problem; they are more about purpose and versatility.

The Lumière has a technical and aggressive style, making it feel more modern. But, despite having a touch of an edge, it’s still easy to digest. There are neither design elements that blow my mind nor disappoint. It’s balanced, it’s clean, it’s legible. The Globolight certainly pulls it all together, but as I said, most of the time, it isn’t doing anything that tall, white plastic markers might not have achieved on their own. Overall, the dial is straightforward and lacks any fussiness, which I appreciate.

Bracelet

I’m not a big bracelet person, but I’ll admit it can elevate an entire watch when a bracelet is really good. This is the case with Lumière’s bracelet. First, the lugs are 22mm, which, if you watched my Bel Canto review, you’ll know, is a bit of a trigger for me. 22mm straps make watches feel larger, and on a 41mm diameter, they could feel out of balance. Well, the bracelet tapers from 22mm to 16mm, which completely solves that issue. 4mm tapers, your days are numbered.

Not only does this help reduce the watch’s perceived size by removing mass around the wrist, but it also better follows the flow of the lugs, creating a more streamlined look. Perhaps more importantly, it makes it more comfortable, at least for me. The less skin contact, the better. This is bolstered by being titanium, as the weight is less of an issue.

The bracelet also continues the quality of the case finishing. It’s a three-link design that is brushed, with polished bevels on the topside of the outer edge of the links. Both the brushing and polishing match the quality of the case. Like the taper, this continues the flow of the lugs for a seamless look.

Lastly, the bracelet features a clasp with a new-ish micro-adjust system. I say “ish” because it’s not their first micro-adjust. I have experience with the old version, as it was on our Sandstorm LE from a few years ago, and it wasn’t great. In fact, it kind of sucked. It used a small lever you had to pull back to extend the bracelet. It was challenging to do, especially as someone who is fingernail challenged. The new mechanism has a push button that is simple and easy. With that said, it’s still not as good as a T-Fit clasp, which is the high standard in my book.

Wearability

Are big watches making a comeback? Is 41mm even big? I don’t know anymore, but after fighting for sub-40mm divers for so long, getting them, and then getting too many of them, a modern 41mm diver feels really good. The balance of the case proportions is the greatest triumph here. It’s big enough to feel sporty and aggressive but not so big as to be oversized, at least on my 7” wrist. The lug-to-lug is long enough to wrap around my wrist but not so long as to feel overextended. Even the male end links, which can make watches feel longer, curve just right. And it’s just so thin at 10.85mm and so light because of the titanium build.

Aesthetically, the Lumière feels like a refined tool watch. It’s not clunky or overly masculine like some tool divers can be, but it’s not trying to pass as a “luxury” dress diver, either. Once again, balance. While faceted, polished, applied dial markers can make a watch appear more high-end or complex, they can also be an unnecessary attempt at faux luxury. Does a diver really need to sparkle? Sure, this might mean it’s not a diver you also wear with a suit, but let’s be honest, that’s not the point of a diver either.

And sure, I’m not actually going diving any time soon, so perhaps the real “point” is lost on me as well, but as an everyday tool watch, the Lumière succeeds. It’s legible, comfortable, and versatile if leaning towards sporty and aggressive. Since this specific model is gray (there are also blue and orange dial options), it’s neutral, so it’s easy to wear with anything. If this were part of a collection, I could see it as a grab-and-go option for any day that doesn’t require formal attire.

Conclusion

Honestly, I wish I had more to criticize about the C60 Trident Lumière. I know someone will read this review and say it’s too positive. But, I’ve seen a lot of watches, many of them divers, and more often than not, there is something easy to point your finger at and say, “It would be perfect but for this one thing.” I’m not calling the Lumière “perfect,” but the Christopher Ward team has managed to check so many of the right boxes that there’s just nothing obviously off about it.

Too thick? Nope. Too heavy? Nope. Too big? Maybe for some, but not for me. Too small? Unlikely. Annoying date window? Nah. Bad lume? Definitely not. Non-lumed bezel? Not here. Bad movement? Swiss-made chronometer. No micro-adjust? Extend away. Sure, one could simply not like it, which is fair, but there isn’t anything clearly wrong with it.

Ok, one potential pressure point is the price. The Lumière starts at $1,975 on rubber and goes up to $2,390 on a bracelet, which I think is a necessary addition. That’s not an inexpensive watch by any means, which, to some Christopher Ward OGs, is perhaps a hard pill to swallow. The brand has moved upmarket, but unlike many brands that move upmarket without upgrading their watches, the quality of the new generation of C Wards meets or surpasses their price.

However, another way of looking at the price is in terms of the competition. The other watches that most come to mind when reviewing the Lumière in terms of fit, finish, style, and specs are the Sinn U50s (mechanical) and Tudor Pelagos’, which cost quite a bit more. U50’s aren’t titanium or chronometer-certified, but are 500m and offer case-hardening at an additional cost. They are 41mm in diameter and 11.2mm thick, so they are similarly sized. They start at $2,940 on rubber, and quickly increase from there. The Pelagos 39 is titanium and chronometer-certified, and has an in-house movement, but it is 200m and is priced at $4,700, though including a bracelet and a strap. They are 39mm in diameter and 11.8mm thick, so smaller but thicker. The classic Pelagos is 42mm and 14.3mm thick but is 500m. They cost $5,025.

That exercise aimed to show where the Lumière stands compared to the competition. While more expensive than your average C Ward diver, the Lumière is still a solid value by comparison and, based on my experience with all three, truly holds its own against them. Does this mean you should get it over a U50 or a Pelagos? Not necessarily, as they all offer something special, but even the fact that the Lumière is now in the same class as these other two watches, at least in my opinion, says an awful lot about its quality and how far Christopher Ward has come over the last few years. Christopher Ward