The RGM Watch Co. is celebrating their thirtieth anniversary this year, and as part of the celebration they’ve just unveiled a new version of a watch with some real historical importance, the Model 222-RR. This is a watch inspired by those made for railroad employees in the early 20th century, which of course was an industry that had an enormous impact on not just the development of timekeeping technology, but the westward expansion of the country. Railroad watches are truly a part of both the American and watchmaking story, and represent an area where elements of design, mechanical engineering, and history all overlap. The RGM Model 222-RR watches pay tribute to that history, and are also compelling as modern watches for a collector looking for something outside of the ordinary, or an interesting conversation piece.
RGM Celebrates their 30th Anniversary with a New Dial for a Classic Railroad Watch
The distinguishing feature of the Model 222-RR is the unusual 1:30 crown position, and the resulting shift in perspective on the dial that comes with everything being turned slightly to the right. According to RGM, the reason for the crown placement on these watches is a nod to the history of railroad watches as they transitioned from being worn in pockets to on the wrist in the early 20th century. When movements and dials were converted from pocket watch use to being suitable for wrist wear, the shift was necessary to accommodate straps at what would normally be the 12:00 position.
The new dial variant introduced for RGM’s anniversary this year is the “Classic Montgomery” dial, joining the traditional “Box Car” style dial long known for its large and easy to read sans-serif numerals. The Montgomery dials, also sometimes referred to as “marginal minute” dials, are defined by each minute being displayed with a numeral and corresponding hash mark around the dial’s perimeter, with every fifth numeral in red. Numerals indicating the hours are large and run along an interior track, and notably on these RGM watches have the “6” fully rendered within the running seconds sub register, a characteristic that many collectors of these watches insist upon if it’s to be called a true Montgomery dial. The dials are grand feu enamel, and feature blued steel hands.
RGM’s Model 222-RR watches all run on a Hamilton 10-sized pocket watch movement, regardless of the dial configuration. These movements are meticulously rebuilt by RGM, and include new mainsprings and hand finishing completed to specifications that RGM claims represent an improvement upon the original finishing. Customers can select from two movement grades: the grade 921 movement was fairly common, running in 21 jewels, while the grade 923 runs in 23 jewels and is considerably more rare, with fewer than 4,000 being produced.
For a watch running on a vintage pocket pocket watch caliber, the 41mm case size of the Model 222-RR is very reasonable. The lug to lug measurement of 52mm will push the limits for some, but should offer a lot of presence on the wrist and serve to highlight RGM’s craftsmanship and attention to period detail.
The retail price for a Model 222-RR with the grade 921 movement is $6,450, while the grade 923 movement version costs $7,950. RGM