The Grand Seiko Peacock Struts Again, and More Stunning New US Exclusives Announced

It was at the Couture show in Las Vegas last year that Grand Seiko announced their trio of US exclusives inspired by the greens and blues of the Genbi valley, housed in their perfect 37.3mm case. While the brand has had no shortage of releases so far this year, for those who were waiting, or hoping, for another round of US exclusives, you’re in luck. For this year’s Couture, Grand Seiko is bringing out a total of four models – two 9S63 manually-wound pieces from their Elegance collection, and two hi-beat GMTs in 44GS cases from the Heritage line.

It’s been a minute since we’ve seen Grand Seiko return to their particularly stylish 39mm case / 9S63 combo, so it’s great to see its return with not one, but two exciting dial options. For a refresher, this case features rounded Zaratsu polished surfaces, which takes this already special expertise and pushes its difficulty even further. The 9S63 is then easily identifiable by its seconds sub-dial at nine, and power at three. A bit of an odd layout, it gives these watches an inherently whimsical charm that sets them apart from other Grand Seikos.

The SBGK015 “Ryūsendō” is nothing short of breathtaking. Drawing from nature, as Grand Seiko is known to do, this vivid aqua dial is inspired by the underground lakes of the Ryūsendō. A limestone cavern located in the Iwate Prefecture, its swirling waters are translated into a complicated geometric pattern that is reminiscent of the “whirlpool” dials from 2018 that replaces the logos/symbols for additional line work.

While most of the dial furniture is in polished steel, the power reserve hand is rendered in gold, bringing to mind an unexpected sliver of light and indicating its limited production. The SBGK015 comes mounted to a blue crocodile strap and is limited to 250 pieces. It will retail for $7,500.

The SBGK017 draws from a decidedly different but no less Japanese source: Nanbu tekki ironware. A traditional style of metalwork originating in the Iwate prefecture, its history can be traced back to the Edo period. In addition to the dark gray color being translated to the dial, a grid-like texture called arare or hailstone has been applied. This texture appears to be very similar to the one found on the Paris Vendôme Limited Editions from 2020, which accompanied the launch of a boutique. They were also limited to just 20 pieces total, 10 in a rose gold case, and 10 in platinum, so about as rare as Grand Seikos get.

The texture here goes a long way to add depth and dynamism to the subtle gray metallic tone of the dial surface. The SBGK017 comes mounted to a steel bracelet, and rather than being limited is a “special” edition that will be continuously available. It will retail for $8,900.

Moving away from the Elegance collection, we have a duo of Heritage pieces featuring the 9S86 hi-beat GMT caliber, housed in the iconic 44GS-inspired case in steel. First is the SBGJ261 “Peacock.” As many of the Grand Seiko fans out there are likely already aware, there was already a “Peacock” model, the SBGJ227 from 2018, the difference between the two is that the new model is a rich blue that verges on purple, while the previous version was a deep teal, both taken from the exceptional jewel tones of the peacock’s plumage.

What these models have in common, apart from case and movement, is the texture, which is one of Grand Seiko’s most subtle. An array of concentric circles, they seem to ebb and flow in intensity, creating a shimmering effect of moments of highs and lows that hints at the eyes seen on a flared peacock tail. The SBGJ227 comes on a bracelet and is limited to 500 pieces. It will retail for $6,800.

Last up (are you overwhelmed yet?) is the soothing SBGJ259. This one didn’t come preloaded with a nickname, but I imagine “Zen Garden” or “Bamboo Grove” are likely candidates. Inspired by the bamboo garden at the Nezu Museum and Garden, which was designed by architect Kengo Huma, the dial of the SBGJ259 is striking, but calming, bright green with a strong yellow undertone. A subtle pattern of vertical lines with organic texturing provides depth and a connection to the inspiration. Bright chartreuse has been used for the GMT hand and text.

Perhaps more straightforward, but undeniably appealing, for fans of green (like yours truly) there is a strong pull to the contrast of the earthy green surface and subtle texturing with the harsh, faceted lines and surfaces of the 44GS case. The SBGJ259 is also a “special” edition that will be continuously available for $6,800.

All of the above watches will be available in September 2022 at Grand Seiko Boutiques and selected retail partners in the United States. Grand Seiko