Big Crown Calibre 473 Celebrates a Decade of Oris Movement Creation Program

Oris has always been about tradition. They’ve stayed true to their brand heritage, continuing to manufacture watches out of their Northwest Switzerland home in Hölstein since the brand was founded there in 1904. They’ve harkened back to their classic designs and brought them into the 20th century while simultaneously creating new and refreshing models that still keep the Oris spirit. Oris is also not a stranger to starting new traditions as well. Under the current leadership of the Swiss watch brand, they’ve trailblazed the path for how luxury watch brands can use their platform to make a positive impact on climate change. With their ‘Change for the Better campaign,’ Oris has developed multiple programs supporting environmental efforts all over the world and in the process becoming a carbon neutral company – a new tradition with lasting impact.

The Oris Movement Creation Program is a perfect example of old and new traditions coming together. The program revived what was a huge part of Oris’ culture in manufacturing unique in-house movements (270 and counting). Ten years after launching the program, Oris celebrates a decade of movement manufacturing by releasing their tenth in-house caliber with the Calibre 473.

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Being a part of the Calibre 400 series, we know right off the bat that the Big Crown Calibre 473 comes with high anti-magnetic properties, a ten year warranty, COSC certification and boasts 120 hours of power reserve. But here’s what makes the Cal 473 significantly different. First, there isn’t any sign of a rotor. That’s because the Cal 473 is a manually-wound movement, which is a first within the Calibre 400 series. This allows you to fully appreciate the second unique feature about the Cal 473, a power reserved indicator. The power reserve indicator lives within the same space as some of the movement furniture, and uses a blue indicator hand and scale that’s displayed in 24 hour intervals.

As the Big Crown Cal 473 moniker entails, the dial is arranged so that the days of the month are displayed along the edge with the specific date identified by a sharp red pointer-date arrow. The following layer is a railroad minute track that includes small triangular markers every five minute interval that correspond with the bold Arabic hour numerals. I haven’t had the chance to appreciate this particular model in person, but closer inspection of the photos provided by Oris reveal hour markers that rise from the dial, giving each numeral a sculptural effect.

Oris does a fantastic job of using this tone of indigo blue found on the Big Crown Calibre 473. It’s akin to the shade of blue found on the Oris x Cervo Volante Limited Edition released last year. This dial however, doesn’t get the subtle gradient effect. It’s a solid tone of indigo blue that’s reminiscent of my favorite Mr. Sketch scented marker color I used during my kindergarten days. Although similar in color, I’m sure the dial, and the entire watch for that matter, won’t have the nostalgic Mr. Sketch Fruit Punch smell.

It seems that 38mm is the case sizing that Oris goes to for special Big Crown releases, and the Big Crown Calibre 473 is no different. It stands next to the 38mm solid gold Wings of Hope LE, the Cervo Volante LE, and the Big Crown Pointer Date Cal 403, which highlighted the first time Oris offered the 403 within a regular production model. Their ‘Change for the Better’ program is not lost with this release, as the watch delivers a Cervo Volante sustainable deer leather strap equipped with a new steel butterfly deployant clasp.

Continuing with the theme of traditions, Oris has made it one to start the year off strong with an intriguing release. The pointer date function and small seconds at six has been an Oris design I’ve been fond of ever since I started looking into vintage Oris timepieces during the beginning of getting into the hobby. The 38mm case sizing is just as attractive as the dial, which despite all the markers and hands, keeps its balance and legibility. As for the movement, there’s no signature red rotor or a Oris bear silhouette cleverly designed via movement components seen in the Cal 403 (still don’t know if this is intentional), but a power reserve indicator that puts on display what the humble Höltstein watch brand is capable of doing in terms of uniqueness within their catalog and movement design.

With the introduction of the brand’s tenth in-house movement, the Oris Big Crown Calibre 473 stands among the higher-tier in terms of price within the Big Crown collection, coming in at $4,400. For more information on the Big Crown Calibre 473, head on over to Oris.

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Thomas is a budding writer and an avid photographer by way of San Diego, California. From his local surf break to mountain peaks and occasionally traveling to destinations off the beaten path, he is always searching for his next adventure, with a watch on wrist, and a camera in hand. Thomas is a watch enthusiast through and through; having a strong passion for their breadth of design, historical connection, and the stories that lie within each timepiece.
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