Hands-On: the Albishorn Type 10 Chronograph

I’ve reached the age where I regularly feel the temptation to say things along the lines of “back in the day…” This applies to various things, such as life without smartphones, dial-up modems, and Napster, among others, but occasionally, it also applies to watches. You see, it wasn’t that long ago that things were quite different. Dive watches were all north of 40mm, in-house movements were rare under $5k, microbrands were dismissed as a passing trend, and, most relevantly to this review, mechanical chronographs under a certain price were primarily powered by Valjoux 7750s or a close variant. With sub-dials at 12, 6, and 9, day-dates at three, two-pushers, cam-actuated, and always automatic, approachably priced mechanical chronographs were limited in their design options. Even 3, 6, 9 layouts were rare, powered by 7753s or ETA 2894s, and often limited to Swatch group brands.

The point is that in 2025, it’s almost hard to imagine a world of such limited chronograph options. Today, thanks largely to Sellitta, 3, 9, and 3, 6, 9 layouts are typical (I actually miss 12, 6, 9 now), monopushers are no big deal, manual winding is an option, flybacks, GMTs, and even column-wheels are on the table. Simply put, it’s a good time to be a chronograph fan. Yet, even in this golden-age of chronographs (ok, that might be a stretch), there is room to stand out.

Enter Albishorn, which launched in 2024 with a series of chronographs powered by a bespoke movement, based on a fun revisionist-history concept. Currently available in three lines: Air, Water, and Earth, each design is meant to be a historical watch that never existed, generally predating some well-known concept. There is the Maxigraph made in collaboration with MASSENA Lab, which is meant to be a proto-regatta timer and sits in the “Sea” line. The Thundergraph, from the “Earth” line, is what a chronograph that ascended Everest with Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay could have looked like. While those two are looser concepts based on broader themes, the Type 10, which represents the “Ai”r segment, is designed to be a predecessor to the famous Type 20 military pilot’s chronographs.

Founded by Sébastien Chaulmontet, a well-regarded movement engineer with 10 patents to his name, who is currently the Head of Innovation and Marketing at Sellitta and previously worked with Le Joux Perret and Arnold & Son, Albishorn comes with a rare pedigree in movements. So, while the brand and watch concept is novel, what truly sets them apart is the ALB02 M caliber. A manual wound chronometer-rated monopusher chronograph, it features two sub-registers, as well as a patented “chronograph function indicator.” It’s also on the thin side for a modern chronograph, measuring 5.7mm, which allows for a thinner overall watch.

A sleek design, available with either a black or green dial, the Type 10 is the most approachable of Albishorn’s catalog, featuring classic military looks with a twist. Priced at 3,950 CHF (about $4,900 USD at the time of writing), the Type 10 is also a rare value given its bespoke, Swiss-made, chronometer-rated chronograph caliber. Something you’d typically find at much higher prices.

Case

The Type 10 case is relatively straightforward in appearance, save the oddly placed crown and oversized pusher, with some nice details and a very bold bezel. Measuring 39mm (41.7mm at the bezel) x 47.7mm x 12mm with the domed crystal and 11.06mm without, it’s well-sized. The height is a standout as modern mechanical chronos at comparable prices are typically a millimeter or more taller, which is definitely noticeable. The Type 10 further conceals its height by featuring a relatively thin mid-case, along with a thicker bezel and caseback.

The bezel visually dominates from above. It’s wide, overhanging the 39mm mid-case, concave, and gloss black to the edge. It’s striking, and gives ample room for a milled index of numerals, dots, lines, and a large triangle, the latter two of which are lume-filled. It’s an attractive index with a technical look. It seems that more of the original Type 20s either had no markings on their bezels or 12-hour markings, so this index makes sense as a predecessor as well. In terms of functionality, it’s a bi-directional friction bezel with a very stiff, smooth, and reassuring action. I’m a fan of friction bezels, although not all of them feel great. This is one of the best I’ve felt.

From the side, the unique shape of the bezel is more apparent. The top surface slopes down to meet the domed sapphire crystal, which is an uncommon design. Although it wasn’t an issue during my time with the watch, I wonder if the acute angle where the crystal and bezel meet could lead to a buildup of dirt. The edge of the bezel is quite thin and has coining for traction. Due to the texture and overhang, it’s very easy to get a solid grip.

The mid-case has a classic shape with smooth, tapering lugs that are emphasized by wide, polished bevels. This invokes the cases of Breguet Type 20s, while also having the effect of visually narrowing the lugs. The polished area contrasts with radial brushing on the tops of the lugs, and horizontal brushing on the midcase, all of which are well executed with sharp edges. Flipping the watch over you’ll find a solid case with minimal markings. Part of me wishes the movement was visible, but it wouldn’t be in keeping with the concept, so I can appreciate the conceptual reasoning for keeping it hidden.

The most peculiar aspects of the design are the crown at 10.5 and the large, red, rectangular pusher that spans from 9 to 10. This design choice has functional, practical, and aesthetic implications. In terms of function, having a large, single pusher on the left side, assuming the watch is worn on the left wrist, makes it very easy to actuate with the right thumb. The crown position makes winding and setting somewhat awkward, but not to the point of being a problem. With that said, the long “T” shape was well-considered to allow for easy grasping of the crown, as well as the ability to wind it without obstruction. Given the position, this extended shape also doesn’t cause any discomfort.

Practically, the positioning of the crown and pusher is due to the rotation of the movement, which allows for the unique sub-dial layout. This is a clever trick that makes the movement design appear a bit more exotic than it is. If you imagine the crown at three, then the pusher is around 2, which is normal, and the sub-dials would be at 12 and 9, indicating that the movement has a typical 7750 layout, minus the hour totalizer.

Aesthetically, the crown/pusher positioning is a quick indicator that the Type 10 isn’t your ordinary chronograph. The pusher, a large rectangle with a raised, textured portion, is entirely made of red anodized aluminum and doesn’t immediately make the watch appear to be a chronograph. It almost looks like a crown guard or other protective element. Though making the pusher red might seem like a choice to make it a bolder element, the color is darker than steel, having the opposite effect. The result is that, at a glance, the case seems almost lacking a crown and pusher, and thus, not a chronograph. I’m always a fan of “sleeper” watches, and this seems to qualify the Type 10 as one. It’s more than meets the eye.

Dial

Like the case, the dial of the Type 10 riffs on classic elements, adding just enough personality to be unique. A military design at heart, legibility, and simplicity are the guiding rules. The dial is a single surface with large Arabic numerals for the hours in a wide, sans-serif typeface, skipping 4, 5, 7, and 8 for sub-dials. The numerals are printed in warm, cream-toned Super LumiNova, giving them an aged effect while also providing very good contrast. Circling the perimeter is an index in white with numerals at intervals of five, long lines per minute/second, and smaller sub-second marks between. The markings are relatively small, but still legible. Plus, the bezel can act as a more prominent minute index if needed.

The dial’s surface features an aggressive crackling texture and a matte finish. This kind of texture has grown on me. Although I used to find it a bit too fake-looking, in this context, it can either work toward an aged or rugged feel. The sub-dials, tangent to 4.5 and 7.5, dominate the lower half of the dial and serve as a visual centerpiece to the design. Sized about as large as they could be, the uncommon positioning of the sub-dials makes the Type 10 feel even more like an aviation instrument than a standard chronograph layout would. They appear less like “sub-dials” and more like little meters. Featuring a 30-minute counter on the left and active seconds on the right, the sub-dials feature indexes in white, both with six lumed marks. Although they are not exactly symmetrical, the attempt to mirror the indexes results in a balanced feel.

The dial of the Type 10 features a unique hidden element that is only visible while the chronograph is in operation. Between the 12 numerals and the Albishorn logo is an aperture that shows one of three colors at any given time: black, red, and white. This color coding system is designed to indicate the current state of the chronograph. When it’s black, the chronograph isn’t running. It’s also hidden behind the lume-pip of the chrono-seconds hand at this point, so you can only see it from an angle. When the chronograph is active, the dot is red, and when stopped but not reset, it’s white.

This is more of a “it’s cool that it’s there” complication than a particularly practical one, particularly on a monopusher. Some possible uses would be if the chrono hand is not at 0/60, yet not moving, the color could indicate if the watch has run out of power, versus the chronograph being stopped. Similarly, if the hand is stopped exactly at 0/60 and the dot is white, you know you have to press it twice to start it again. If it had been a traditional two-pusher chronograph, the white dot could indicate that it’s safe to hit reset as well.

A well-balanced and generally symmetrical dial (although not exactly), it’s attractive, effective, and unique thanks to its sub-dial layout, albeit still easily identifiable as military-inspired. The fence post hour and minute hands are easy to see at a glance, as is the stick seconds, all featuring lume for visibility in the dark. The leaf hands on the sub-dials are a nice touch as they allow for more lume than typical shapes, while not looking too large either. My one potential gripe is the lume color. While I think it looks good, it leans into the fauxtina realm, which I don’t feel this watch needs, even if it’s meant to be an “old” concept. I would have preferred C3 lume, personally, as it glows the brightest of any lume color, yet resembles tritium slightly.

Movement

As mentioned in the intro, the Type 10 is powered by a bespoke movement called the ALB02 M. Based on the Valjoux 7750, it has been heavily modified with new components to achieve Albishorn’s goals, which include being thinner overall, having a lower hand height, having a long power reserve, a smooth monopusher (in terms of feel), and the patented running indicator. To achieve this, the ALB02 M features a customized main plate, cams, levers, axes, a canon pinion, and a barrel. Additionally, all components of the patented running indicator are the brand’s design. The result is a 5.7mm thick chronograph with a 65-hour power reserve housed in an 11.06mm case before the crystal. For comparison, a comparable manual-wound Sellita chronograph is 7mm thick, and a standard 7750 has about a 45-hour reserve.

In terms of feel, the monopusher actuation is noticeably lighter than a standard 7750, which has a substantial click and requires a firm push to start, stop, and reset. The ALB02 M has a lighter click on start, more akin to a column-wheel than a cam, almost none on the stop, and a very light click again on reset. Though I’ve never found the pushers on 7750s or SW500s too firm for use, in comparison, they do feel a bit unrefined next to the ALB02 M. A subtle upgrade, but an upgrade indeed. Otherwise, the ALB02 M features 21-jewels, hacking, hand-winding (only), and a frequency of 28,800 bph. It’s also chronometer-certified by COSC.

Straps and Wearability

The Type 10 comes with two leather straps: one in black and the other in a pale, golden tan. Aside from the color, the straps are identical, measuring 20mm at the lug and tapering to 18mm at the buckle, and being made from the same leather, which features an appealing grain. They are nice, supple straps that suit the watch well enough. I particularly like the golden tan option as it nearly perfectly matches the lume color while making the black bezel pop. That said, I would rather straps of different types, like leather and nylon, for more versatility, though it’s uncommon to come with two straps to begin with, so I shouldn’t complain.

The Type 10 wears very well, especially for a modern mechanical chronograph. It’s a well-considered medium size that fits my 6.75” wrist fairly ideally for something with a bit more presence. The bezel, in particular, is striking, utilizing its extra width to make an impact without making the watch feel larger. The height is also very pleasant. At no time did the watch feel thick or top-heavy. The crown position also helps prevent digging into the wrist or sleeve snag, especially when worn on the left wrist, thereby adding to overall comfort. For right-wrist wearers, the crown should still be in a comfortable position.

Aesthetically, it’s a great-looking variation on a pilot theme. If military-styled watches appeal to you, the Type 10 will make sense. It’s bold, yet not loud, legible, yet not dull. It has a ruggedness to it, evident in the dial and bezel, but also a refinement in the case finishing. It might not make the most sense with formal attire, but it looks great with everyday casual wear like jeans, or anything vaguely military in style.

Conclusion

Priced at 3,950 CHF, the Albishorn Type 10 is not an inexpensive watch; yet, it offers excellent value relative to what you’re getting, particularly in terms of the movement. Although we’ve seen more movement modifications by indie brands recently, they are rarely on chronographs, due to their complexity and cost. Given brand founder Sébastien Chaulmontet’s background, as well as his passion for chronographs, Albishorn was able to achieve something no other brand at the same scale has. The only brands that come to mind at a similar price point are Sinn, Hanhart, and Damasko, all of which are older and larger in size or output. Otherwise, you’d have to jump up to Habring2 at about double the price.

Sometimes, when you put a watch on for the first time, you just know it clicks. That was the case with the Albishorn Type 10 for me, though it happened first at a bar in Geneva. As a fan of chronographs, particularly ones with a little something special, the odd dial layout and oversized left-side pusher spoke to me. It felt familiar, evoking some of my favorite tool watch brands, yet not like a repeat of any of them either. In a day where pilots’ watches have become a dime a dozen and generally follow the same formula, it’s great to see some new ideas, particularly from an independent. I have my fingers crossed for a central minutes chronograph in the future. Albishorn