Watches & Wonders: Bulgari Launches an Octo Finissimo in 37mm

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo is a certifiably unique watch that you can identify on someone’s wrist from across a room. Part of this is because of its exotic integrated design, and the other part is that they are kind of huge, despite being very thin. That contrast has always been part of the appeal, but also part of the problem.

For years, the Octo Finissimo has represented an avant-garde take on modern watch design. Thin, minimal, architectural, and kind of brutal, it exists as a distant relative of a Genta-era idea, but pushed into something more experimental. It has also built its reputation on technical achievement, frequently contending for the world’s thinnest watch, and holding that title more than once over the last decade.

But this year, Bulgari isn’t focused on thinness. Instead, they’ve turned their attention to something far more practical: wearability. For the first time since the line launched in 2014, Bulgari has introduced a smaller “consumer” model, bringing the Octo Finissimo down to 37mm. On paper, that might not sound like much. In practice, it changes everything.

The standard 40mm models were always a bit deceptive. While 40mm is not particularly large for a round watch, the Octo Finissimo is anything but round. These watches are essentially flat squares with wide integrated lugs, creating a large corner-to-corner span and a cuff-like presence on the wrist. The result is a watch that wears significantly larger than its width suggests.

It’s a look that is undeniably provocative, but also one that, for many wrists, just never quite worked, mine included. The proportions could feel off, the fit awkward, and the overall experience slightly at odds with how refined the watch appears at first glance. The new 37mm model addresses that directly. Normally, a size reduction isn’t the most exciting update, but here it fundamentally changes the equation. 37mm is a sweet spot in general, but given the Octo Finissimo’s geometry, the difference is massive. What once felt borderline unwearable now feels extremely appealing.

At the smaller scale, the design becomes more restrained. The sharp lines and faceted surfaces are still there, but they no longer overwhelm the wrist. In matte titanium, especially, the watch feels balanced in a way the larger version never quite did.

Interestingly, the 37mm model is also slightly thicker. Not by much, but enough to notice. And rather than detracting from the watch, it actually improves it. The 40mm version is so flat that it can feel a bit strange. The added thickness gives the 37mm a touch more substance, making it feel more grounded and complete. That increase in thickness is not just about proportions. It comes from a new movement, and this is where things get particularly interesting.

The 37mm model introduces the Bulgari BVF100 caliber, an ultra-thin micro-rotor automatic designed specifically for the smaller case. The previous 40mm models used the Bulgari BVL138 caliber, a remarkably thin movement at just 2.23mm, but also quite large in diameter at 36.6mm. That size was a key reason the watch itself needed to be 40mm.

The new BVF100 reduces the diameter to 31mm, representing roughly a 20 percent reduction in volume, while only increasing thickness by 0.12mm. That’s about the thickness of a sheet of paper. At the same time, Bulgari has managed to increase the power reserve to 72 hours.

That combination is rare. Ultra-thin movements under 2.5mm are uncommon to begin with. Ultra-thin automatic movements are even rarer. And achieving that with a 72-hour power reserve is, as far as I can tell, nearly unheard of.

It’s a reminder that, while Bulgari might not be the first brand that comes to mind when thinking about modern horology, that might be a mistake. They take movement manufacturing very seriously, and in many ways, it’s the pursuit of movement innovation that drives the design. The fact that this movement didn’t need a 72-hour power reserve, but has one anyway, says a lot about the priorities behind it.

At launch, the 37mm Octo Finissimo is available in matte titanium, brushed titanium, and full gold. These are still expensive watches, priced at $16,600, $17,400, and $48,300 respectively, but when considered alongside competitors like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus, there’s a reasonable argument to be made for their positioning.

More importantly, this new size changes how the Octo Finissimo sits and feels on the wrist. It takes a design that could be challenging and makes it feel far more natural. And that alone makes it a compelling evolution of the line. Bulgari