Seiko SKX007 Review

Today, we’re rectifying a huge omission on our part. After 4 years, we’re finally reviewing the Seiko SKX007. The SKX007 is one of the most iconic divers currently on the market. If the Submariner is the quintessential modern dive watch in the luxury market, then the SKX007 is, without a doubt, its affordable counterpart. The SKX007 is usually the first watch budding collectors buy after making the jump to mechanicals, but it’s also prized by seasoned enthusiasts for its robust build and good looks, ISO-rated case, and epic nighttime luminosity. It has a street price of around $150–depending on the vendor and availability–so it makes for a super solid beater that you don’t have to worry about. But price aside, it’s simply a really well-made watch that’s equal parts versatile and equal parts utilitarian, all from one of the most respected firms on the planet.

The lineage of the 007 can be traced back to Seiko’s earliest divers, starting with the iconic 62MAS and moving through the 6105, 6306/9, and the 7002. First produced in 1996, the SKX007 is one of several modern divers from Seiko powered by the brand’s automatic 7s26 movement. Other variants feature the same case paired with different dial designs and colors, some of which were conceived for specific international markets. There are even variations based on where the watch was manufactured, and some collectors prize the “made in Japan” versions above all others. To become better acquainted with all the available variants, check out this incredibly informative post.

I could honestly end the review here and feel confident simply saying, “Go buy one.” It’s a no-brainer. But this is worn&wound, after all, and it wouldn’t be a review without us geeking out over some of the watch’s finer points. So let’s get into the nitty gritty of it all. The watch reviewed here is my own.

Case

Let’s get the specs out of the way. The SKX007 case comes in at approximately 42.5mm wide, and 45.5mm if you include the crown. The lug width is 22mm, and the lug-to-lug length is a very reasonable and accommodating 46mm, so it should wear comfortably on a wide range of wrists. It is a bit of a thick watch at 13.25mm, a relatively common trait with Seiko divers. Regardless, the watch wears quite well and doesn’t sit too high off the wrist. The ISO-rated case boasts an impressive 200m of water resistance.

The case of the SKX007 is wholly unique to Seiko and represents a natural progression of the design going back several models. Aesthetically, it’s similar to the case of its predecessor, the 7002, which in turn featured a slimmed down version of the turtle-shaped case of the 6309.

The overall design of the case is quite soft; there are no hard lines or transitions between sections or finishes. The sides of the case are highly polished, with the tops of the lugs featuring a fine-brushed finish. There’s a slight bevel where the case meets the bezel, and it extends all the way down to the lugs. The large crown is positioned at 4 o’clock, and it’s flanked by a set of prominent crown guards beautifully integrated into the flow of the case. The unsigned crown is quite large and features coin edging, but due to the height of the crown guards it can be quite difficult to operate. Sitting atop of the case is a chamfered crystal made from Seiko’s proprietary Hardlex material, a type of hardened mineral crystal that offers greater resistance against shattering, though it is more scratch prone than sapphire.

The 120-click bezel is extremely well executed. It features a two-tiered groove pattern that allows for a sure grip, and the bezel action is truly impeccable. At this price point you normally get some wobble or less than stellar action. Not the case here. It’s smooth, with sure clicks and without any significant play. It feels like the bezel of a much more expensive watch. The insert is black aluminum with silver markers for each minute going all the way around the bezel. The lume pip, centered at 60, is shielded.

Flipping the watch around, you’ll see the screw down solid case back with Seiko’s stamped Tsunami medallion. The technical specs are etched along the perimeter of the case back.

Dial and Hands

The no-frills dial is purposefully designed and utilitarian, though not without some of Seiko’s signature charm. It features a matte black base with rounded white hour markers, but with two exceptions. The first is the beveled day/date window at 3 o’clock, and the second is the inverted triangle at the 12 o’clock position. Overall, the markers are large and legible, necessities on any professional dive watch.

I’m normally the first to complain about white date wheels against black dials, but I don’t find the application too offensive here. While I would still prefer a matching date wheel and may mod my piece in the future (more on “modding” later), I find that the white aperture, elongated to accommodate both complications, does a good job at matching the longer marker at 9 o’clock, thereby retaining a sense of symmetry on the dial. The day wheel is bilingual (Spanish and English), and Saturday is represented in blue text and Sunday in red. The brand insignia is positioned in the traditional place below the 12 o’clock marker, with the word “AUTOMATIC” right below “SEIKO.” Above the 6 o’clock position is the depth rating, and it reads “DIVER’S 200m” in red, a nice splash of color on the dial. The face of the watch is extended quite a bit by the sloping chapter ring, also black but with silver hash marks representing the minutes/seconds.

The hours and minutes hands are distinctive to Seiko and pull from the brand’s heritage. The hours hand is sword shaped and the minutes hand is a stylized arrow with a broad base; both are needle tipped. They’re also generously filled with luminous material and trimmed in chrome, the latter of which offers a warmer look than what one would get from stainless steel. The seconds hand is a departure for Seiko, in that it has a significantly long counterbalance with a lumed lollipop end bordered in black trim (Seiko divers traditionally featured lumed circles or segments on the front end of the seconds hand). I somewhat like this quirky feature, not because it offers any sort of real utility, but simply because it’s cool to see a “floating” disc move across the dial. The rest of the seconds hand is painted white.

Speaking of lume, the SKX007 features Seiko’s patented LumiBrite solution, known for its impeccable nighttime luminescence. That hands and markers are well packed with the stuff, and it lasts well into the night on a full charge.

Movement

Seiko’s 7s26 movement is a prized workhorse built around 4 primary
moving parts, making it one of the simplest automatic systems around. It features a quickset day/date display, automatic bi-directional winding (via Seiko’s patented Magic Lever system), 21 jewels, a beat rate of 21,600 bph, and it is non-handwinding and non-hacking. Overall, there isn’t much to say about this movement other than that it’s cheap and reliable. In terms of accuracy however, the range is quite large, rated at approximately -20 to +40 seconds per day. The movement can be adjusted to achieve greater accuracy, however, and they sometimes come relatively precise right out of the box (my particular piece runs approximately 4 seconds fast a day).

Straps and Wearability

As already mentioned, the SKX007 is an incredibly versatile watch. It can be purchased on a number of different straps, including a rubber two-piece, a stainless steel oyster bracelet, and a stainless steel jubilee bracelet. I am not the biggest fan of the metal bracelets Seiko uses with their more affordable timepieces, so I opted for the rubber option. It wears comfortably enough, though it is a bit stiff. Naturally, being a dive watch, the SKX007 would look right at home on a nylon military slip-through strap, a great option for the summer.

For those interested in a bracelet, I would recommend the jubilee band from STRAPCODE. It’s a relatively affordable option at about $63, and it looks great paired with the case. I especially love the way the vintage styling of the bracelet dresses the watch up a bit. Plus, it’s heavy and robust, and it features solid end links. My only complaint is that the end links aren’t an exact match to the case, but it’s something that’s only noticeable under extreme scrutiny.

Modding

If you’re new to collecting watches, you might not be aware of modding. You can read our take on it here, but it’s basically what it sounds like. Built around certain watches and movements, one of the most prominent being the SKX007, is a small community of brands supplying aftermarket parts that can be used to change the overall appearance of the watch. These include bezels, dials, hands, chapter rings–you name it. It can be quite fun when you really get into, as the combinations truly are endless. For a supplier of aftermarket parts, visit our friends over at Dagaz Watches.

Conclusion

If you’re making the leap from quartz to mechanicals and aren’t looking to break the bank, there are very few watches I would recommend before the SKX007. Even if you’re just looking for a well-rounded diver to take on your next vacation, there really is no better option. It’s robust and versatile, and with a few extra straps you’ll have a watch you can pair to almost any occasion. If the aesthetics of the 007 aren’t exactly to your liking, it might be worth checking out some of the other variations on the market, which are generally priced the same though some models, like the SKX173, can be a bit more expensive. And remember, you can mod the watch to almost any configuration imaginable, so it can be a solid base for creating the watch you really want.