Hanhart 417 – $2,150
I go about $200 over by picking the Harhart, but if you get a cheaper Oris or barter at your local AD, you can easily get in under $5,000. Basically, it comes down to this. I want a chronograph to round out my collection and it’s really hard to get a manual wind chronograph of any repute into a collection like this at this combined price point. And the Harhart is the perfect complement to the other two watches. It’s got a black dial to go along with the white of the Oris and the blue of the Seiko. It’s German, so your collection has one Swiss piece, one German and one Japanese. This Harhart is an absolutely gorgeous, understated, bi-compax chronograph that looks both modern and vintage at the same time. It’s 42mm diameter and 13.3mm thick, so very wearable for a chronograph. The bit of red on the bezel is great and would allow the watch to go with multiple nato or sailcloth straps, but it looks bad ass on the black leather bund strap that the watch comes with. My only regret is that the watch has a coin edged bezel, which is a bit too closely reminiscent of the Oris, but that’s a nitpick. the watch also has a solid history behind it with the first 417 debuting back in the 1950s. Finally, the 58 hours of power reserve from the Sellita SW 510 mean that you don’t have to wear the watch every day to avoid winding it every time you pick it up.