We reached the point long ago where even the most dedicated Grand Seiko fans and collectors could be expected to keep up with the many, many different dial textures. Intricate textured dials are, at least as much as their famous Zaratsu polishing technique and fantastic family of movements, the thing that Grand Seiko has become most well known for during these last several years that have seen the brand grow at an extraordinary pace. I know for me personally, it’s all a little overwhelming, and while I love seeing all of the new textures and colors pop in watches as the collection grows, I remain biased toward one in particular that caught my eye at the beginning of my own interest in the brand. The first Grand Seiko I ever owned had a black “Mt. Iwate” textured dial, and for me it’s still the standard by which I judge all of the others against. That Mt. Iwate texture, to me, is just the right balance of eye catching and incredibly subtle – it can’t be detected at every angle, which is one of my favorite things about it. It’s also historically taken something of a backseat to the “Snowflake” and “Birch” textures, so it appeals to my natural tendency to root for the underdog.
Given my longstanding appreciation for the Mt. Iwate dial, I was happy to see news of the latest Grand Seiko release, the SLGH027, which brings a tweaked version of the Mt. Iwate texture to the Evolution 9 series of watches. The new texture, which appears to have thicker “ridges” representing the rugged volcanic mountain than the original version of the dial, is presented here in a light blue color that is meant to evoke a view of Mt. Iwate from the sky. If the dial’s look doesn’t particularly conjure images of mountains in the mind’s eye, you can think of it as a stylized version of a more traditional “sunray” finished dial, with the texture emanating from the dial’s center. As always with Grand Seiko, it’s not necessary to connect the dial design directly to the element of the natural world that the brand has associated with it in order to enjoy it. You’ll either like the way it looks or you won’t, regardless of the design inspiration.
That said, the Mt. Iwate dial does have a real relationship to the brand and their watchmaking. Mt. Iwate is visible from Grand Seiko’s facilities at Studio Shizukuishi, a location that specializes in mechanical watchmaking, specifically, as opposed to quartz and Spring Drive movements, which are manufactured elsewhere. The Mt. Iwate dial has always appeared on watches with Grand Seiko’s high beat rate movements, and that tradition continues with the SLGH027, which runs on Caliber 9SA5, the brand’s next generation high frequency movement with 80 hours of power reserve, a Dual Impulse Escapement, and elaborate finishing. It makes complete sense that for Mt. Iwate’s debut in Evolution 9, Grand Seiko would revamp the design and center it around the 9SA5.
The Ever-Brilliant Steel case is in the now familiar Evolution 9 form factor that represents an updating of the brand’s design language that can be traced back to the 44GS style cases of the late 1960s. It measures 40mm in diameter and 11.7mm tall, and is mounted to a three link bracelet with a three-fold clasp design and push button release. The Evolution 9 watches have always been conceived as practical, daily wear pieces, and to that end the SLGH027 has a full 100 meters of water resistance.
The SLGH027 is a limited edition of 1,200 pieces. If you know Grand Seiko’s release strategy, it’s easy to speculate that at some point this dial design will be offered in additional colors as part of the permanent collection, so if the light blue seen here is not to your taste, this is where the waiting game begins. The retail price of the SLGH027 is $10,500, and it will be available beginning in May at Grand Seiko boutiques and authorized retailers. Grand Seiko