Back to Basics with the Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome”

Some things are worth the wait. Though the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT will likely get the most press from the brand’s releases at this year’s Watches & Wonders event, the release of a stripped-down, monochromatic, black and silver, 41mm Black Bay is no less significant. Why? Well, it’s the most obvious colorway for a dive watch, which means it’s bound to be a classic.

First launched in 2012, the 41mm Black Bay (just called “Black Bay”) is the watch that reestablished Tudor after some time in horological purgatory. Perfectly timed to ride the wave of vintage-inspired aesthetics that dominated for the decade hence, it showed that Tudor unliked their sister brand, Rolex, was willing to be a bit trendier and fun. Originally powered by ETA movements, it was the first to receive Tudor’s in-house caliber in 2016 and then underwent a third iteration in 2023 when it received the upgraded Master Chronometer certification (and technically a new caliber), as well as a slight redesign in the form of an updated handset, crown, and profile.

With the introduction of the Black Bay 58, GMT, and 54 models, new versions of the Black Bay slowed down. Several different colors have been available, from the original burgundy bezel to a steel bezel with date to two-tone models. Yet, despite its tenure, the most obvious model never existed. The model most dive watches come in as a given: simple black—black bezel, black dial, white lume, white or silver markers. No gilt, no red, no fuss.

There’s not that much else to say about the new design other than that it looks really good—like, shockingly good. It’s clean and striking in its simplicity. Though a model we’re all very familiar with, it looked completely new and fresh. The trappings of vintage pastiche, even in subtly off-white lume, are gone, leaving behind the essence of a watch that has earned the title of a contemporary classic.

As this is the third generation of Black Bay, it benefits from the new MT5602-U caliber and is METAS certified, denoted by “master chronometer” on the dial. A rigorous testing standard, it guarantees 0/+5 seconds per day variance, precision in six positions and two levels of power reserve (100% and 33%), and functionality within a magnetic field. Tudor’s in-house movements were already fairly impressive in accuracy and robustness before this new standard was implemented. This takes them to a new and impressive level, especially at their price point.

I believe Tudor waited so long to bring out the Black Bay in classic black because of the master chronometer standard. Though this is purely speculation, it makes sense that they waited to reach this level of certification, which will likely not be surpassed for some time.

This is the Black Bay in its most perfected form yet. The design has been refined, and the movement tuned. Contentious details like the crown tube are gone, and trendy details like the red triangle on the bezel and faux-gilt print have been left behind. There are three ideal strap options, including two bracelets, all with their exceptional T-Fit micro-adjustment clasp. It’s the Black Bay matured, and it’s darn near perfect.

Will we see the first Black Bay 58 Master Chronometer (other than the GMT) revealed in similar stripped-down trappings? Well, I know better than to predict Tudor launches, but logic would suggest it. The Black Bay “monochrome” will be available soon from Tudor retailers with a starting price of 3,950 CHF. Tudor