Grand Seiko Returns to an Iconic Red Dial with the SBGJ273

This isn’t exactly breaking news, but Grand Seiko releases a lot of watches. Over the last few years, during a period of growth that those of us who were fans of the brand before they split off from Seiko could only have dreamed of, they’ve even been accused of spinning their wheels somewhat, releasing endless variants of variants, in a sea of interchangeable colors and case shapes. I think a case can probably be made that the collection could use some refining, and that fewer special editions might do the brand some good. But at the same time, I love that they give customers options. I think about a new, first time Grand Seiko buyer walking into a boutique and being able to choose from a selection of watches that is basically unmatched, getting exactly what they want, or pretty close to it in any case. One potential middle ground between a sudden halt to novelties and placing renewed attention on core models and continuing to move down the path they’re on currently is a release like the new SBGJ273, a dressy GMT with one of the brand’s best movements, and a dial that has proven to be an elusive fan favorite. 

Before we get into the new watch, it’s worth examining one from a few years ago, the SBGH269. This watch, released in the fall of 2019 as a limited edition of 900, was meant to evoke the changing color of fall leaves with its red dial. Furthermore, the pattern on the dial, modeled after wood paneled floors, was completely unique to this reference. The combination of an unusual color (red is always tough to pull off, and a rare color for Grand Seiko) and a dial texture that hadn’t already been repeated dozens of times made the SBGH269 the rare Grand Seiko limited edition to truly pop. This watch is still highly sought after, and when they come up on the secondary market (typically at a premium over retail), they don’t last long. Grand Seiko releases so many novelties over the course of a year, the ones that have some longevity with collectors and the larger watch community are worth pointing out. 

So, for the new SBGJ273, Grand Seiko has effectively ported the dial of the SBGH269 into a different case, this one from the Elegance Collection. The 39.5mm stainless steel case is modeled after the very first Grand Seiko, produced in 1960, and lacks the dramatic highly polished facets that would become the brand’s signature only a few years later. Still, it’s classically beautiful, and a nice medium size that in theory should suit just about anyone. 

Owners of the SBGH269 might be perturbed somewhat that their rare red dial is being repurposed for a new watch that will be a permanent part of the collection. I get it, but I think that the earlier watch presents very differently. The SBGH269, in its 44GS case, is really all about the interplay of the geometry between the lines of the dial and the case itself. It’s much more contemporary in its sensibility than the SBGJ273, which of course is also a GMT, adding a layer of functionality and some well executed fussiness to the dial execution. It’s busier, and even though the case is ostensibly from the dressier side of Grand Seiko’s catalog, it feels more like a tool than the SBGH269, which almost feels like sculpture by comparison. 

I’m something of a sucker for a red dial, and I quite like Grand Seiko’s 9S86 caliber, a high frequency GMT movement has proven to be exceptionally reliable over the years, so this watch is right up my alley. I think that going back to the well, and reintroducing non limited versions of watches that incorporate elements from some of their more collectible modern pieces could be a good turn for the brand, and it would be fun to see how they reintroduce some of those dials in new contexts. 

The SBGJ273 has a retail price of $7,100. Grand Seiko