Grand Seiko’s Latest Sporty GMT Puts a Familiar Style in a New Package

Grand Seiko’s 9F powered quartz GMTs have become cult favorites since their release a few years ago. The SBGN003 and SBGN005 might initially beg comparisons to another, better known, sports watch with similar styling made by a little brand based in Geneva with a crown logo. But after spending some time with either SBGN GMT, it’s very clear that in spite of the brushed steel bezel counting off a full 24 hours, the watches themselves are very much their own thing. Of course, they’re finished to Grand Seiko’s uncompromising specs, have a compact wearability that we’ve never heard anyone complain about, and that 9F derived movement is scarily accurate. If you’ve been curious about the SBGN003 or 005, but for some reason bristled at the thought of spending luxury watch dollars on something that runs on a battery, Grand Seiko has just announced a pair of GMTs that are definitely worth checking out, and seem uncannily familiar. 

The SBGM245 (with a blue dial) and SBGM247 (in hunter green) can most easily be understood as very slightly different variations on the SBGN models referenced above. They have the same dial layout (including laser cut hands and hour markers), the same locked 24 hour bezel in brushed stainless steel, and the same endlessly practical GMT complication (complete with local jumping hours). What’s different about these watches is that they’re powered by an automatic movement, the 9S66. This caliber has a power reserve of 72 hours and is rated to +5/-3 seconds per day when static. Not exactly 9F numbers, but then practically nothing but 9F is capable of 9F numbers. 

The case of the new SBGM watches also differs from the SBGNs. It’s still very much in Grand Seiko’s sportiest lane, perhaps even moreso. The diameter has gone up to 40.5mm (the quartz models are just under 40mm) and the case lines appear to be a bit more muscular and suggestive of classic Seiko dive watches. In fact, it appears to be identical (or very close to) the case of the SBGE225, reviewed here. The crown and date have both moved to 4:00, as well. The crown placement is certainly traditional for historic Seiko and Grand Seiko references, so this doesn’t feel particularly controversial. We’ll let those with strongly held opinions on date window placement fight it out in the comments. 

Even though Grand Seiko tries to release a mix of styles across their movement families so that proponents of any of their movement styles can find something they like, we have to admit it’s a little strange to see something so close to a previously released watch turning up in this way. That said, at this point the design itself has proven to be successful and popular with Grand Seiko customers, so there’s a certain logic in making a similar, sporty GMT available with an automatic movement. We’re looking forward to seeing these in the metal to further compare them to the existing quartz models. 

The SBGM245 and SBGM247 go on sale in November at a retail price of $5,700. Grand Seiko