Vertex is an historic brand that has been revived in recent years. Perhaps most famous as one of the twelve manufactures who produced the famed “Dirty Dozen” watches for the British military during World War II, Vertex has been relaunched to produce watches in much the same military style. The MP45 is a robust, aviation inspired chronograph, with a single pusher at the 2:00 position. The movement is a Sellita SW510MP, which is actually a relatively new caliber in the Sellita catalog. With a modern movement and sizing (the MP45 measures 40mm in diameter, but the asymetric case results in it wearing larger than its dimensions would indicate) this handwound monopusher is a throwback watch that can withstand the modern daily grind.
~ $3,600 – Check it out here
Longines Monopusher Chronograph Ref. L2.800.4.53.0
Longines gets an immense amount of well deserved credit for the way in which they’ve expertly raided their own archives through their Heritage Collection. Year after year, they return to their back catalog and repurpose a great old design in a new package, and have become one of the faces of the “new-vintage” movement as a result. The L2.800.4.53.0, a dressy monopusher with the chronograph actuator fitted to the 3:00 crown, was an early standout in the brand’s push to revive their classics. Released in 2015, the Longines L2.800.4.53.0 is a column wheel chronograph with two registers, a date at 6:00, and automatic winding. Like other chronographs in this guide, it takes styling cues from classic chronos of the 1940s, when this complication was far more common. The movement here is a modified Valjoux 7750, one of the most reliable chronograph movements in existence, and a frequent target of being rearranged to suit the needs of intrepid designers who want to squeeze just a bit more utility out of it.
$3,150 – Check it out here
Montblanc 1858 Monopusher
We live in the generation of the big luxury group having a near stranglehold on the high end watch industry, and the impact of giant corporations swallowing up formerly independent brands can’t be understated. This phenomenon impacts everything from watch design to the retail experience, and the corporate meshing of luxury brands has created some strange bedfellows over the years.
One of the strangest, but also one of the best, is the relationship between Montblanc, longtime maker of fine writing instruments, and Minerva, one of the great movement makers, with a specialty in chronographs. While these two brands have no real shared history at all before Richemont’s acquisition of Minerva in 2006 and subsequent forced marriage of sorts a year later, they’ve become an important piece of the Richemont watchmaking portfolio, with both brands being bolstered through the partnership. The 1858 Monopusher, limited to just 100 pieces and featuring a love it or hate it green dial, is a classically styled chronograph, resembling watches that Minerva would have produced under its own name in the 1940s. The movement, caliber MB M13.21 is the obvious star of the show, and represents a type of old world craftsmanship that is rarely seen on modern watches.
$30,000 – Check it out here