Latest Review
Heinrich, the Stuttgart based indie brand known for reinterpreting classic watch designs of the 1970s (sometimes with lots of color) is back with their latest release, the Radiance. This latest effort from Heinrich is a new take on the dress watch (a trend we’ve been spotting more and more in recent months), and it’s interesting to see the brand’s distinct design language applied to a genre of watch that, on the one hand, they aren’t typically known for, and on the other is also not what we think of when we think of “watches of the 1970s.” That’s perhaps oversimplifying things a bit: Heinrich has made watches that aren’t completely over the top tool and sports watches before (put one of these Helicoprions with a stone dial on a strap, and you’ll be ready for almost any cocktail party), and of course there were plenty of dress watches made in the 1970s and 80s, but it’s fair to say that most of the watch designs pulled from those decades veer toward the sporty.
Back to the Radiance, the prevailing idea here seems to be an experimentation on the brand’s part with softer lines and a clean, simple case. The case is stainless steel and 38.5mm in diameter and just 8mm tall thanks to the use of an ETA 7001 manually wound movement. Those are dress watch proportions, to be sure, and the lugs have been gently curved as well to make the watch wear closer to the wrist. Again, dress watch DNA. Finishing is a mix of brushing and polishing, with a clearly defined polished facet running down each case flank, and giving the lugs a classic twisted shape.
Heinrich says the dials have been inspired by classic sector dial designs. Available in four color options (white, blue, green, and orange), the center section of each dial has a prominent, undulating sunburst finish graduated for each hour. This is a cool looking effect and one I haven’t seen executed in exactly this way before. The outer sector is characterized by what appears to be a new interpretation of Heinrich’s trademark “buzzsaw” pattern, here seen in a more refined and dress watch appropriate execution. This is a design note straight out of 1970s sports watches and almost feels like a brand signature at this point, so it’s nice to see it pop up here in a slightly different form.
While the inspiration for the Radiance might be the dress watch, Heinrich has still specced this release for easy everyday wear. It’s 100 meters water resistant despite the lack of a screw down crown, so it should be safe for the rain, dishwashing, and even a swim. And while the Radiance is available on a strap, it can also be ordered on a harder wearing steel bracelet. And the dial is also lumed, with Super-LumiNova BGW9 plots at each hour, and coated on the hands.
Heinrich is one of those small independent brands that very quietly puts out consistently creative and well made watches. It’s fun to see them release a watch that feels a bit more subdued than some of their other recent output, which saw a real experimentation with materials. And while I hope they continue down that purely creative path that led to watches made with stone dials and colored, lumed carbon, there’s something to be said for proving you can make something relatively straightforward as well.
The new Heinrich Radiance has a retail price of $1,118. The first edition is limited to 100 pieces. Heinrich
