Introducing the Return of the Seiko SUS Collection (Refs. SCXP155, SCXP157, SCXP158, SCXP159, SCXP161, SCXP163, and SCXP165)

Seiko is once again digging into their archive to release a new version of the SUS line of watches. SUS, you’ll recall (or maybe you won’t, given the dizzying number of watches in Seiko’s back catalog), is a sort-of acronym for “Simple” and “Strong.” This was a series of watches that was targeted directly at young consumers, a market that in the mid-90s Seiko felt was being left behind. Seiko brass sought guidance from two young, up-and-coming engineers on staff to help with the youth demographic, and the SUS series was born. Ilya discussed some of these watches here back in 2016 in an Affordable Vintage column, but if you’re not inclined to dig through eBay listings and just want the general look and feel of the ‘90s classic without the potential headache of a 25-year-old timepiece, Seiko has you covered. 

• Case Material: Stainless steel; worn black coating; gold-tone coating
• Dial: Black (SCXP155 ), Lumibrite (SCXP157), white dial with gold-tone case (SCXP158), black dial with worn black case (SCXP159), white (SCXP161), green (SCXP163), blue (SCXP165)
• Dimensions: 35mm
• Crystal: Hardlex
• Water Resistance: 10 bar
• Crown: Push/pull
• Movement: 7N01 quartz
• Strap/bracelet: Nylon strap
• Price: ~$180-$230
• Expected Release: Available now

The SUS watches in question are a partnership between Seiko and NANO Universe, a Japanese clothing store, and are JDM only. At a high level, the SUS is an extremely simple watch. Designed for legibility over everything, and inspired by vintage military issued watches, these watches have a look that has literally stood the test of time. 

There are a total of seven unique references in the new SUS collection. The blue, green, and white dialed variants are all limited editions of 300 available only at NANO Universe stores. In the permanent collection, we have a black dial in both steel and a hardened black coating, a white dial in a hardened gold coating, and, my personal favorite, a steel cased SUS with a dial coated entirely in Lumibrite. This one wins for pure ‘90s nostalgia.

In terms of design, these watches have a distinct tool watch feel, but in a compact and discreet size. Measuring at 35mm in diameter, the new SUS models are faithful to the originals, which were small even by ‘90s standards. Remember, though, that these watches were always meant to appeal to a young demographic, and pre-date the “big watch” trend by years. The handset and numerals are clearly inspired by classic navigator watches, with the stub hour hand and large Arabics all around. Each watch is matched with a nylon strap, a choice that bridges the gap between vintage utility and contemporary streetwear fashion. Check out how it fits on the wrist here.

Powering the watches are a Seiko quartz caliber. Again, with the youth market presumably in mind for the modern watch, this decision makes a lot of sense. It keeps the cost down and allows Seiko to focus on design. And if there’s a market out there that wouldn’t seem to have a dog in the fight of quartz versus mechanical, it’s the kids. For everyone else, this remains a smart and reliable grab-and-go option.

There’s no official word from Seiko on eventual availability outside of Japan, but we think the hunt for market specific releases is part of the fun of Seiko collecting anyway. Additional information is available here (run it through your browser’s translator).

Thoughts on the new SUS collection? Let us know below.