Longines Redesigns HydroConquest With New GMT Collection

Longines’ polarizing dive watch collection, the HydroConquest, has received a major overhaul from the Swatch Group brand, featuring a GMT compilation for the first time since 2007. This is still a true dive capable watch through and through, integrating the GMT component in a more subtle manner than you might imagine. As we’ve come to expect from Longines recently, this new collection is kicking off with a plethora of earth tone color schemes, and multiple strap options. There is some retro-inspiration happening here, but this one doesn’t feel like a throwback. If you weren’t fond of the 5 stars of the dial of the Zulu Time, this might be the one you’ve been waiting for. 

The new HydroConquest is built within a steel case that measures 41mm in diameter and 12.9mm in thickness, and places a large rotating bezel assembly front and center. Rather than placing the 24 hour scale on the bezel, they’ve reserved this element for the watch’s diving ambitions, and it is graduated to the minutes as you might expect. The 24 hour scale is moved to the rehaut  at the perimeter of the dial, and is bi-color to separate the halves of the day. It’s a graceful implementation that retains enough functionality to be practical, though perhaps not quite as quick to read at a glance compared to other GMT watches.

Moving into the dial things get a bit more interesting still, with some unusual but welcome decisions being made that help this watch stand on its own. First, the dial doesn’t not feature the HydroConquest family name at all, leaving a simple three lines of text at the bottom of the dial, perhaps a nod to the broad criticisms of text heavy dials. Perhaps the strangest portion of the dial are the hour markers, which are the reverse of what we usually see. The cardinal hours get circular markers (save for the 3 o’clock position, which gets a date… and the 12 o’clock potion, which gets a triangle), while the remainder are represented by bar markers. It’s a slightly jarring look, especially with only two of the circles being present, but almost brings a sense of balance against the date window on the right side of the dial. 

Circular hour markers are nothing new to the HydroConquest, however they are unique here in their pairing against the blocks, and taking the place of the usual oversized numerals we’ve gotten used to seeing in this family. Overall, this is a much cleaner look for the watch, though it may have come at the expense of some of its personality. One other feature that’s been carried over is the shape of the hands, including the diamond at the end of the hour hand.

One of the more subtle features that give a nod to the retro-inspiration is the H-link bracelet, which works quite well with the rest of the design. The bracelet uses a folding clasp and has micro-adjustments built in, though it’s not clear if that can be done on the fly. 

Inside, Longines is using the caliber L844.5 of the same ilk we saw at use within the Spirit Zulu Time in the L844.4, and is a ‘true’ GMT with independently adjustable hour hand for quick adjustments to local time on your travels. The dial will be offered in four colorways: green, brown, black, and blue – each bringing a unique tone and accent colors to the mix.

The new HydroConquest is available now, priced from $2,675 on a NATO strap, and from $2,775 on the rubber strap and steel bracelet option. Longines.