Louis Erard’s Latest Guilloche Dial Combines Traditional Craft with Contemporary Design

It’s pretty rare, but every so often a sequel improves on the original. The Godfather Part II is probably the most frequently cited example of this extremely rare phenomenon, and while some might chime in that it’s part of a trilogy and shouldn’t count, the third installment of the Godfather saga was far from a foregone conclusion in 1974 when II was released, and director Francis Ford Coppola (who also made Jack, never forget) has stated that in his mind, the first two films told a complete story, and he considered it all a done deal. Anyway, the point here is simply that it’s very uncommon for lightning to strike twice, and the same would seem to be true for watches. Brands frequently go back to the well, releasing new, slightly changed variants of existing watches that were bona fide hits. The new watch from Louis Erard, the Excellence Guilloché Main II, is named like a sequel, and while it shares a lot with last year’s original, it also has some key refinements that make it very much its own thing. Is it better than the original? The Godfather Part II of watches? 

The original Guilloché Main took a fresh approach to the artistic application of guiloché with a design inspired in large part by the work of M.C. Escher, known for creating images of “impossible objects” frequently rooted in mathematical and scientific principles. The nature of guilloché itself, which is marked by a series of repeating patterns, made an Escher-esque design a logical choice for the first watch in what is now clearly part of an ongoing Louis Erard series. The new design has a large diamond shape at its center, and according to the brand was inspired by the type of Op art (that’s art relying on optical illusions) pioneered by Victor Vasarely and the abstract minimalism of Frank Stella.

The dial is produced the old fashioned way, on a manual rose engine. A team of engineers developed new cams to stencil this specific design, and once the intricate diamond pattern is chiseled into the dial it’s then varnished and rhodium plated. The goal here is to highlight the craft of guilloché itself in a way that feels contemporary. Normally when we think of guilloché dials, our minds go to designs that require a loupe to appreciate. Indeed, so much of the skill of a good guilloché craftsperson is wrapped up in the idea of going as small and intricate as possible. And good guilloché is rare enough that most watch enthusiasts are usually looking at stamped or CNC machined designs anyway. Here, the pattern is big and bold by design, and while I’m sure it’s impressive under magnification, you certainly don’t need it to understand the artisanal nature of the dial. 

Like last year’s watch, the dial here stands on its own, but to an even greater degree. The first Guilloché Main featured the Louis Erard wordmark under the crystal. Here, the dial is completely sterile, with no branding to be found, and certainly no hour or minute markers on the guilloché element itself (there is a minute track around the perimeter, adding a certain layer of practicality to the piece). This is the aspect of the sequel that really does feel like an improvement over the original. 

In terms of specs, we’re looking at a 42mm case measuring 12.25mm thick, with a domed sapphire crystal. This is par for the course with Louis Erard these days – their coolest designs are often featured in watches with a case size (and 22mm lug width) that a lot of enthusiasts are leery of. In the case of these guilloché dials, however, I think one can argue that a more expansive dial, made possible by a larger case, is a real bonus. An automatic Sellita SW261-1 keeps time, and is visible through a display caseback. 

Only 99 pieces of the Excellence Guilloché Main II will be made, and the watch has a retail price of CHF 3,900. Louis Erard