MKII Updates the Classic Fulcrum with a Smaller Case and Thoughtful Details

Imagination is at the heart of any good spy story or thriller, and MKII seems to know that well; with their latest release, the Fulcrum 39, they’ve crafted a watch fit for a speculative undercover mission in the 1970s. A diver-style piece that favors practicality and class over more visually militarized counterparts, the Fulcrum 39 is designed to convey MKII’s “vision of the perfect tool watch”.

The Fulcrum 39 is a revised and sized-down successor to MKII’s Fulcrum, originally released in 2013. Aptly named for its discreet 39.50mm case size, the Fulcrum 39 is a watch that could have been made for military and covert ops; MKII has crafted a sort of horological fiction with the watch’s design and heritage. While mainly inspired by timepieces issued to the United States Military in the Vietnam War era, the Fulcrum 39 also tags in elements of more civilian-oriented designs, hence the smaller case size and understated appearance. The idea of a watch with a grounded yet fictional background is unique and lends an air of hushed intrigue to the Fulcrum 39 that helps elevate it from just another dive watch to a very functional gear piece for a theoretical (or real) adventure. 

With all these stylistic features in mind, the Fulcrum 39 is unmistakably a tool watch. It totes a 120-click unidirectional bezel, available in either 12-hour or 60-minute diver configurations, maximizing its utility as a dive watch—particularly when paired with its 200m water resistance. The bezel inlay is anodized aluminum, which calls to mind ruggedness over pure style, though the black-on-black bezel and dial combo, white numerals and printing details, and bead-blasted 316L stainless steel case make for a handsome and timeless look. The doubled-domed crystal, AR-coated on the interior, dual-wields the watch’s vintage inspiration and tough-built aspirations. 

The 20mm lug width allows for easy strap-swapping, though the Fulcrum 39 comes with several strap options. A quick-release fully-articulated stainless steel bracelet with a NodeX extension clasp is available, as is a natural rubber dive strap that tapers from 20mm at the lugs to 18mm at the buckle. The third option is a Nytex Type I-M2 general-purpose strap created in reference to the MIL-S-46383, a mil-spec 1960’s dive strap. It features woven ribbed construction, 2 fixed-position stainless steel end keeps, and a stainless steel buckle with a shoulderless strap pin attachment. Arguably the most thematically appropriate of the straps on offer, the Nytex strap comes in either black or khaki. 

I was immediately reminded of another watch when I first saw the Fulcrum 39, and not in a disparaging way at all; the dial, bezel, and sword hands are strikingly reminiscent of the Omega Seamaster 2254, albeit with a hefty dose of MKII’s own styling cues. For instance, the Fulcrum 39 follows in its original iteration’s footsteps by featuring luminous paint solely on the 12, 3, 6, and 9 points, to eliminate visual distraction. The MOD sword hands wear Super LumiNova BW9, and a black background date wheel is optional for those who prefer a little extra information on the dial. This combination of features results in a clean and legible face that requires only a glance to read. 

One key difference between the new Fulcrum 39 and the original, however, is the movement. The original benchcrafted Fulcrum used a Soprod A10 movement, while the 39 features either a Miyota 9015 or 90S5 caliber, for the date and non-date versions respectively. Both are automatic with manual-winding capability and feature a hack setting. 

The Fulcrum 39 looks to be an enticingly vintage-inspired and convincingly practical tool watch that effectively conveys the covert ops backstory that MKII has crafted for it. Its blend of style and function, combined with its eminently wearable case size and a myriad of strap options should make the Fulcrum 39 a good choice for the would-be spy, or the do-it-all civilian. 

Online ordering for the MKII Fulcrum 39 is open now, however at press time, all variants are sold out. That said, MKII has an option on their website to register interest in the Fulcrum of your choice so that when restocks arrive, you’ll be in the know (the next batch is expected in March or April). The retail price is $995. MKII

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Elodie Townsend is a writer based in San Francisco. An appreciation of analog tech drives her love for watches, manual transmissions, and retro video games. She bought her first Casio when she was 12, and the rest is history. When not geeking out about watches or cars, she can be found writing poetry in sleepy cafes.
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