Latest Review
I was presented with a real thorny problem. Right before my eyes, the latest International Watch and WatchTime sat side-by-side on the shelf. The question was, which magazine should I read first?
Both covers enticed me. IW proudly displayed the gorgeous, new Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Manufacture. Watchtime flaunted the latest Omega Speedmaster Co-Axial Chronometer. Decisions, decisions, decisions.
What broke the tie was the lead headline on WatchTime: “60+ NEW WATCHES FROM BASELWORLD.” I’m always a sucker for a treasure-trove of brand spanking new watches. Needless to say, you’ve got to read this article.
The selection of watches is spectacular: everything from the affordably sublime to the ridiculously expensive. It’s hard to say what I liked the best, but I kept on coming back to a delectable Chopard L.U.C 8HF. The thing’s just too beautiful inside and out, but especially inside because it’s the first COSC-certified chronometer with a very high-speed escapement. It beats at 57,000 vph, which means devilish accuracy. Oh yeah, it’s just shy of 20 grand. Oh well………
Getting a bit back to reality, you’ll enjoy the extensive Omega review. They pit the Speedmaster Co-Axial Chronometer chronograph against the Speedmaster Professional chronograph in a side-by-side comparison. Which one wins, you ask? You’ll have to find that out for yourself.
I’d describe this issue as an Omegathon because the next article provides the most detailed history of their Moon watch I’ve ever had the pleasure of reading. You get the complete story – from the first Speedmaster in 1957 to the most current Moonies. I counted 28 watches in this section. One stands out like a sore thumb: the Alaska Project watch developed in 1970 to withstand extreme temperatures in outer space. With its red anodized case, it’s quite odd to say the least.
Of course, there are many more worthy articles. My fave is a review of Girard-Perregaux’s stunning Vintage XXL, followed closely by an article on Hublot’s new gold alloy. This IS amazing!
Now let’s look at International Watch. And you’ve got to look carefully. It’s crammed with all sorts of very short articles on the fascinating ever expanding world of watches. If I were to discuss them all, you’d be reading for the next hour. So, I’ll be very particular, with apologies to this fine magazine.
As I mentioned earlier, the cover story is on Ulysse Nardin, with an emphasis on their wonderful new Marine Chronometer Manufacture. Absolutely everything about it is perfect: from the case to the hands to the luxurious enamel dial. What’s even more perfect is their new (caliber UN-118) manufacture movement. To quote directly from the mag, “The escapement is made of a material called Diamonsil, which consists of synthetic diamond grown on a silicon base.” I can’t help but wonder what Abraham Louis Breguet would have to say about that.
As usual, IW’s up front “Market” section features a collection of current, interesting watches, a few of which are actually affordable. What stood out to me is a new Tsovet with an automatic Valjoux 7750 movement.
“Rocket Scientist” is an intriguing article about TAG HEUER, with a focus on their amazing Mikrogirder.
“Material’s Witness” is a detailed article on Rado that’s a must read. Did you know they began as the Schlup & Co. clockwork factory in 1917? I think you’ll agree that it’s sort of a good thing they changed their name.
Have you read about De Bethune’s Ninth Mayan Underworld? It’s a beautifully styled watch that’s fully detailed in an article titled “The Long Count.” Just to get you intrigued, the hour and minute hands are crafted in sapphire and rimmed with blued steel. Mmmm!
IW always does enticing guides, and “Artistic Dials + Cases” is no exception. If you’ve got a few extra watch bucks collecting dust, you’ll love the Bovet Rising Star triple-time flying tourbillon for a mere $338,000. Or how about a Parmigiani Toric Westminster Large Date Indigo? This minute repeater/tourbillon is only $650,000. My favorite is the Sarpaneva Korona Moonshine, a spectacular watch for a slightly more down to earth $29,122.
If you survived that article, don’t miss “Independent State.” As you may have surmised, it covers a range of small, independent watchmakers and brands. The watches will take your breath away! You’ve just got to see the Eva Leube curved timepiece. And the Marc Jenni. And the Louis Moinet. And the McGonigle Tuscar. And the Urban Jurgensen. And, and, and… You get the point!
by John Weiss
