Our 2024 Watches of the Year

It’s the last day of the year, and once again we’re closing out December with our “Watch of the Year” post. We asked Worn & Wound staff and contributors to pick their favorite 2024 release, and their selections, as always, reveal the huge scope of the watch world. 

Happy New Year to everyone who has joined us in these pages all year – we can’t wait to see what 2025 has in store. And of course, be sure to drop your own favorite watch from 2024 in the comments below.

Zach Kazan: H. Moser x Studio Underd0g “Passion Fruit” Collaboration 

I’ve spent a lot of time over the last few weeks looking back through articles I’ve written and the camera roll on my iPhone anticipating what I might write for my own “Watch of the Year” submission. I also have the luxury of seeing what my colleagues and our contributors have picked for themselves, so I’m truly awash in end of year watch stuff, as I imagine most watch media types are right about now. One thing has become abundantly clear as I’ve scrolled, read, and thought about the last twelve months in watches: it’s been a really great year. 

A narrative emerged early on, even before Watches & Wonders, that 2024 would be “slow” or “conservative” in terms of new releases. To a point, that proved to be correct. While there were certainly some very good watches released by the likes of Tudor, Rolex, IWC, and other big brands this year, they weren’t gamechangers or the watch equivalent of a pop song that you can’t get out of your head. But there were many watches on the margins, from small brands (micro, if you will) and independents that truly impressed me. 

But merely being impressive isn’t what I’m looking for in a Watch of the Year. To my mind, and I’m obviously just making this up as I go along, so bear with me, the Watch of the Year should somehow represent the year. In a year where the mainstream took a backseat to enthusiast focused and adventurous releases, the clear standout to me was one of the most controversial, ink spilling watches of the year, one that forced everyone to take a side, generating memes, hot takes, and diatribes in comment sections across the watch media spectrum. 

No, I’m not talking about the Cubitus. I’m writing, of course, about the H. Moser Endeavour Perpetual Calendar “Passion Fruit,” which was unveiled at Geneva Watch Days amid a flurry of attention alongside a matching chronograph from Studio Underd0g, which was only available with the $60,000+ QP.

When I saw these watches in person, I liked them a lot. The colors, the dial treatments – all of the subjective things you may or may not like about design forward watches like these happened to work for me. But what I liked even more was the concept behind it. Both Moser and Studio Underd0g took a fair bit of criticism (mostly from afar, from people who had not actually seen the watches) for collaborating in this way. Some Moser fans predictably expressed that aligning with a micro cheapens the brand. And some Studio Underd0g supporters complained – loudly – that making a watch that can only be purchased by the ultra rich goes against all of the brand’s principles. I was torched in the comments of an editorial I wrote critiquing this point of view earlier this summer. I stand by every word.

This is the Watch of the Year (call it the “release of the year” I guess) because in a year when independent brands were able to take center stage, Studio Underd0g and Moser showed that creativity and pushing up against the status quo exists at every price point, and that the high end and the low are inextricably linked in ways they’ve never been before. For me, these watches fundamentally align with what we’re trying to do at Worn & Wound in a way that no other watch did this year, which is to show that enthusiasm and a passion for watches is agnostic of price, and that when creative people are brought together, cool things tend to happen. 

Zach Weiss: Grand Seiko SLGW003 

For me, the watch of the year was the Grand Seiko SLGW003. While my favorite GS of the year was the SLGW005, the 003 paves the way for a new breed of GS that defines what their modern watches should be. While the 9SA4 movement is a significant power-house of a movement (and perhaps the movement of the year), it’s really the case that made this specific reference the winner. Though part of the Evolution 9 line, the name of which clearly indicates its forward-thinking concept, the case of the 003 was an evolution on the Evolution. 38.6mm in diameter, under 10mm thick, and with 20mm lugs, it is simply the best-wearing GS I’ve tried on, taking the more aggressive lines of the E9 series but perfecting the proportions.

While the 003’s combo of 9SA4 caliber, brilliant hard titanium, and birch dial made for a great launch piece, I am curious to see future iterations. Dials, colors, steel, etc… And since the thickness likely depends on a manual movement, I wouldn’t be surprised if they put the 9R31 spring drive in a future model, which would be killer. If they expand on this case as they have with others, 2025 might be a very exciting year for us GS fans. 

Kat Shoulders: Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour

When Fears announced in September of this year that they were launching new Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour, I don’t think there was as much buzz as there had been with previously issued Alliance 01, a watch that was only available exclusively to members of the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers. A quick reminder that the Alliance 01 also was the first time we saw Christopher Ward collaborate with Fears and put their custom movement inside. To many, the new release seemed like a mere dial color refresh. I personally was jumping (no pun intended) out of my chair. Not just because the new dial options were stunning but more importantly, because these were now part of the Fears Brunswick collection and not a limited edition.

The biggest change outside of the new dial options is the new applied minute track, which in my opinion adds a nice depth to the dial. It’s no secret I’m a huge fan of what Fears is doing and I was so in love with the Alliance 01 but sadly missed out on the limited edition. So this watch release was like an early Christmas gift to me. So much so that I’m currently working with the Fears team on my own custom dial Jump Hour that’s going to pay homage to my late father (more on that to come). Don’t sleep on what Fears is doing and I hope we see more collaborations next year!

Marc Levesque: Micromilspec Milgraph 

In October of this year, I was assigned to write a Quick Release piece about a watch from a relatively new brand called Micromilspec. As a watch writer, every once in a while, I get an opportunity to write about a timepiece that truly excites me, and this was one of those occasions. Coincidentally, I was fortunate enough to spend some hands-on time with this specific watch the month prior, so coming up with 500+ words was a cinch. Of course, I am talking about the super awesome Milgraph Chronograph GMT.

Many watch brands claim to have relationships with the world’s militaries—special forces this, Navy Seals that—but Micromilspec is the real deal. On their website, they have a list of 40+ detailed projects they have been involved in, ranging from the U.S. Space Force to the French Special Forces and many countries in between. So, they don’t just talk the talk; they walk the walk, or rather tick the talk? I don’t know, but you get what I mean. These guys mean business.

And that’s what this watch is all about. It is purpose-built out of Grade 5 titanium, my absolute favoritest (I know that’s not a word) grade for its scratch resistance. The crown and pushers are positioned on the left side, making them easy to operate using your right thumb should you be holding a firearm. The bezel may appear slick, but there are cut-outs that provide a good grip, even with gloves on. The dial is high contrast for at-a-glance readability, and even though I’m a bracelet guy through and through, I think I could live with this one on its rubber strap.

My favorite aspect of this watch is its originality. In today’s world of derivative design, especially in the military-inspired watch space, this one stands out for all the right reasons. It also combines two of my preferred complications: chronograph and GMT, and it does so without a date window! Seriously, how cool is that? The best part is that I have met the super-cool Norwegian dudes behind the brand, making this watch even more special in my book. 

Meg Tocci: Nomos Tangente 38 Date

During their big debut at Watches & Wonders this year, Nomos released their popular Tangente 38 Date in thirty-one different colors to celebrate 175 years of watchmaking in Glashutte, Germany. Nomos has long been known for their minimalist designs, and this year’s release continues the brand’s commitment to thoughtful, inclusive aesthetics paired with superb in-house movements.

The past few years have suggested a shift away from the oversized options of the early aughts. This Nomos release is emblematic of the zeitgeist of a new decade – one that encourages inclusivity and diverse expression. Moreover, it highlights the brand’s commitment to intentionally centering color as a critical component of their pieces. While some brands are known for their color options (Doxa springs to mind here), very few have woven color into their design language quite the way Nomos has. 

Each part of the watch – the dial, subdial, minute track and date window – ranges in various combinations of two to five colors. The 38mm diameter makes this watch wearable across the board. Nomos also priced the 175th Anniversary releases a little lower than their standard Tangente 38, increasing the accessibility of this popular timepiece. This really was a release for anyone who loves the history of German watchmaking as much as they love a pop of color on the wrist.

This year saw significant strides in representation, with many brands intentionally moving into the realm of 36-38mm sizing to better accommodate a wider range of wrists and personal preferences. This shift reflects a broader trend toward more accessible, versatile timepieces that appeal to both men and women and allow for greater self-expression in one’s style. The Nomos Tangente 175th Anniversary release embraces these values, demonstrating that the modern tastes of today’s watch community can be integrated with a deep respect for both heritage and history. 

Christoph McNeill: Grand Seiko SLGW003 

My choice for Watch of the Year this year is an easy one for me – I’m following Zach W’s lead and picking the Grand Seiko SLGW003 from their Evolution 9 Collection. If you’ve read anything I’ve written in the past, you’ll know that I’m a certified Seiko junkie. I won’t bore you with why the Seiko and Grand Seiko brands are special, if you’re here that you should already know. But the Grand Seiko SLGW003 really is a special piece, and stands out even amongst other Grand Seikos. Now, I could’ve easily picked the absolutely bonkers Grand Seiko Kodo Tourbillon, but that watch is from another world, and to be honest I (greatly) prefer the sweet simplicity of the SLGW003. 

Inspired by the classic vintage 44GS watch, this model has a beautifully designed case featuring flat planes, sharp edges and a combination of brushed and polished finishes in tune with the famous Seiko Grammar of Design aesthetic. The 38.6mm wide case is made of “Brilliant Hard Titanium”, although to be honest I would definitely prefer it in stainless steel, which has a more solid heft to it. Although if you want heft, there is the SLGW002 in solid rose gold, but that is limited to 80 pieces and is priced at a whopping $45,000. This titanium model is much more attainable at about $10,000. 

The dial is a spin on the brand’s “Birch” theme, seen here in a brilliant white color with a gorgeous birch bark texture. It of course has all the details you’d expect on a Grand Seiko, applied faceted markers, faceted dauphine hands, and a blued steel seconds hand. There is no date window (#nodateisthebestdate), just the GS logo and name and minimal verbiage on the bottom half of the dial to give the watch a serene, symmetrical look that is…..beautiful. 

All this is well and good, but the real hero of the SLGW003 is the magnificent, newly designed manual wind high-beat caliber 9SA4 movement. The movement is Seiko’s first high-beat manual wind movement in over 50 years, and is a work of art. It beats at 10 times per second, or 36,000 times  per hour, providing a buttery smooth second hand motion that is a sight to behold. With a power reserve of 80 hours and adjusted to six positions at three different temperatures, the watch is listed as being accurate to +5/-3 seconds per day. It is also beautifully finished, as you would expect. 

This watch has it all: Grammar of Design case, nature inspired textured dial with no date, newly designed high-beat, manual wind movement with an 80 hour power reserve. I mean, what else could you want from a dress watch? Is it expensive? Sure. But I’ve found that more often in life you get what you pay for, and with the Grand Seiko SLGW003, I think you might get even more.

Griffin Bartsch: IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar 

I’ve never really cared about the Portugieser. Sure, it’s a nice watch, but it always struck me as a little middle of the road — not quite, but almost conciliatory. It was a perfectly defensible watch choice for just about anyone, and made almost no statement besides “I wanted a nice watch and this seemed to fit the bill.” Still, it was never a model that surprised me when I saw it on someone’s wrist, and I certainly never assumed that anyone wearing one would necessarily be a watch person.

But it was hard not to take notice when IWC chose the Portugieser as the home for their latest technical innovation, the Eternal Calendar. The Eternal Calendar was and is a huge technical leap forward not just as IWC’s first secular perpetual calendar (accounting for the years when a leap year is skipped), but also as the host for the most accurate moon phase complication, well, ever. Seriously, should this watch be kept wound, the moon phase display will be accurate for 45 million years (theoretically — 45 million years is an awfully long time and I certainly won’t be around to confirm this).

Still, I wasn’t at Watches and Wonders this year, so didn’t get to see the watch in person. So I filed it away as a really cool technical feat, but not one that was worth a whole lot of thought day-to-day. That was until I finally encountered the watch at the opening of IWC’s new boutique in Boston. Guys… it’s so good. The layered glass dial takes the design language of the Portugieser to a whole other level, and the expansive platinum case wears surprisingly well. Obviously, this is a big watch, but it wears its 44.4mm beautifully, and I haven’t been able to get the watch off my mind since.

All together, the IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar may well be the best IWC in years, and certainly the brand’s most interesting. At the very least, they’ve got my attention. 

Tommy DeMauro: Casio Casiotron TRN50-2A 

While Casio seems to produce a slew of wristwatches every year in a plethora of different color combinations, the Casiotron TRN50-2A is, to me, their most notable release this year. Based on the brand’s first timepiece, the QW02 released in 1974, this watch is aesthetically akin to the original but is solar powered, includes Multiband 6 functionality, and is compatible with the Casio smartphone application––helping bring the QW02 into the 21st century. Limited to 4,000 pieces, the TRN50-2A retailed at $500 USD before it completely sold out in a matter of hours. Most reviewers from watch publications, blogs, and YouTube channels have considered this model’s release a net positive and hope it marks the beginning of new models and lines similar to the TRN50-2A. 

Over the last decade or so, Casio has keyed-in on the “vintage” and “throwback” trends younger consumers find appealing by creating their “Vintage Collection” and producing re-releases of iconic 80’s and 90’s models. Unlike the vintage-inspired and affordable A100, AQ800, or A1100B-1EF, the TRN50-2A packs a more feature-filled punch (for the additional costs associated with those added functions, of course). Its release was a success overall and the watch looks great from its promotional adverts and owner testimonials, but in my eyes, the TRN50-2A’s price is what really caught my eyes and made it the most notable watch release of 2024. While it’s a rather attractive package all in all, I feel the TRN50-2A might have created a minor schism amongst Casio collectors. 

You see, a majority of hobbyists who identify themselves as avid Casio collectors value functionality and affordability. While the features offered with this new iteration of Casiotron may be desirable to many prospective buyers, they can also be found on watches for $200 or less. There is no doubt the limited release was a key determinant in justifying the relatively lofty bill, but it makes many Casio fans excited when they first see the announcement, then dejected when they realize it’s unobtainable to them. Casio should utilize this case shape and design in models more accessible to customers within their target demographic of buyers looking for a timepiece with useful functions and an inexpensive price tag. As someone always looking for weird and unique timepieces, Casiotron models have always fascinated me. While the TRN50-2A was too far out of my budget, I hope that this signifies the dawn of Casiotron reissues.

Nathan Schultz: Serica Parade 

Microbrands have a tendency to find a lane and stick to it. Looking for a bang for buck diver? It’s hard to beat Islander Watches. Have a hankering for enamel? anOrdain has you covered. And if you are in the market for an attainably priced chronometer certified tool watch that distinguishes itself with design rather than plastering a name across a dial, Serica has cemented itself as a dependable default choice. Since their founding in 2019, this French indie brand has developed a lineup covering the bases of everything you’d expect from a tool watch focused brand: a field watch, a dive watch and a GMT.

While the predictability that results from sticking to a lane simplifies the process of filling a slot in the watch box, it can also make new releases feel mundane. But in a bombshell that felt anything but formulaic, this November Serica added a dress watch to their concise catalog. And not just any dress watch: a 100 meter, two-handed, stadium-shaped stunner with an elegant guilloche dial adorned with S shaped curves and indices barely large enough to be useful. After a few weeks of trying to figure out why I was so smitten with this unexpected yet attractive addition, I’ve realized it’s because the Parade was an entirely logical next step for a maturing, enthusiast-minded brand aware that some of us might be suffering from tool watch fatigue (I know I am) in a diver saturated market.

Beyond simply liking a cool watch that caught me off guard, I’m most excited about the overwhelming positive response it has received from the watch community. I haven’t heard any complaints about a fan favorite brand abandoning familiar design DNA or accusations of jumping on trends (dress watches and shaped cases are both having a moment, after all). Instead, I’ve only witnessed the celebration of an ambitious release, a reception undoubtedly fueled by the Parade being a thoughtful and robust automatic watch, commonalities shared with every other Serica. This response demonstrates an appetite for something more than new dial colors on existing collections. Looking ahead at the new year, my hope is to see that hunger satisfied with more risks from brands both big and small… and maybe a Serica Parade on my own wrist.

Devin Pennypacker: Glashütte Original SeaQ Chronograph 

Competing companies in the watch industry would rarely lay flowers at each other’s feet. That being said, hats off to Hodinkee on the TAG Heuer Seafarer Chronograph collaboration that still haunts my dreams, but I am going to give it to Glashütte Original. Though technically released back in 2022 in a blue dial and bezel configuration, a short while ago Glashütte Original debuted a new reference within the collection family sporting a “Silver Screen” panda dial and bezel configuration. Already smitten with the brand, I fell hard for the new SeaQ Chronograph. A refined lesson in design language, the Silver Screen offers excellent legibility despite its somewhat complicated display interrupted by two large subregisters and the fantastic big date display at six. Nothing short of mesmerizing, the automatic caliber 37-23 inside offers a flyback chronograph complication, a dual disk big date display, and still manages 70 hours of power reserve while featuring some, if not the, best finishing in the price point. 

Though some call the thickness a drawback, I am drawn in by the romantic visuals cast on the movement and dial by the domed sapphire crystal and case back and would gladly sacrifice it sliding under a cuff for its imposing presence. I am hoping that Glashütte Original introduces this color variation to the standard SeaQ Panorama Date, but until then I will celebrate the chronograph version while screaming the virtues of this oft-overlooked German brand. Just make sure you pick it up on the orange strap.

Garrett Jones: Formex Essence (Meteorite dials) 

Over the last few months, I’ve talked about my love of gear, enthusiasm for watches, even how it felt to finally buy my grail watch. The one thing that I haven’t talked about, at least not that I remember, is my love of outer space. From an early age, I was obsessed with astronauts, space shuttles, and rockets. Even as a teenager and young adult, I had plans to pursue a degree in aerospace engineering with the hopes of one day designing a new rocket platform for deep space travel. While I’ve pivoted career trajectories, my love of space has remained steadfast. 

Now knowing about my no-longer-secret love of space, it shouldn’t be surprising that I also love meteorite dial watches. Aside from the Speedmaster and its historical ties, utilizing a “slab” of an ancient space rock is the best combination of two of my favorite things. As I was getting ready to enter the industry, Formex released a watch that caught my eye in a way that, to this point, few others had. Building upon the existing features of the Essence 39, they added in a new variant with a gold plated meteorite dial. Seeing this watch in person at the Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco, I thought it was amazing and almost put an order in for one right then. At this point in the year, I would have confidently stated that this watch would have been my favorite release of the year.

However, in late October, Formex released two new variants with the gold Meteorite dial; an Essence 43, and an Essence Leggera 41. While I thought that the original Essence 39 release was quite impressive, I think the Leggera 41 absolutely blows the thirty nine away. By combining the gold meteorite dial with their carbon fiber composite case and ceramic bezel, Formex created a watch with a stunning visual contrast that doesn’t subtract from the intrinsic beauty of the dial. Admittedly, I probably wouldn’t notice the 25 grams of weight shaved off the case, but I certainly would enjoy looking down at a solid piece of carbon fiber wrapped around my own personal slab of space rock. Generally speaking, as someone who’s drawn to larger tool and dive style watches, the 41mm case of the Leggera is comparable in size to the majority of watches in my collection, and could serve as a daily worn piece or be used for those special occasions.