A Taste of the Infinite: Hands-On with the J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure

When Zach Kazan told me the other day that a couple of watches by J.N. Shapiro had arrived at the office, I did a double-take. Not privy to the conversations he had been having regarding an article in progress, finding out that two watches by this revered independent were in the office was an exciting surprise. Although I’ve come across perhaps two in the wild I can recall (one a sample of the Resurgence and the other a custom piece for a collector), they aren’t the type of watches that get sent around very often, being rare and high-end.

It turned out, perhaps in an even more exciting turn of events, that these weren’t your ordinary, if such a thing exists, J.N. Shapiros; rather, they were samples of a new line called the Infinity Series Pure. A new duo of watches meant to open, or re-open, the brand to a broader audience of collectors. Though still highly limited in nature, these watches aren’t one-offs or custom pieces. Instead, they are serially produced, albeit in only 18 pieces per color, and feature in-house, engine-turned guilloché dials and handmade, finished precious metal hands. As such, although intended as a more accessible model, the term is relative, and the Infinity Series Pures are priced at $26,000, placing them in an interesting competitive space for independent brands.

Back to the point of them being in the office, I couldn’t help but spend time with these watches. And, thus, also form some opinions on them. So, although my time was limited, and I didn’t jaunt around NYC with these rare samples on my wrist, I did contemplate them peacefully at my desk, and through my camera lens, I decided to put my thoughts to paper.

And yet, as I begin the hands-on, I find myself at a standstill. Not because I am so blown away, though I am indeed impressed, but rather because I’m unsure of my approach. What factors and features are most important when looking at a $26,000 watch? Is it purely the craft and finishing? Is it the dial layout? How much does the movement matter? Does it need to be in-house or have a complication? Do case proportions and ergonomics matter? What about the competition, and who are they? I think the answer is yes… and no.

I can, and will, express thoughts and feelings about all of these topics, but I also believe that once a specific price point is reached, it’s not the nitty-gritty details that matter, although expectations are to be met. Instead, it’s the what that matters. And, in this instance, the what is access to a rising star of the haute-independent watch world. A rising star that went very far upmarket in the last couple of years (though not without reason), further limiting its customer base. A rising star that, unlike most brands in its tier, is American.

Admittedly, this isn’t like MB&F and M.A.D., Hajime Asaoka and Kurono Tokyo, or Grönefeld and GRØNE. This isn’t the J.N. Shapiro experience in a fully mass-produced form. Rather, the Infinity Series Pure is closer to a return to the original entry point for the brand, the now-retired Infinity Series, made in a more reproducible fashion, which is to say, not custom order, and handmade where it counts. As of 2019, an Infinity Series in steel started at $19,000; currently, a Resurgence in steel starts at $70,000, a significant change. $26,000, while firmly in the high-end of things, is only slightly more than what $19,000, adjusted for inflation, would be now. With that said, the Infinity Series Pure (just Pure from here) isn’t a recreation of the earlier line, but rather a new design that respects the former.

Case + Dial

The Pure pairs Shapiro’s signature guilloché pattern, the Infinity Weave, and a three-dimensional hand-set with a traditional layout and a new, smaller, slimmer case design. Measuring 37mm x 45mm x 9mm with 19mm lugs, the Pure case is the brand’s smallest to date. It’s appealingly compact, especially in height, playing into the formal, classical lean of the aesthetic. That said, the case design itself is neither elaborate nor ornate. The three-piece construction features a closed, screw-on caseback, midcase, and a polished bezel. The thick, nearly straight lugs add the right amount of conservative character. The caseback also features an elaborate guilloché motif and an engraved infinity symbol, both of which are, of course, done in-house. It’s worth noting, however, that the case is not manufactured in-house, but was instead sourced through Ming, both of whom are part of the Alternative Horological Alliance.

The dial is undoubtedly the star of the show. Made in-house in the brand’s California workshop, it features all of the hallmarks that brought Shapiro to prominence. A conventional layout, the dial surface is engine-turned and has three distinct patterns. Around the edge is barleycorn, which serves as a border and creates a circular motion. At the center is a basketweave, and within the seconds sub-dial is the Infinity Weave. A “basketweave within a basketweave,” it’s a bit hard to see the minute detail with the naked eye. Under a loupe, however, you can see that every other “weave” has been replaced by four incredibly small weaves. I’m far from an expert on guilloché, but this is the most detailed and minute pattern I’ve encountered, and likely very complicated to execute.

On top of the guilloché surface is a large plate featuring hour and minute indexes, as well as a ring for the small seconds. The large plate features an index of engraved Arabic numerals encircled by an engine-turned texture, and finally by the minutes index, which consists of engraved dots, save at 30, which features an infinity symbol. The serif typeface is elegant, with a calligraphic style that is particularly evident in the “3” numeral. Although I am a fan of Breguet numerals, I really appreciate that Shapiro uses an original typeface. The seconds ring, a separate component that nestles into the large plate, features dots per second, larger at intervals of five. Lastly, just below twelve is a small arcing plate with the brand’s name on it. These elements are all classical through and through.

Apart from the dial, the other in-house-made elements are the hands. The hour and minute hands, in particular, are elaborate, featuring a three-dimensional form. Shaped like a variation of Breguet hands with fully skeletonized tips, the stem between the tip and center is a rod, rather than a flat bar. This gives them a distinct sheen and edge compared to standard hands, as they will catch light on a whole side. That said, given their size, they are best appreciated under a loupe. The small-seconds hands are flat and feature a tiny infinity symbol as a counterweight.

There are two versions of the Pure: one light and the other dark. The light model features a silver surface that appears metallic white thanks to a frosting process, and is paired with rose gold hands. The dark version features a blackened zirconium dial, an uncommon material, and white gold hands. Both have silver-tone plates with black markings and are traditional in appearance. The silver version has a more opulent appeal due to the rose gold, which provides added contrast as well as a third color to the dial, while the zirconium model is conservative. With that said, both show off the guilloché nicely. While there isn’t a wrong choice, I did find the silver model to be more exciting. That said, if I needed a watch for black tie events, you probably can’t get classier than the zirconium model.

Movement

Inside the Pures beats the La Joux-Perret LJP F200, which was formerly known (and is still referred to on their website) as the LJP7380 caliber. A manual wound movement, it features 21-jewels, a frequency of 21,600 bph, and a 90-hour power reserve, but lacks a date or hacking. What is remarkable about the F200 is its relatively small size, considering its substantial power reserve. Measuring 30mm x 2.70mm, it’s slightly wider than a Sellita SW210 and approximately 0.5mm thinner, but with over double the reserve. The nearly four-day power reserve also appears to come from a single barrel. Having a 90-hour power reserve in a watch of the Pure’s size is certainly a bonus.

With that being said, in terms of design and finishing, the F200, while generally appealing, isn’t overly special either. It has two large plates and a balance cock that allow for surface decoration and a little bevel action. For the Pure, the F200 is decorated with Côtes de Genève, as described by the brand, but this detail is not visible due to the solid, engine-turned caseback. It’s worth noting that the original Infinity series utilized movements by UWD, Uhren-Werke-Dresden. A very uncommon movement (I’ve only ever seen it used by Sinn in a limited edition), it has an elaborate and beautiful design with a higher level of finishing than the LJP. It’s also larger in diameter and thicker, so it might not have been suitable for the Pure case.

Straps and Wearability

The Pure comes mounted to a Delugs alligator strap with “Delugs for JN Shapiro” stamped into its lining. These are perfectly good, attractive, well-made straps, though I do wonder if something a bit more high-end is to be expected. To be clear, this is not a knock on Delugs. They make great straps; I have several, and regularly recommend them. It’s purely an expectation thing. A seemingly comparable alligator strap from Delugs is $205 at the time of writing this post, which is on the more reasonable side for alligator. It’s a great strap to pick up as an addition to your $26,000 watch, but I can’t help but feel the strap the Pure comes with should be bespoke, as well as potentially American-made, given the brand.

I have watches that are 34mm, I have watches around 42mm, and I have tried just about every mm in between, but it’s becoming very clear to me that, for those of us with around 7” wrists, 37mm cases are just perfect. It’s the sweet spot. It works for the Black Bay 54, it works for the Grand Seiko SBGW277, it works on every Naoya Hida with a round case. And, more to the point, it works very well on the Pure. This watch is a joy to have on your wrist.

The proportions of the diameter to the lugs, to the thickness of the case, and so on, make for an exceptional wearing experience. It just feels right, like a piece of tailored clothing. Admittedly, this is a bit of luck as my wrist, which is 6.75” currently, seems to be the ideal model size for the Pure (which, as someone who often looks at clothes and sees that the model is 6’4” and wearing my size, is quite novel).

That said, when I first opened the box the watches were shipped in, I was almost taken aback. Not knowing what I was about to see, my mind was prepped for something larger, as this type of watch tends to be. Seeing them and picking them up, they seemed small, and deceptively light. Some part of my mind wondered, “where’s the rest?” Ultimately, as I adjusted to this reality, the thoughtfulness of the design became clear.

Seeing them on my wrist solidified this impression. They are handsome and luxurious in the right way, but not overly fussy or ornate, which can be a risk with this type of design. In my experience, the more I spend on a watch, the more I want to wear it, not baby it. As such, wearability really matters. So while the Pure’s scale might have lacked that initial out-of-the-box “wow” moment for me, it being easy to wear is more important.

Going back to the F200, another reason this movement might have been chosen was the location of the small seconds sub-dial. A critical dimension, the dial elements would not have worked, especially in this smaller case, had it been too close or too far from the center. As is, there is a harmony to the elements, not just of the dial, but of the watch as a whole. This contributes to the wearing experience, as those proportions affect the visual balance.

Conclusion

As I mentioned earlier, I believe the primary motivator for purchasing the Infinity Series Pure will be the Shapiro brand itself. This is not to discredit the appeal of the rest of the watch, especially the in-house dial and hands; however, the opportunity to own a watch by a quickly rising star with a limited output, whose watches will likely become even more challenging to purchase as time goes on, speaks for itself.

There is also an element of wanting to support Shapiro as an ambassador of American watchmaking, both in terms of the watches and symbolism. Having a “volume” model (just 36 units, but you get the idea) will help support the business and its pursuit of manufacturing fully American-made watches. While I will never believe that the FTC’s “all or virtually all critical components” definition has done anything but hinder the industry in America, Shapiro’s efforts with the Resurgence are highly admirable and proof that, if only at the very high end currently, it can be achieved. In doing so, Shapiro has helped bring attention and legitimacy to watchmaking in America.

That all being said, for people looking for an indie watch in general around this price point or with similar features, it’s worth considering some competition. Three independent brands that also offer in-house guilloché would be RGM, Jochen Benzinger, and Garrick. RGM is legendary, and but for the absurd FTC ruling, also makes watches that should be considered “American-made.” Models 25 (starting at $9,950 with a guilloché dial) and 801/40 (starting at $14,900 with a grand feu enamel dial) are worth noting, the former featuring an American-made case, and the latter boasting a 90% American-made caliber. Germany’s Jochen Benzinger is renowned for his dial work, as well as movement skeletonization and decoration. The GAP 2 (starting at $17,460) is impressive, featuring a movement co-developed with Habring² that includes a power reserve and date, and is decorated with engine-turned plates. Lastly, the UK’s Garrick features hand-finished in-house movements, dials, hands, and British-made cases. The S2 (starting at £20,000 / ~$27,000 w/o VAT) features a dial-side balance as well as a deadstop seconds complication, which is relatively uncommon.

This isn’t a matter of better or worse; all of these brands are operating at a very high level, offering products that, while differing in details, have competing features and similar price points. But, to be blunt, the Pures are at the top of that list, while having more common, less decorated movements. Will that really matter? I have a feeling that for the Shapiro customer, it won’t. What I’ve found in my collecting is that I tend to compare specs and prices up to a certain number, and then I’m just drawn to the watch itself, which I can either afford or not. That said, I can’t help but wish there was a little more there for the price.

Regardless, as a brand development for Shapiro, the Infinity Series Pures are exciting. It’s rare to see a brand increase accessibility after moving upmarket. While I don’t think we’ll be seeing something comparable from Roger Smith or Kari Voutilainen anytime soon, I hope they and others take note, as having watches that, while expensive, are aspirational, is a good look. J.N. Shapiro