Martenero Edgemere Review

Charm is never an easy thing to quantify. Whether it’s a person, a work of art, or even a watch, something either has that undefinable charisma or it doesn’t. It can be tough to put your finger on in watches especially. You can put two designs with very similar elements side by side and one can be infinitely more charming than the other. That’s the way I’ve felt about the Martenero Edgemere, one of the most charming, likable watches we’ve seen in a long time. So what gives this nautical-inspired piece so much character? We spent some hands-on time with the line to find out.

Editor’s Note: Just as a matter of full transparency, it should be made clear that Zach Weiss, co-founder and Executive Editor of w&w, works with Martenero in a design capacity. worn&wound has no financial relationship with the brand, nor does Sean Lorentzen, the author of this review. The post was also written without editorial influence.

Case

The case of the Martenero Edgemere is simple and classically proportioned, but with a surprising amount of detail for the price point. Straight, squared-off lugs anchor the watch from a top-down view, giving it a planted, masculine appearance. The light, subtle brushing here contrasts nicely with the thin polished bezel.

There are four distinct layers when viewed from the side, breaking up the simple slab-sided geometry with alternating bands of polishing and brushing. It’s not a particularly thick watch at 11.8mm, but these bands help to make it look even thinner and add some elegance to the proceedings. The crown at three is signed lightly with a minimal Martenero “M.” For the case back, Martenero has gone with a crisply etched compass rose design that brings home the marine chronometer vibe of the piece and helps to sell the fun, adventurous feel.

Dial

As nicely done as the case is, the dial of the Edgemere is where its personality really starts to shine through. The main surface of the dial carries a diagonal striped pattern, giving off the feel of deck planks on a sailboat. The sub seconds dial at 4:30 sits on a lower layer, adding some textural contrast with a sunburst finish, and the off-center placement comes off as playful rather than unbalanced.

The Edgemere’s signature dish, however, is the applied hours track. Sitting well above the main surface and adorned with simple Arabic numerals, this contrasting ring anchors the color scheme of the dial and gives the piece just the right amount of depth. Along the outside, a narrow minutes track completes the look and adds another splash of color. The handset, in another nautical touch, is a modernized take on the traditional marine teardrop style. The long stick hands culminate in clean diamond tips, windowed for the small seconds and painted in yet another contrasting color for the minutes.

There are four different distinct dials on offer. The classic combination, of course, is the white dial/blue ring variant. A staple of marine watches and nautical style in general, it’s given a touch of creativity here with a red-tipped minutes hand and tricolor minutes track. It’s Cape Cod as all hell, and I fully expect to see this in some prep/Americana wardrobe albums in the coming months. The blue dial/white ring version is another safe bet, essentially a slightly more muted reversal of the first.

The Edgemere really excels with its two more adventurous offerings. The first–the white dial/brushed silver ring variant–still carries a pop of color with its teal sub seconds and minutes hand tip, but classes up the design with a polished sheen. This is one that feels a bit dressier and a little more suit-ready than the others, but still unique and fun. The second–and in my eyes the real winner of the bunch–is the white dial/red ring combination. Swapping out the traditional nautical blue in the ring for a vibrant red gives this one an individual character, but keeps the blue in light touches on the hands and minutes track. It’s harmonious, balanced, fun, and together with the proud “Martenero New York” signature plaque on the dial, refreshingly all-American.

Movement

At the heart of the Edgemere is a solid, reliable Miyota 8425. As Miyotas have become ubiquitous among microbrands in the past few years, we’ve seen this power plant several times before, but there’s no denying it’s a wise choice here. Easy to maintain and cost effective, the 8425 is perfectly serviceable given the overall package.

Straps and Wearability

Strap choice for the Edgemere consists of lined leather in brown, navy blue, or crimson, depending on the dial choice. The straps themselves are some of the best we’ve seen at this price point. They’re thick and supple, and there’s some fine variation in color, especially with the brown. The finishing touches–the edge painting and same-color stitching–streamline the look nicely. The signed buckle is also a nice touch. With this much choice already on hand, this design is versatile enough to work on all sorts of straps. A nylon slip-through in the summer would be a natural choice, and I can’t help but wonder how the white/red ring combo would present on a Milanese bracelet.

As far as wearability goes, the 40mm case and wide-set shortish lugs hit a sweet spot for most, feeling pleasantly mid-sized on wrists both big and small. The Edgemere, depending on the color, could be the perfect piece for the “one-watch” man. It’s eminently versatile, feeling at home on T-shirt weekends as much as suited business meetings. If there was a situation where this thing doesn’t fit in, I haven’t found it yet.

Conclusion

There’s no one thing that makes the Martenero Edgemere as charming as it is. It’s an effort in harmony, with every element working together, and the end result definitely leaves an impression. I’ve never been a marine deck watch kind of person. “I’m a chronograph guy,” I’d tell myself every so often while wearing this. Before long, however, I couldn’t deny it. This marine watch, with its vibrant colors, clean case, and unique attitude had won me over. It’s the girl you don’t expect to fall for that you often fall for the hardest, and my list of reasons for not buying one is running dangerously short. It’s hard to put a price tag on charisma, but at $550, it’s a steal.

Visit Martenero to pick up yours today.