The Grand Seiko You Didn’t Know Existed – an Owner’s Review of the SBGX331

With Grand Seiko’s rise to popularity in the last few years, it’s hard to find a truly obscure model. And yet, here we are. No, it’s not some vintage reference buried in the archives or a short-lived limited edition you didn’t know about. It’s a modern watch—one that was still available as recently as fall 2023. It wasn’t exclusive to a single boutique, and yet, you’ve likely never seen it before. Why? Because it’s a Japanese domestic model that’s flown almost entirely under the radar. The watch is the Grand Seiko SBGX331—and by the time you finish reading this, you might just want one yourself.

So, how did I end up with the SBGX331? Back in September 2023, I had the chance to travel to Japan as part of the Grand Seiko Media Experience—a whirlwind tour of Seiko and Grand Seiko’s facilities across Honshu. Over just a few days, we visited multiple workshops, watched artisans at work, and took in various presentations on the brand’s history, movements, and proprietary technologies. We saw case finishing, dial printing, and even the production of Credor Eichi II dials. And yes, we ate—a lot. For a more detailed breakdown of that trip, check out my write-up here.

As a longtime Grand Seiko fan, it wasn’t so much a crash course as it was a chance to confirm that all the stories I’d read—and in some cases repeated—were actually real. Seeing Zaratsu polishing done in person, or hands being heat-blued to a precise hue, or watching minute indices being inspected by eye with a mirror… It didn’t just check a box—it made the whole thing hit home in a new way.

It was also my first trip to Japan, and with no return trip in sight, I wanted to mark the experience in a meaningful way. Which, of course, meant finding a watch. I didn’t just want to buy a watch in Japan, though. I wanted to find one that I could only get in Japan. And, logically, it had to be a Grand Seiko.

Finding a Japan-only Grand Seiko isn’t difficult. Nearly every boutique in Tokyo has something domestic and exclusive, especially the Wako store at the base of Seiko House Ginza. But I had a budget in mind, and I already kind of knew what I was looking for—if I could find it. On a rainy evening in Ginza, I ducked into the Grand Seiko boutique on Namiki Street and there it was: the SBGX331.

So why this watch? A few years earlier, I had come across an odd listing on a Japanese retailer’s site. The watch looked like one of my all-time favorite references, the limited SBGY003, but it wasn’t that. It was less than half the price, wasn’t a limited edition, and yet… I couldn’t find anything about it online. No reviews, no press releases—just a couple of blurry images that didn’t satisfy my curiosity.

What intrigued me was the case. It was the same beautifully sculpted design seen on higher-end Grand Seikos like the SBGY007 “Omiwatari,” the SBGW262 in solid gold, or even the platinum masterpiece SBGZ003. It’s elegant, slim, and defined by curvaceous, mirror-polished surfaces—very unlike the flat, faceted Zaratsu we typically associate with the brand. Executing Zaratsu on a curved surface required Grand Seiko to develop a new technique altogether. Zaratsu polishing already takes years to master, so changing the process to accommodate more sculptural surfaces is kind of a big deal. As such, I assumed the skill associated with it was why that case has generally been reserved for more expensive models.

Needless to say, when I finally saw the SGBX331 person, it was exactly what I hoped it would be. It had all of the charm of watches I adored that hovered in the 8k range in the US, but for a far more approachable $3k-ish with conversion from Yen. Moments later, it became a part of my collection.

With the story portion out of the way, let’s talk about the watch itself. The SBGX331 is part of Grand Seiko’s Elegance Collection and is powered by the 9F61 high-accuracy quartz movement, which likely accounts for most of the cost delta between the 331 and the Omiwatari, for example, though a $5k difference seems like a lot. And yet, Grand Seiko applies the same level of case finishing, dial work, and detail to its quartz models as it does to its mechanical and Spring Drive pieces, outside of rare exceptions like Urushi dials or hand-engraved masterpieces. Different case materials, like Ever Brilliant Steel and High Intensity Titanium, also come with a premium.

And, as expected, the unique Elegance case is exceptional. The SBGX331, which measures 38mm x 42.8mm, features flowing lugs with immaculate curved polished surfaces, hairline-brushed sides, and a thin profile that measures around 11mm including the domed sapphire. It feels slim and lightweight on the wrist, especially compared to my mechanical Grand Seikos. The diameter is on the large side for a dress watch, at least on my 6.75” wrist, but I wouldn’t change it either. The proportions are ideal. It has just enough bling to catch the eye but is still understated, making it incredibly versatile.

The charm isn’t limited to the case, however, as the dial has a reserved elegance. This might be a controversial opinion, but I’ve found that while Grand Seiko’s textured dials tend to get all the attention (and start the conversations), their more minimal dials have far greater staying power, at least in my collection. I’ve just found that while the heavy patterns bring a unique look to Grand Seiko, seeing the same marks in the same places during each wear makes them lose their magic a bit. But, perhaps that’s just me.

The SBGX331’s dial is a warm, silvery sunray with barely-there texture, making it very subtle. The applied hour markers are precisely faceted and polished. A delicately grained ring beneath the minute track frames the dial and adds a bit of contrast. And while everything is technically monotone, the use of polished markers and hands over the sunray dial gives it plenty of contrast. Curiously, the printed elements seem to float slightly, which I think is because of a transparent layer over the metal surface. The effect is very appealing. The signature dauphine hands with their razor-sharp, beveled edges look as good as ever.

It’s conservative, sure, but it’s also confident and extremely well-executed. Paired with a stitchless black alligator strap, the SBGX331 is probably the truest dress watch I own. That said, I usually wear it more casually, swapping in a suede strap or even the brown alligator that came with my SBGW277 to soften the look. Worn in this manner, it looks great with my typical attire, which leans towards business casual these days, regardless. I will say, though, that the threat of scratching those gorgeous polished surfaces (any more than I already have) sometimes makes me think twice about strapping it on.

Inside is the 9F61 HAQ quartz caliber, accurate to within 10 seconds a year. While a quartz watch at $3k might not make sense to many collectors, and admittedly is not something I focus on in my collection, the 9F stands apart. It’s entirely metal, has nine jewels, is decorated, and includes innovative features like a backlash spring, which ensures the seconds hand lands on its mark, and a Twin Pulse control system, which makes the seconds hand take two rapid steps when it ticks, allowing for larger hands. It’s also just novel to pick up the SBGX331 after a few weeks of not wearing it and finding that the time is still dead on. My only grievance is that I wish it had a newer 9F8X movement with a jumping hour hand, making travel and daylight saving time adjustments easier and more accurate.

So, why was this watch only available in Japan? I genuinely don’t know. But with Grand Seiko pushing further upmarket every year, and most new releases now comfortably in the five-figure range, watches like the SBGX331 have new relevance. Not everyone wants or can justify a $10,000 Grand Seiko, or any watch for that matter, which is totally reasonable. But a piece like this distills the brand’s unique qualities and charm into a more attainable and wearable package. That’s not just valuable to collectors, it’s beneficial to the brand, as it’s a great watch to get someone hooked on Grand Seiko. Grand Seiko