[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon

Following the release of the Longines Ultra-Chron in 2022, a revival of a very specific reference from 1968, Longines adds to the model family with the new Ultra-Chron Carbon. This model comes from a more modern age with a carbon and titanium construction, a monochromatic motif, and the same high-frequency automatic caliber inside. Initially, though, it is hard to tell if this model is meant to be an evolution of the former or an extension of the overall family. While there may still be some similarities to its sibling model, this new version does have its differences, which are important to note. 

As the only carbon case piece currently being offered by the brand, it is interesting that Longines decided to introduce it in the oft-overlooked Ultra-Chron collection rather than its more popular offerings like the Spirit Zulu Time or the Conquest. Potentially a byproduct of the simpler case architecture being a bit more friendly to the material, the forged carbon does seem to look right at home molded into the cushion case shape.

Before taking a closer look, my mind immediately began to look back at a release from last year coming from another Swatch Group brand, the Tissot Sideral S, ready to call out similarities. As a fellow carbon fiber cushion case, I was expecting to play a game of spot the difference. Instead, I was pleasantly surprised by the level of additional finishing applied to its surface. The case features vertical sides that transition to a rounded facet running from lug to lug, shrinking near its center before expanding across the entire surface. Not only does the sweep diminish its visual presence slightly, allowing light to fall off at the edges, but it also changes the visual texture of the case creating a vertical grain pattern that transitions to a marbling on its top and bottom surfaces. Its edges are crisp, the curvature thoughtful, and overall finished to a higher level than any other carbon piece I’ve handled in recent memory. 

Measuring in with a case diameter of 43mm and thickness of 14mm, it may cast doubt on the wearing experience for those with medium to small wrists. However, the traditional cushion case shape contains some sort of magic that allows the piece to wear smaller than you would expect, conforming to a wide variety of wrists. A compact lug-to-lug of 48.6mm is certainly to thank, though a large part of its comfort comes from the shape and excellent sailcloth strap. Resting between the 22mm lugs, the tightly woven nylon sailcloth backed with supple leather brings more texture to the design and elevates the look and feel, even including blasted titanium hardware. Too often the strap of a watch comes as an afterthought, though I am happy to say that here it is not the case. It combines with the case to create a full-fledged package ready for everyday use right out of the box regardless of your daily demands.

At its center, a titanium core contains the movement inside secured by a screw-down crown and caseback helping to achieve 300 meters of water resistance. Despite this impressive feat, this model is devoid of a rotating bezel and instead opts for a fixed one. The titanium bezel holding the matte aluminum black bezel insert remains resolute and is a bit of an odd choice given its sibling model and history as a dive watch. It may lead some to classify this as a sports watch rather than a true diver, though Longines maintains its dive designation. Set just within is the domed sapphire crystal with several anti-reflective coatings applied to each side to help cut down on glare, an important feature that we will address soon. 

In a similar format as before, the Ultra-Chron Carbon makes use of an anthracite pebble textured dial surface to hold contrasting details on its surface. At the perimeter, white printed lines in differing weights mark the ⅕ seconds, minutes, and hours which extend out to surround the applied indices. Polished with a central facet, the indices each hold a generous portion of Super-LumiNova, a theme carried over to the baton and sharpened pencil hour and minute hands. At 12, the applied winged hourglass supports the printed Longines wordmark balanced by an applied logo nodding to the higher frequency and Ultra-Chron text at 6. The polished details have a dramatic two-tone visual effect appearing much darker on one side than the other which can affect legibility in odd lighting conditions. That is also a byproduct of those details not being of a common silver tone but opting for a grey PVD treatment before being polished. Overall, the monochromatic design language feels moody, purposeful, and well thought out despite its potential shortcomings in quick time recognition.

Powering the Ultra-Chron Carbon is the high-frequency Longines exclusive automatic caliber L836. Designed in conjunction with Swatch Group movement supplier ETA, the caliber features modern quality-of-life features such as hacking and winding, a monocrystalline silicon balance-spring, and improved anti-magnetism. As the original Ultra-Chron was the first dive watch equipped with a high-frequency caliber, it is great to see it find new life in a modern sports watch. With a refined sweep, the chronometer-certified caliber operates at a frequency of 5 Hz while still achieving a power reserve of 52 hours. An impressive inclusion of movement technology from a company with an expansive history of innovation in watchmaking. 

The Ultra-Chron is a historically important collection that deserves to come back out of the shadows for its time in the sun. While I am not sure that this is the model that will propel the Ultra-Chron into the common market, it is an interesting culmination of material and movement sciences in a unique package. As a big fan of Longines often touting their finishing and wearing experience, it should come as no surprise that I am glad to see the brand push into new categories and experiment like the good old days. Though with the allure of new materials, the new Ultra-Chron does come with its quirks and, of course, a hefty price increase that may leave some waiting for the next iteration. Let’s just hope that it doesn’t take another 3 years. Longines