Micro-indie brand Sartory-Billard, founded by Armand Billard and his friend Ludovic Sartory in 2015, is well-known for its custom bespoke timepieces. In a shift from its usual practices, the brand is set to release two new fully fleshed-out models featuring its standard SB04-E case: the Ruby Platinum, which will be a limited series, and the Tantalum Hand-Engraved, which will enter regular production. Both models aim to showcase the brand’s craftsmanship and expertise, a goal they seem to have achieved based on these brand supplied images.
The Ruby Platinum watch features a dial centerpiece made from genuine ruby sourced from a responsibly harvested boulder in Tanzania, Africa. The ruby is crafted into dial inserts in Germany, just an hour away from the Sartory-Billard workshop. Because of the unique nature of the material, no two dials are identical; each displays distinct textures. Completing the dial is a fumé sunray-textured platinum-plated outer ring.
Tantalum is one of the most challenging metals to work with due to its remarkable density and hardness. Engraving a delicate design on its surface requires great skill, which is exemplified in the intricate feather-like engraving found in the center of the Tantalum Hand-Engraved dial. Like the previous model, this one also features a surrounding ring; however, this one is made of solid tantalum and finished with a fumé sunray effect.
Both watches have a 39.5mm diameter case, measuring 46mm from lug to lug and only 10.3mm thick. They also feature a pad-printed minute track and a “Y” design in white Super-LumiNova BGW9 lume, diamond-cut hands, indexes, and a ring separating the dial components. There is even luminescence on the crown, a neat detail I wish more brands would adopt. The caseback is secured with four Torx screws, ensuring water resistance up to 100 meters, and the movement can be viewed through the display portal at its center.
The Sartory-Billard SB04-E Ruby Platinum and Tantalum Hand-Engraved watches are both powered by a nicely decorated La Joux-Perret caliber G101 automatic movement, which operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour. It features a tungsten rotor, includes 24 jewels, and has an impressive power reserve of 68 hours. They will come with 20mm curved Delugs CTS rubber straps featuring their spring-loaded deployant clasps and a voucher for a free additional Delugs strap.
The SB04-E Ruby Platinum is $4,800 and is limited to 150 pieces. The standard production SB04-E Tantalum Hand-Engraved is $3,600. More information can be found at the Sartory-Billard website.