Latest Review
LVMH Watch Week has quickly become a yearly staple on the release calendar for watch enthusiasts since its inaugural year in 2020. A mix of novelties and staple collections have graced the headlines acting as a special kickoff to the new year and this year is no different. What immediately caught my eye though was a pair of Carrera Chronographs sporting a new-to-the-model dial color. Enter the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph and Tourbillon in purple. Equipped with a smoky black-to-purple gradient backdrop, the Glassbox design family continues to grow.
Following the release of the TAG Heuer Monaco Purple Dial in 2022, I had assumed that we would see this color trend carried throughout the rest of the catalog. With that model being discontinued and somewhat hard to come by, it is not surprising that the tourbillon model was also slapped with the LE designation. What is a surprise though is that the standard Carrera Chronograph is not limited and is entering standard production. This will hopefully give those lusting to add an excellent pop of purple into their collection the opportunity as these begin to trickle out to authorized retailers, though I do suspect that they will still be a bit hard to come by immediately.
By far the standout feature of the watch is its appearance. Appearing almost black in medium to low light conditions, the purple breaks through in direct light playing with its sunray-brushed surface. The effect lends dimensionality and versatility to the design drawing your eyes into the timetelling details. Each subregister sloping to a lower surface features concentric rings finished in a black azure accented by white markers. Matched in color, the sloping chapter ring holds white minute markings while small lume plots rest behind the polished and applied indices cutting their way through the gradient and onto the main dial surface. At six, white printed markers for the running second encircled the polished hand except at its bottom where a polished frame revealed a black date disk. The choice to keep the running seconds register on the purple dial rather than relegating it to a deeper set black dial helps balance out the visuals while allowing the purple to cover more ground.
On the Tourbillon, the running seconds counter comes by way of the framed visual showpiece, the toubillon. At the center of the dial, skeletonized polished hands hold a central strip of Super LumiNova while the fully polished chronograph hand ticks over. The contrast between polished details and dark dial surface aids in legibility, which overall is excellent, though a bit lacking in lower light conditions as a byproduct of the minimal lume application. Apart from their similar visuals, the two models cast a very different silhouette offering opposing wearing experiences.
The standard Carrera Chronograph measures in at a restrained 39mm case diameter paired with a wrist friendly lug to lug of 46mm. Sized for the masses, the Carrera Chronograph features a well-finished case with its bezeless construction. Casting a romantic visual, the domed Glassbox sapphire crystal with a hard-working antireflective treatment meets the finely brushed case allowing the dial to steal the show and feel as though it wears slightly smaller. A mix of fine brushing and polished surfaces decorate the case adding further dimensionality and a bit of sportiness. With 100 meters of water resistance, the screw-down sapphire caseback offers a glimpse at the caliber within. At 13.86mm thick, the Carrera Chronograph makes for a comfortable everyday piece able to be dressed up or down for the occasion.
Turning our attention to the Tourbillon, we have more substantial measurements, potentially as a byproduct of the movement. At 42mm in diameter, the case sits larger on the wrist though still wears below its dimensions again thanks to a restrained lug-to-lug of 48.6mm. The thickness of course increases on this piece, though by less than 1mm, to 14.33mm. On this model, you will find the same finishing as the other, never stealing the show from the tourbillon mechanism. On its back, you are offered a similar view of the automatic chronograph movement. This watch carries a visual gravitas through its larger dial surface allowing the tourbillon to steal the show and stand out as its centerpiece.
Powering the Carrera Chronograph is in-house TAG Heuer caliber TH20-00. It is the same automatic column-wheel chronograph caliber that we have had in recent models since 2023 and stands as a reliable counterpart. It dictates the 30-minute counter at 3, running seconds at 6, and 12-hour chronograph counter at 9 layouts while opting to place the date window at 6. Operating at 4hz, this movement achieves 80 hours of power reserve along with a Kif anti-shock system to help keep accurate time during potential strenuous timing scenarios. TAG Heuer also offers an improved 5-year manufacturer warranty.
Built on the same platform, the TH20-09 sacrifices its power reserve coming down to a still capable 65 hours in order to pull the tourbillon from its components. Again as a result of the update to the base caliber in 2023, the TH20-09 still features the Kif anti-shock system along with a bidirectional winding rotor and a 5-year warranty. Overall, the movements are finished in a more industrial sense offering some brushing and striping to break up the monotone grey components.
Both watches are equipped with a perforated leather strap, a callback to its racing heritage. Crafted from black leather with a purple backing, the strap tapers down to meet the foldover clasp. In full transparency, these were press samples and I was not the first to handle the models, but the strap lent a very comfortable wearing experience adding to the overall visual aesthetic. An area that TAG Heuer tends to get right, the strap feels well thought out and complementary, following the Carrera’s overall vibe of refinement with a bit of flair. Not that most people will see it this way, but it would look great saddled up with a pair of black leather racing gloves.
As the Glassbox family grows, it is nice to see TAG Heuer experimenting with bold colors rather than simply crossing off the traditional boxes. As a huge fan of deep purple hues, I was excited to get my hands on the two pieces and am happy to report that they do not disappoint. Strangely, it does seem as though you have to pay a slightly different price depending on dial color so with only the Swiss price on record at the time of writing (CHF 6,500 for the chrono, CHF 24,000 for the tourb) I will be interested to see where it falls. With the rekindling of its partnership with F1, I assume we will see a huge swath of chronographs making their way to the catalog. However, for now, you will still find me appreciating this well-executed bold design, at least until the purple Monza is created. TAG Heuer
