The Grand Seiko Kodo Saga: Daybreak

The Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon was such a hit that they decided to make a sequel. Okay, that’s not totally accurate. 2022’s unexpected breakout watch did get a new version just two years later, but rather than a sequel, it’s more of a redux—a different take on the same story. A director’s cut?

For those who need a recap, however, the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon was nothing short of complete and utter shock when first unveiled, even though there had already been a teaser trailer (I’m going to try to keep this movie thing up) in the form the T0 concept movement. While known for its finishing, spring drive, and high-beat movements, Grand Seiko was not considered a manufacturer of high-end complications. As such, even though it was a concept movement, the T0, which unveiled a novel constant-force tourbillon, took everyone by surprise.

When Grand Seiko then unveiled the Kodo just a short while later, which included a refined and manufacturable version (if on a small scale) of the same complication within a skeletonized and highly finished movement on par with any haute Swiss brand, it announced that Grand Seiko was ready to play on a different level. A few years later, the Kodo, though sold out, is still being assembled via a team of three specialized watchmakers within Grand Seiko Atelier Ginza studio.

Back to the present. Light and shadow are pervasive themes in Grand Seiko’s design. Alongside nature, they are at the core of their design language and how they implement their finishing. For the second Kodo, Grand Seiko made it apparent that this theme was always at play as a broader arc, as the new watch, Daybreak, is meant to counter the original, Twilight.

If the name didn’t already spoil the story, the plot is pretty evident on the surface. It’s the Kodo but brighter, suggesting the soft light of morning. The dark plating on the movement was swapped for brighter metal tones. That’s the biggest difference in this recut, but there is a more subtle change as well, one that might not hit you upon first viewing. The jewels are no longer ruby but rather light blue sapphire.

A subtle twist I love: not only does it quite effectively, if subversively, alter the watch’s appearance, but it speaks to the level of bespoke manufacturing that goes into its making. Admittedly, it’s north of $300k, so one should expect nothing less. It also comes on a “white” leather strap that is hand-coated with layers of urushi lacquer, a technique once used for armor. The result looks like oatmeal or perhaps cereal milk, but in an appealing way. Regardless, it fits the daybreak theme. It comes with an additional matte gray strap.

Will there be a Kodo high noon or midnight? We have no idea, but much like with Lord of the Rings, there is room for more extended cuts. The Grand Seiko Kodo Daybreak is limited to 20 pieces and priced at $365,000. Grand Seiko