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For the first time since 2017, Breitling is refreshing their Superocean Heritage collection. This line has always been something of an under the radar gem. Breitling of course is known for their pilot and aviation themed watches, which run a wide gamut between classical (the Navitimer) and tech-forward contemporary (all of the ana-digi releases through the years). Divers (or “sea watches” as they’re referred to in the latest press materials) seem a little outside the brand’s wheelhouse at first blush, but of course as an historic maker of tool watches, it makes sense to dip into this ultra competitive genre. The Superocean Heritage has always felt like one of the more tasteful vintage inspired sports watch lines, and while they aren’t discussed as frequently as something like the Black Bay family of watches, the collection has always had its fans and the watches themselves are undeniably refined and capture exactly the vibe they intend to.
This is a full refresh that seems to be focused squarely on variety and appealing to a broad segment of the “sea watch” market. The new Superocean Heritage models come in a total of four sizes: 44mm, 42mm, 40mm, and 36mm. In addition, there’s a Superocean Heritage Chronograph that comes in at 42mm. The 40mm+ three-handers all use the still new B31 caliber, Breitling’s first exclusive three-hand manufacture caliber.
Dials across the collection can be had in black, blue, and green. All feature color matched ceramic bezels and new bracelets and straps designed to fit to the case in a more integrated fashion. Breitling has opted for tone on tone subdials on the chronograph, a decision that points to a desire to make these watches more aesthetically appealing than tool-oriented (contrasting colors make more sense if legibility is a primary concern). This is a completely defensible decision in my view – vintage inspired dive/sport/sea watches are almost always aesthetic objects first and foremost. Specs certainly dictate that these watches can handle some action at depth (the entire collection is 200 meters water resistant), but the focus is clearly on creating something that a wider swath of customers will view as visually appealing.
To that end, the 40mm, 42mm, 44mm, and chronograph models all feature references with 18k red gold accents on the outer bezels of either the blue or black dialed Superoceans. The gold accents, in my opinion, really play up the vintage look, as it’s reminiscent of old-fashioned gilt dialed divers. Compare the 42mm black dialed Superocean Heritage with gold accents against the green dialed version of the watch in the same size, and I’d argue that the green looks quite contemporary in comparison.
Breitling has long had a reputation for making watches with somewhat bruising proportions, but thanks to the new slimmer B31 caliber, the three-handers here should be relatively trim. The 44mm watch is listed at 12.17mm thick, the 42mm at 12.03mm, and the 40mm at 11.73. The 36mm Superocean Heritage, which runs on the Caliber 10 movement, comes in at 10.42mm in height. The chronograph, powered by Breitling’s Caliber 01, is 14.55mm tall.
In addition to the 28 new references across all four sizes, strap and bracelet options, and the chrono that make up the new Superocean Heritage permanent collection, Breitling is also releasing a limited edition Superocean Heritage made in partnership with surfer and brand ambassador Kelly Slater. This 40mm Superocean Heritage features a blue bezel and blue dial with a “tropical foliage” motif. The watch is meant to celebrate Slater’s retirement from competitive surfing with a design inspired by Hawaiin surf culture. It’s a limited edition of 500 pieces.
For the three-handers powered by the B31 movement, all references excluding those with gold accents are priced at $6,500 on a bracelet and $6,200 on a rubber strap. The two-tone models start at $7,700. The 36mm references are priced starting at $5,250, and the chronograph lists for $8,900 to start. The Kelly Slater limited edition is slightly more expensive than the comparable 40mm watches and will retail for $6,450 on a rubber strap and $6,750 on a bracelet.
More information on the new Superocean Heritage collection can be found at Breitling’s website here.
