Fears Introduces Platinum Cased Brunswick

Fears designs have largely stayed true to their tagline of “Elegant Simplicity”, even with the introduction of their Blue, Salmon and Midas Gold versions of the flagship Brunswick model. You could argue their latest release may adhere to the “Elegant” part of that ethos, but “Simplicity” doesn’t really apply any more.

The Fears Brunswick Pt, as you might guess, is a take on the same watch but with a Platinum 950 case. But the extravagance doesn’t end there. The hour markers that alternate with platinum plated Arabic numerals are set with diamonds, with a seventh diamond in the onion crown.

In most of its other iterations, perhaps save for the striking salmon dial, the Brunswick is very much an under-the-radar watch; one which you have a much greater appreciation of noticing the subtleties over time rather than being immediately enchanted at first sight. Although platinum and diamonds don’t really give off the same message, platinum is one of those metals that you can only really appreciate close up. The sheen of platinum is slightly softer than steel or white gold, and a watch case made from platinum will be noticeably heavier.

On the reverse of the Brunswick Pt are a set of hallmarks denoting that each piece has been tested to be at least 950 parts out of 1000 pure platinum, along with a new ‘NBS’ hallmark that was applied for specifically for this watch and approved by the London Assay Office. NBS represent the initials of Nicholas Bowman-Scargill. Fears’ 4th Managing Director. Nicholas was quick to note to me that previous Fears models crafted from precious metals also included hallmarks for the Managing Director of the time, so there is precedent beyond simple boastfulness!

The dial of this special edition (not a limited run, but due to the man-hours of finishing that each case requires, only four will be made per year) is coated with Anthracite, with three distinct finishes to create a real dynamic backdrop. The different areas give combinations of light grey or deep charcoal against which the diamond and platinum can really shine. The hands are bolder, too. Although the pipette shape that Fears is known for remains, the hands are solid water-cut platinum rather than in skeleton form. I particularly like the combinations of polished and frosted edges seen on both the hour and minute hands, as highly polished hands can get lost against a black dial.

To complement the anthracite dial, Fears have used a lightweight Kevlar strap with platinum coloured stitching. The combination of an anthracite dial and Kevlar strap make the Brunswick altogether more menacing.

“Combining Platinum and diamonds with materials like Kevlar is the result when you turn Fears up to 11” – Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, Fears’ 4th Managing Director

Inside the Brunswick Pt is a slightly modified version of the ETA/Peseux 7001 found in the base Brunswick models. As well as a modified bridge shape, and some platinum plating, the mainspring has been strengthened to account for the substantially heavier hands being driven. Although testing showed no great effect on accuracy, the available power reserve was shortened before the mainspring modification.

The materials in play aren’t the only thing turned up to 11. The price tag for the Fears Brunswick Pt is £28,200 inc VAT. This platinum version is never going to be Fears’ best seller, but it a representation of what happens when the shackles are removed. Fears.

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Brad stumbled into the watch world in 2011 and has been falling down the rabbit hole ever since. Based in London, Brad's interests lie in anything that ticks, sweeps or hums and is slightly off the beaten track.