Latest Review
Despite what a look into my watch collection might imply, I don’t put a huge amount of stock into the concept of seasonal watches. Broadly speaking, most watches can easily be worn any day of the year, and in any reasonable conditions one might encounter. Still, I’m not so blind as to ignore that some watches have a definite “vibe,” and for proof of that, you don’t have to look further than the new Deep Diver from Girard-Perregaux.
The Deep Diver, which Girard-Perregaux has recently relaunched in collaboration with Bamford Watches, is the latest in GP’s line of vintage revival models — or “Legacy Editions” — and follows up on the somewhat surprising success of the Casquette. Now, vintage reissues are nothing new these days, but unlike some peers, Girard-Perregaux has been cautious in diving into its back catalogue. The result of this restraint is that GP’s Legacy Editions are reliably strong releases, with each feeling like a rare treat rather than a checked box or tired contrivance.
The original Deep Diver was released in 1969, but continued to evolve for a few years before being phased out of the GP lineup in the late ‘70s. The new Deep Diver specifically draws on the ref. 9108 as it existed in the mid-‘70s. The Deep Diver has always been a vintage model I’ve had my eye on (I vividly remember bidding on one on eBay when I was in college, only to get blown out of the auction at the last minute by someone who clearly knew what they wanted), but it was never a watch I expected to make any sort of modern comeback — although maybe I should have known better.
Still, when I saw the press release for this watch in my inbox ahead of the watch’s re-release, I was definitely excited, and I was even more excited when I had the opportunity to spend some time with the Deep Diver on the day of its release. The new Deep Diver hews remarkably close to the original — even sporting a vintage execution of the Girard-Perregaux wordmark (which I hesitate to say is better than their current branding, and possibly worth a revisit). Even the bold coloring comes directly from vintage examples of the watch, although the use of orange lume is unique to the modern edition, and the hues and color-blocking have been slightly reworked.
While the new watch comes in Grade 5 Titanium (as opposed to stainless steel), the dimensions have remained remarkably similar to the original. The cushion case measures 40.3mm wide, and the modern release is slightly thinner than the vintage, sitting at just under 14mm thick (not that I expect anyone will complain about a thinner dive watch). On my 7.5” wrist, the watch wears exceedingly well. The cushion case and short lugs mean the watch is relatively compact for its size, and on the rubber strap, the watch sits nice and tight.
The Deep Diver comes with a pair of color-matched rubber straps, one in a deep navy, the other in a vibrant orange. The straps are comfortable and flexible, and evoke the look of the vintage bracelet. While I’d love to have a titanium bracelet available as an option with these watches, I think for what is clearly intended to be a warm weather watch, having a pair of brightly colored and comfortable quick release rubber straps is a great compromise, and I’m sure I’d end up spending most of my time wearing this watch on the orange strap were I to ever end up with one of these in my watch drawer.
As one would expect from a brand like GP, the touchpoints on the Deep Diver are all immaculate. The two crowns are each easy to interact with, and while I generally prefer external bezels from a functional standpoint, it’s hard to argue against the super-compressor look of the Deep Diver. Finishing is handsome, with the radially brushed case contrasting nicely with the polished lugs and 14-sided bezel for a straightforward but appropriately eye-catching look.
Inside the watch is a GP03300 movement, a time and date option used throughout the Girard-Perregaux lineup. It’s a solid in-house option with 46 hours of power reserve and is vaguely visible through a navy blue display caseback.
One sticking point that may prove hard to ignore with the Deep Diver is the price. The 350-piece limited edition (which is only available at Watches of Switzerland through June 15) is priced at $15,100. That’s obviously no small amount of money, but it’s also a hotly contested segment of the dive watch market, alongside brands like Blancpain and Rolex, which obviously have much stronger histories in the dive watch space. Girard-Perregaux has been out of the dive watch game for a minute, and if we ever see a less limited version of the Deep Diver, I’d love to see it priced slightly more competitively.
Overall, the Deep Diver is a remarkable reminder of how effective vintage revival can be for a brand when they dip into the well judiciously. I walked out of my meeting pleasantly surprised that the watch was everything it needed to be; namely, that it was fun. The watch industry can be a pretty serious place, as it should be when asking customers to put down real money for expensive, anachronistic toys, but it should never be severe, and watches like the Deep Diver are a great reminder of just how fun these things can be, even when they’re taken seriously. Girard-Perregaux
