Hands-On with the Meteorite Laden Selten Series 00.00

For reasons I can’t quite explain, meteorite dials seem to be having a moment. Not only do we see them at use within mainstay brands like Rolex, Omega, and Jaeger-LeCoultre, but more so lately in the small independent scene from brands like Zodiac, Formex, Zelos, and the brand in front of us today: Selten. Clearly, the material is more accessible than ever, and the Selten, priced at $579 is emblematic of that fact. Selten is a brand we first discussed in a Micro-Brand Digest earlier this year, and it stood out to us not just for its use of meteorite, but more for the inventive take on a 24 hour indication, and the almost over-the-top stylistic cues that comprise the rest of the dial. 

The Selten Series 00.00 is a striking watch for a few reasons, and it feels strange to say, but the meteorite dial at its base might be the most subtle element to its design. Like the Zodiac we wrote about here, and the Zelos we showed you here, the Selten is using a slice of the Muonionalusta Meteorite. In fact, it doesn’t stop there. There’s a small section dedicated to some of the luxury products and brands that have made use of this specific meteorite, from Bremont to Rolls Royce. While the underlying substance may be from the same piece of space rock, the finishing applied by each of the brands using it does indeed vary.

I happen to have a meteorite dial Zodiac on my desk for quick comparison, and while the Widmanstätten pattern is obviously similar, the contrast is much lower in the Selten. Depending on the finishing method the dial goes through, the end result can vary from light gray to dark and high contrast, and apparently color can also be added as Selten offers this watch with a midnight blue meteorite dial as well. While distinctive and most certainly interesting, the meteorite texture takes a back seat to the towering hour markers that float over the dial itself. That’s not to say the dial is short on character. At the right angles and in the right lighting conditions you’ll find all manner of striations and textures to enjoy from this slice of meteorite. Though each will be unique, so of course, your mileage may vary here. 

A two-step chapter ring frames the dial, adding quite a bit of depth in the process. This is further exaggerated by applied hour markers that appear to float over the meteorite base section of the dial. It’s a dramatic effect that throws serious shadows over the dial, giving a more aggressive tone than the materials themselves. A very regal looking plate at 12 o’clock bears the branding, saving the dial from any printing atop the meteorite texture. There’s another plate/plaque applied to the case in a somewhat surprising area, but we’ll get to that later. 

Every element of the dial carries a certain visual weight, and the hands are no exception. They are dimensional, feeling like they have some serious mass from all angles. The hour hand carries an open circle near its tip, but it’s large enough to perfectly frame both the day and night pieces in the sub dial. Speaking of that sub dial, the day/night indication is the focal point of a dial full of eye-catching features.

A framed sub dial sits atop the base layer with a disco containing two circles, each a piece of meteorite, one dark and one light, beset by a collection of polished star shapes representing the night sky. At a glance it looks like a phases of the moon complication, but in reality the disc makes a full rotation every 24 hours, with the light circle aligning at the top of its rotation in sync with the hour hand at noon, and dark circle with the hour hand at midnight (or vice versa, I suppose, there’s no date complication here). Each circle is perfectly framed by the circle in the hour hand as it passes overhead. 

This detail heightens the already dramatic personality of the Series 00.00, and will end up being just as big a selling feature as the meteorite dial, I’d imagine. It represents a growing number of seemingly ordinary complications being commandeered in creative ways. The day and date discs on this So Labs is another. It’s a welcome trend and one I hope to see continue. 

The case of the Series 00.00 takes a bit of a backseat to the dial, and that’s just fine in this situation as there’s plenty to enjoy there. There is a radially brushed bezel piece sloping away from the dial and into a 40mm steel case that’s about as straightforward as they come. A polished bevel runs the line of the lug, joining the polished lip of that bezel. An H-link bracelet is offered here, along with a blue leather strap, which I found to be more palatable on the wrist due to the rather inelegant end link of the bracelet.

One hidden detail resides on the case wall between the lug span at 6 o’clock, and it’s a plaque that hosts the etched individual number of each watch. This was a fun detail to discover when removing the bracelet, and is something that stays in full view with the leather strap fitted. I can’t say I’m fond of plaques fitted to the sides of cases, but this is a great solution that doesn’t interfere with the design of the case (as simple as it may be). 

Selten is using the automatic Miyota 9132 with the Series 00.00, which gets a custom designed rotor that features a tri-leaf design of their logo, all visible through an exhibition caseback. The caseback itself is inscribed with “A Rare Kind” and “Not A Stereotype”, which you can make of what you will. The Series 00.00 will be limited to 1000 individually numbered pieces, so I wouldn’t call it literally rare, though that might be more in reference to their attitude and general design language. The Series 00.03 (black meteorite), 00.04 (aventurine), and 00.05 (blue meteorite) will also get 1000 piece runs and each are priced at $579 for the pre-order period ($699 thereafter). Learn more about these watches from Selten.