Like an introductory drug deal oozing with awkwardness, I slunk up to the tall figure to introduce myself, hoping he would supply the goods. With equal parts excitement and nervousness at sharing an early glimpse into his personal vision, Magnus produced a prototype, along with immediate excuses for its appearance, offering detailed points for his lofty goals. What began as a university project was finally starting to take shape. For the first time, it was being seen by a select few of the most scrutinizing watch enthusiasts. I sat there with Magnus’s creation in hand, and immediately signed up to follow his story.
It is still the early days, but the project has been named, and we have the first rendered photos of the final product: the Anemoic Versailles. A rectangular watch influenced by Magnus’s time in the industry as a designer at Studio Underd0g and the solid guiding hands offered along the way. An ambitious design, utilizing interesting finishing techniques and materials to stand out, will be his final university project as he starts a watch company from the ground up in just a few short months. Following his time at Studio Underd0g, Magnus is looking to apply his industry knowledge, trained product design practice from his schooling, and guidance from well-known industry names, (including Richard Benc from Studio Underd0g, Mike France of Christopher Ward, and many others) to evoke a similar feeling as the French fashion industry during the pivotal 1970s.
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Color and facets lay the foundation for the unique visuals on offer from every angle. The 28mm wide steel case remains compact, with a lug-to-lug of 39mm and a thickness of just 7.5mm. Designed to conform to the wearer’s wrist, the case and case back feature a generous curve on their underside, draping nicely while holding the crystal square to your view. At three rests the squared off crown with facets and finishing that correspond to those found on the case. Broadly rectangular, every edge is faceted, elevating its visual appeal while transitioning between finishing techniques. Following a flat step, the sloping brushed bezel rises from the case body before laying back down to surround the crystal.
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Traditionally, color is reserved for the dial and subtle accents, opting for industry-standard clear crystal options. Instead, the Anemoic Versailles holds an aquamarine-hued crystal protruding from the sterile case, immediately drawing your eye into its every facet. It draws its shape from chandelier crystals found in the ‘Hall of Mirrors’ at the Palace of Versailles, further connecting the design to the iconic locale. Its facets, continuing the bezel’s angles, look to play with light cast through to the heavily faceted dial texture beneath.
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Sheen and depth are on full display on the intricate dial, still offering clean legibility. Through the work of Bedford Dials, what began life as an aluminum blank takes shape through a long, multistep process. Featuring a five-step CNC guilloche pattern, the outer dial flats plunge into its deeper central surface, falling over its defined edges along the way. With a fine vertical brushing, the dial is painted with a clear lacquer base, printed with simple time-telling indicators so as not to disrupt the design, and then clear-coated again, adding subtle dimensionality to its display. Each line precisely matches the crystal and case for a refined look.
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Powering the piece is the rarely seen manually wound La Joux-Perret caliber D101. Beating at 3 Hz, the D101 offers a more than adequate 50 hours of power reserve with a small enough architecture to conform to the case design. A simple two-hand display, the LJP D101 removes the seconds hand entirely compared to its small seconds sibling, the D100. It is a nice inclusion as most brands often opt for more affordable calibers when launching their first piece, sacrificing accuracy and power reserve. Protected by 50 meters of water resistance, it should offer reliable accuracy and peace of mind. No doubt a consideration taken during the design process, I will be curious to see how the manual action feels daily with a squared-off crown operating it.
Set between the 18mm hooded lugs, each Versailles comes paired with a goatskin strap crafted by The Strap Tailor. Tapering from 18mm down to 16mm for comfort, the strap terminates at a signed steel buckle, though we have not seen its final form at this time. The entire design blends angled visuals and draping geometry to create a package for everyday or dress wear while still distinguishing itself as it slides out from under the cuff.
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As mentioned above, these are still the early days before full prototyping, testing, and the ultimate presentation. Needless to say, I have and will continue to follow this project closely as the excitement of a unique watch from a fresh designer is exactly the kind of thing we get most excited about here. Magnus plans to unveil the final product in early July, and although he has no current plans for a full official launch, the community may demand otherwise. With an estimated retail price of $2,400, the Anemoic Versailles is a bold dash out of the gates from a new name you should take note of. This article serves as part one of this story – in July, I will deliver more thoughts on the watch with some additional live photography after a hands-on period. Stay tuned for more, and please leave feedback for Magnus in our comments section as he continues to craft his story. Anemoic
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